What Fuel Pressure?

[QUIP'6']

Shortening the rod will raise boost.

A good starting point is to turn it out (lengthen it) to the point where it will 'almost' slip on to the arm, and will need to be pulled approx 1/8" to put on. That should lower boost enough to be safe for testing.

dont know what i was thinking DAH!!!!

 

[yullose]

dont know what i was thinking DAH!!!!

I figured it was just a typo.

 

[TurboMonte 2]

I figured it was just a typo.

I guess I missed something, I never saw where Paul indicated to shorten rod... all I ever saw was a proper reference to lengthen rod to lower boost??

I'm unfamiliar with the OTC scanner--but if it indicated degrees knock retard, O2 counts, it should be OK for starters. If not, then I'll stick with my SM 2.1 recommendation.

 

[rosadod]

Ok here's some pics of the rod on my car. It's held on to the turbo by a alligator clip. So, do I just take the end off the turbo and turn it 3 times counter clockwise to lengthen it and lower the boost? Should be easy enough! What's that nut on the rod for? Anyways, after I do this, how do I test to verify the boost level? I have an auto meter boost gauge... just a little clueless

 

[yullose]

I guess I missed something, I never saw where Paul indicated to shorten rod... all I ever saw was a proper reference to lengthen rod to lower boost??

If you would have read it yesterday before he edited it, you would have seen it.

 

[yullose]

Ok here's some pics of the rod on my car. It's held on to the turbo by a alligator clip. So, do I just take the end off the turbo and turn it 3 times counter clockwise to lengthen it and lower the boost? Should be easy enough! What's that nut on the rod for? Anyways, after I do this, how do I test to verify the boost level? I have an auto meter boost gauge... just a little clueless

The nut on the rod is a locknut. Making the rod longer will lower boost.

The only way to verify boost levels is to go out on the road and beat the snot out of it.

The alligator clip is bizzare... as I've seen that on two other cars. You can replace it with the same clip that keeps your throttle & cruise control cable on the throttle body.

You also might want to ditch the restrictive Fram oil filter and replace it with an AC Delco PF52.

 

[QUIP'6']

Ok here's some pics of the rod on my car. It's held on to the turbo by a alligator clip. So, do I just take the end off the turbo and turn it 3 times counter clockwise to lengthen it and lower the boost? Should be easy enough! What's that nut on the rod for? Anyways, after I do this, how do I test to verify the boost level? I have an auto meter boost gauge... just a little clueless

three turns should lower you to 15 or 16 psi just get in your car and ease in to the gas and watch the autometer boost gauge and see what is says. should be 15 or 16. you should also invest in a scanmaster and audible knock sensor so you can see if your knocking and hear if your knocking

 

[rosadod]

three turns should lower you to 15 or 16 psi just get in your car and ease in to the gas and watch the autometer boost gauge and see what is says. should be 15 or 16. you should also invest in a scanmaster and audible knock sensor so you can see if your knocking and hear if your knocking

Can I test it in Park?

 

[QUIP'6']

Can I test it in Park?

NO!!!! CANT BUILD BOOST IN PARK

 

[rosadod]

NO!!!! CANT BUILD BOOST IN PARK

Gotcha!

 

[gnx139]

Not a bad idea as a safety precaution to run some high octane fuel in her while your testing it out. This will help suppress detonation while you are tuning her. Or put in 2 or 3 gallons of Xylene mixed with 93 pump gas. This too will bring up your octane to around 97-98.

 

[TurboMonte 2]

Yes, back it off (lengthen) by 3-4 turns, gently jam the lock nut against business-end at turbo, replace baby alligator clip, start engine, place in D, assure clear distance ahead, then press the little pedal on the right to the floor until max boost is observed. If over 16#, then back off two more turns & repeat.

If max boost (under load of course) 14-15#, then leave it alone until SM 2.1 or other form of knock detector/ gauge installed. GOOD LUCK! (& report back).

Of course, you will have already reduced the FP to the oft-repeated 43#--vac line off/ plugged,,,

 

[rosadod]

Yes, back it off (lengthen) by 3-4 turns, gently jam the lock nut against business-end at turbo, replace baby alligator clip, start engine, place in D, assure clear distance ahead, then press the little pedal on the right to the floor until max boost is observed. If over 16#, then back off two more turns & repeat.

Done. After I extended the rod (3 turns), it was a little difficult getting the end of it back on the turbo... I guess cause its longer now... Anyways, I won't have a chance to test it out until sometime during the week.

 

[TurboMonte 2]

Done. After I extended the rod (3 turns), it was a little difficult getting the end of it back on the turbo... I guess cause its longer now... Anyways, I won't have a chance to test it out until sometime during the week.

Actually, lengthening the rod should make it EASIER to get the rod back on the turbo puck--less distance to pull against waste gate controller spring.

 

[rosadod]

Actually, lengthening the rod should make it EASIER to get the rod back on the turbo puck--less distance to pull against waste gate controller spring.

Monte, I only removed the one end of the rod and turned it so it got longer... I don't see how that would make it easier. What is the other end of the rod going into? Maybe I screwed up

 

[QUIP'6']

Monte, I only removed the one end of the rod and turned it so it got longer... I don't see how that would make it easier. What is the other end of the rod going into? Maybe I screwed up

that is the wastegate diaphram just turn the outer rod half!!!!! is there any guys that live by you that have turbo regals that can give you a hand tuning this car

 

[rosadod]

that is the wastegate diaphram just turn the outer rod half!!!!! is there any guys that live by you that have turbo regals that can give you a hand tuning this car

Thanks... I'll do that. Once I get out of my retard stages I should be fine.

 

[rosadod]

that is the wastegate diaphram just turn the outer rod half!!!!! is there any guys that live by you that have turbo regals that can give you a hand tuning this car

Went back and checked and it and all I was turning was the outer half held on with my alligator clip. The way I see it, there is a certain distance between the wastegate diaphram and where the rod connects to the turbo. Unless these parts move, how can you lengthen or shorten the rod and still have it fit right? Maybe I'm missing somethning

 

[Kevin87TurboT]

If you screwed the outer part 3 turns CC relative to the shaft, then you effectively lengthened the rod. That should reduce the boost by approximately 3 pounds. I'd start off around 16 pounds of boost and go from there. Your chip is fairly conservative on the timing. If it where my car, I'd spend around $700 to get an Alky Control alcohol kit and a TurboTweak alky chip. It will be the best bang for the buck that you can spend on your Buick. With the alky installed, you can safely run 23-24 lbs of boost and leave it set there. Good Luck and Welcome to the world of Turbo Buicks!

 

[TurboMonte 2]

Turbo pressure goes to diaphragm (opposite the adj rod) on waste gate controller & higher pressure moves the diaphragm/spring/rod, opening the waste gate to relieve turbo pressure. The longer the rod, the more the pressure release, hence lesser boost attained (more escapes via waste gate opening).

Just do-it!--& please refer to earlier posts & get back to us after your tests with the little pedal on the right,,,