V band comparo...

Chuck Leeper

Toxic old bastard
Staff member
Joined
May 28, 2001
Am starting a LSX turbo hot side project. I am making 2 sets of pipes w/ t4 and t6 flanges, 2.5" SS pipe, and the truck exh manifolds. [Tube headers are next.]
I bought some 2.5" v bands off the Bag.. A company called "E Motors", in Indy.
Not impressed with them, except the price. [About $17.00 Ea.] [SS]
So, I then got the same sized parts from a well advertized company, OBX. Also, on the Bag. $44.00 each. [SS]
Quality appears to be good, but the same problems exsist with them. The pipe does not go thru the flange, and it sits in a very shallow counter bore.. [IMO, this will put alot of stress on the welds]. The E Motor pieces were so far under sized that I had to bore them out, so I could overlap the pipe a bit to help w/ assy alignment. [The OBX has a small groove/ridge to help w/ alignment.]
The clamps look to be pretty much identical. Both have that stupid plastic lock nut on them...Will last about 1 engine heat cycle.

Bottom line, I don't see nearly 3X the cost for the difference in quality...

Just like FOX News... We report, you decide.:D
 
I'll add a couple more. I've been having a hard time finding some I like also, but I think I've found them. I like the v-bands to be one diameter all the way through so I can pass the tube through the first flange and use it to locate the second flange. I also prefer to use mild steel v-bands on stainless headers because they warp much less. The first thing I do with any of these clamps is throw away the stainless locknut and put a plated steel nut on it. Stainless nuts on stainless bolts in a high heat situation is just asking for galled threads. They are guaranteed to gall up and break the bolt.

On the left is a 2.5" stainless v-band assembly from Race Parts Solutions. They run about $60 for the set. Probably USA made.
On the right is a 2" mild steel assembly from siliconeintakes.com and they come in at around $25 a set. No doubt made in China.
The RPS flanges have a step in the ID for the tube and a machined locating band to locate the the two flanges together.
The silicone intakes flanges are straight through like I like.
CIMG1111.jpg

CIMG1117.jpg

The RPS flanges are have no angle to the outside face of the flanges and it's hard as heck to get the clamp started. I'm not sure what they were thinking here, but it's not the proper setup.
The silicone intakes flanges fit perfectly in the clamp.
CIMG1116.jpg


If I could get american made versions of the silicone intakes flanges with nicer machining I think they would be perfect.
 
Nice pics! :D
The OBX flanges may go in the lathe and get some added counterbore. [Or, get sent back].
Do the siliconeintake pieces slide over the tube without additional machining? [I like the ability to slide the tube thru for alignment. It's a better idea than what the OBX pieces do with the little ridge...
 
Yes, they slide right over as long as the tube is round. I've been using bends from columbia river mandrel bending and sometimes there stuff is a little oval shaped and won't slide through without some manhandling.
 
so thru all this,you would choose the China made over the SS..thats until a better part comes along..
 
Yes, they slide right over as long as the tube is round. I've been using bends from columbia river mandrel bending and sometimes there stuff is a little oval shaped and won't slide through without some manhandling.

I've been looking at thier stuff...Seems like they have a significant price advantage over some other sources. I'm wondering if the quality, [or lack of], is why.:confused:
 
I've only used 304 stainless from Columbia River and 321 from SPD. SPD's quality is better, but at almost three times the price I'm not sure it's three times better. Unless your fitting skills are top notch, you'll never notice the out of round on the columbia river tube. I'm certain it will make no measureable difference in power.
 
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