Recently got a porter cable DA. I have some spare panels, and I junk DD to practice on. Anyone got some good links. Specifically how to get all those fine scratches out after the wet sand. I tried 1200-1500-2000-2500 on a white panel. It is smooth and shiney, but I can still pick out the micro scratches. Using chem guys v32-v38 products and meguires foam pads.
Wet sand and buff with DA
- Thread starter Steve V
- Start date
I personally like the autogeek forum. Lots of good info and videos!
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/
I wetsand almost everyday. If you start out with 1000-1500 then you'll have to use a rotary to remove all of the sand lines.
Now if you start with a 2500-3000 grit then you can polish out the lines with an orbital with a good compound and pad.
After you compound an area use some alcohol to wipe over the spot. This will show you immediately if you left any lines in the clear.
Automotive paint finishes can be similar and very different. I'd recommend a good quality sand paper too. Some of the cheaper paper are too undefined and aggressive.
Autogeek is great. You can look for some of their videos on YouTube.
Now if you start with a 2500-3000 grit then you can polish out the lines with an orbital with a good compound and pad.
After you compound an area use some alcohol to wipe over the spot. This will show you immediately if you left any lines in the clear.
Automotive paint finishes can be similar and very different. I'd recommend a good quality sand paper too. Some of the cheaper paper are too undefined and aggressive.
Autogeek is great. You can look for some of their videos on YouTube.
TT/Ameasap
The White Blur
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Foam pads won't do it. Need wool on a high speed rotary and some good microfinishing compound. Then get out the foam and foam pad polish. 
Got meguires 3000 grit....chem guys v32-v38...did a small spot last nite with 3k....da will not remove lines...meg 7006 foam pad.
Should i get a more aggresive pad? Or give up on da i am just trying to learn.
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Should i get a more aggresive pad? Or give up on da i am just trying to learn.
Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
TT/Ameasap
The White Blur
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2002
give up on DA... You need to use high speed buffer.
I'm not familiar with the Chem guys products although I've heard good things. Not sure how abrasive the compounds that you're using.
Local auto parts stores like Pep Boys, Advance, AutoZone and even Harbor Freight started carrying Meguiars 105 compound and 205 polish. I highly recommend trying those products back to back when using a rotary or DA.
Local auto parts stores like Pep Boys, Advance, AutoZone and even Harbor Freight started carrying Meguiars 105 compound and 205 polish. I highly recommend trying those products back to back when using a rotary or DA.
Foam pads won't do it. Need wool on a high speed rotary and some good microfinishing compound. Then get out the foam and foam pad polish.
I disagree. I used 2000 to sand out some nibs in my paint and used my more agressive orange pads on my DA, with Megquires, 105, followed by 205, and it worked perfectly. 3000 grit would probably have made the job a little easier even, although it wasn't tough at all.
I would NEVER advise anyone to use a high speed buffer and a wool pad unless they were a highly trained pro!! If I had to get aggressive I could resort to a wool pad on my DA, but that's as nasty as I would get. ESPECIALLY if you're somewhat of a novice!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
A highly trained professional went over my new paint job with a variable speed rotary buffer, and this guy was a pro. I had to go over the entire car after I got it home with my DA and Mequires 205, just to get rid of all the ghosts left by the rotary. Sorry guys but you can have those rotaries. In all my years I have NEVER seen a car that was gone over with a rotary that didn't display all those ugly ghosts out in the sun!!!
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- Joined
- Feb 18, 2006
I been buffing all my life. I buff all types of different surfaces. Not just paint. If you really want to see what a buffer does to the paint get out a angle grinder and a piece of sheet metal. It will mimic and magnify the marks left on paint by a buffer.
Swirl marks can be eliminated with the right foam pad and polish followed by a good coat of carnauba but trying to remove scratches with foam is playing games.
Rick
Swirl marks can be eliminated with the right foam pad and polish followed by a good coat of carnauba but trying to remove scratches with foam is playing games.
Rick
TT/Ameasap
The White Blur
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2002
Mikes86Ttop......If you want to rate my post as dumb. Grow a hair and Chime in buddy.
For someone experienced like yourself it's likely easy, but..... depends on what type of scratches you're talking about. If you're talking about spiderwebs and the like that you see on most cars, caused by lots of washing with dirty mits, or dusting with the wrong type of rags, etc, that stuff can easily be removed with DA and foam pads. Deeper actual scratches, then yes, that takes some special skills and equipment.
Most of us though are just trying to revive a tired paint system like spider web type scratches as mentioned above, or remove the ghosts left by orbital buffers that seem to be left by "most" detailers. Notice I said most not all.
I don't fall in that category, I am looking to wet sand and buff. I have grown tired of waiting on the pros, and I can learn anything with enough practice and my labor is free. I have no plans of touching my GN with paper as it was sand with 3k after the repaint and recleared with 3 more coats of clear.For someone experienced like yourself it's likely easy, but..... depends on what type of scratches you're talking about. If you're talking about spiderwebs and the like that you see on most cars, caused by lots of washing with dirty mits, or dusting with the wrong type of rags, etc, that stuff can easily be removed with DA and foam pads. Deeper actual scratches, then yes, that takes some special skills and equipment.
Most of us though are just trying to revive a tired paint system like spider web type scratches as mentioned above, or remove the ghosts left by orbital buffers that seem to be left by "most" detailers. Notice I said most not all.
I got some aggressive pads from auto geek. With the chem guys v32 it will not remove scratches. I will get some Meguires 105 205 and give that a shot then I may have to buy a buffer. I may add I am practicing on a freshly painted white pearl fendar off my Monte that got cracked up
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2006
This stuff works. Usually available at Sherwin Williams. http://products3.3m.com/catalog/sec...e_us_oc_aad_3_0/command_OCHandler/output_html
Get a variable speed dewalt buffer and a nice wool pad and go to work!
Just stay away from and edges. May even want to tape them off.
Good luck!
Rick
Get a variable speed dewalt buffer and a nice wool pad and go to work!
Just stay away from and edges. May even want to tape them off.
Good luck!
Rick
