what are the best internal upgrades for low 11s

[510TURBO]

+1

Then you should be building for 10's and de-tuning for 11's...less stress on the car.

thats exactly what im going to do:biggrin:

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

TRWs (I forget who owns them now) are okay and you dont have to rebalance if you use the heavy pins they include.

I guess it all depends on how hard you intend to beat the crap out of it. If you want SAFE, steel crank, rods and pistons with a girdle and caps is the way to go.

If youre going to be reasonable about it, you can do it with stock internals. Ive seen lots of cars run deep into the 10s with stock internals.

You need pistons for an 11 second build? Huh? And caps AND girdle? He said 11 second build lol.

Bro, forged pistons will still crack if your tune isn't right. Bisons and grumpys factory pistons have done all SORTS of silly things. It was because their tune was right. I beat that subject up this summer, before I bought my go fast parts. I asked if I needed forged pistons and rods, and was told, many times, by lots of people here, that you RARELY, if EVER see destroyed stock rods. It's usually the crank or pistons. Then I asked, "whats the best pistons out there?" The response was "It doesn't matter. If your tune is off, you'll break those too." So I just did the forged crank and girdle.
Ill just go way out of my way, to ensure my tune is conservative, and slowly build up from there. I'm going for the same goal. A reliable 11 second street car.

 

[Eticket]

Ported iron heads, maybe some pistons but not necessary if youre not going to beat the crap out of it. Roller cam and a ported intake. That should do it for internals.

It's funny how you can figure out who the oldtimers are on this board.

+1 for Jay's original suggestion.

TRW's are good pistons in themselves. Yes, not as good as others for "race" applications, but probably are some of the tougher pistons out there.

By the way.. Reaction time and ET have nothing to do with each other.

 

[forcefed3.8's]

Stock pistons will crack under power. It is just a matter of time. A clean tune will last longer for sure, but it will still happen. At low 11's, probably safe. The stock rods in a turbo aren't subjected to as much force as a NA car, as they are under pressure and aren't "flapping" around. A stock bottom end is fine for low 11's assuming a clean tune, but a built bottom end will blow with detonation running 12's. I ran 125mph+ for 3 years with a stock 80,000 mile short block, and it is still together, going to run again this summer.

 

[bison]

For low 11's the only part id do is the heads. I wouldnt even bother with the cam unless spending $800 for a roller setup was in the budget. Stock bottom end will take it for years if was never detonated. Tuning and traction will go a long way.

 

[2QUICK2B6]

I went abt 3 yrs in the mid 11's stock block ... got tired of 11's

 

[Ed Valvo]

LOL, I got tired of mid 11's too. Been running mid 11's for like 5-6 years. Probably longer. I finally got so used to it, it felt slow. BTW, hundreds of 11 second passes on my 104K stock bottom end. Stay safe on the tune and they last a long time. Tons of great advice on this thread. Can't go wrong with any of them. Rell was nice enough to offer a ride. I'd jump all over that.

 

[it's just a six]

For a coulpe hundred more JE and diamond are the way to go, unless you want a heavy slug piston (TRW) less wieght means faster RPM

More inportant,,,lighter piston= easier on the rods & the rest of the rotationg assy.

 

[510TURBO]

ed

my friend is shane who raced you up in sac., so i know what a 11 sec. car should feel like. RELL87 i still might take you up on that.

 

[Ed Valvo]

If you hit your goal of low 11's, you'll want more. If you just want to run low 11's, I'd just slap a top end on it and work on the suspension. I give the stock bottom ends a lot of credit as long as you don't shoot deep into the 10's with them. This should net you low 11's without crazy boost. That's what I have right now and I'm running low timing and 100 octane unleaded fuel. No leaded race gas. Not yet anyway...

Here is the run of Shane and I. I'd like a rematch

YouTube - Karadimos's Channel

 

[L8TRH8R]

Sorry to poach...... BUT..... how fast can one go SAFELY with a stock crank????????

 

[jsbuickpower]

remeber if you go with heaveir pistons its going to but more inershae load on the connecting rods and crank

 

[jsbuickpower]

More inportant,,,lighter piston= easier on the rods & the rest of the rotationg assy.

sh@t you beat me to it thats what i said didnt notice you said that already

 

[AlwaysWaven]

can 11s be run without opening the engine?

 

[blackmonte]

yes

 

[Grumpy]

can 11s be run without opening the engine?

yup and also be very dependable !! ... BUT as we have all said .. watch the detonation !!

 

[AlwaysWaven]

yup and also be very dependable !! ... BUT as we have all said .. watch the detonation !!

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/engine-tech/309223-11s-without-opening-engine.html :biggrin:

 

[Pronto]

can 11s be run without opening the engine?

Yes, with supporting mods it's very possible. Like Dan said, no dentonation or you won't be doing it more than once.:wink:

 

[turbo39151]

Hey 510: I read that you had something like $4k in parts... Now take that and add all of the machine work and all the little details that you will have to get in to. Once you start and are inside the engine, a few hundred bucks for this upgrade and few hundred bucks for that upgrade will start to add up... This is a bad addiction and is not cheap but, if you're already there might as well do it all right the first time.

I've gone through the same ordeal and as far as I'm concerned this is a one time deal so I'm going to do it right the first time...

BTW, don't forget that once you build a stout engine, you have to fortify the weak links like your trans, rear, etc...

Good Luck