what is a ground wire?

[BlackBettie6]

hey i need some help...:biggrin:

87 TB, t-tops,rot, daily driver,42.5FI,turbonetics turbo, maf translater,LT1MAF,AFPR,307 pump,3"DP, ect ect

leaks oil...obviously :wink:

oil +starter+daily driver= new starter

while i was in the area i moved the pass side head grounds to the intake, under the coil bracket, stacked and clean, then ran direct bat grnd to intake via 14ga wire, replaced - bat cable...

after a drive, code 13, switched sensor with spare one(AC), same shyt..

anyone got any advice that doesnt involve a lighter or a rag?

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when i bought the car i asked if it was # matching he said "no, it was a cotton built engine" out of that other *hard top* GN..

well at the time i didnt know what the hell a "cotton built" engine was but i soon found out the first time i did any kind of reasearch on GNs lol

is there any way to know this is true or BS?

thanks-kyle

 

[turbofabricator]

It might be possible that you broke a ground wire common to one of the cylinder head ground wires. Is this the first time this happened? (code 13) If so, then it seems that you missed or broke one ground wire. This is pretty common thing to do when moving the grounds to the back of the manifold. Did you sand/file the top of the boss to remove all the factory epoxy paint? I would also suggest a 10ga aux. ground wire from the bottom turbo bracket to the new location for your grounds. Look carefully at all the ground lugs and make sure you haven't broke a few strands or more. Grounds are one of the biggest problems on these cars. You took the right step, now just verify that you got all of them. There are two bolts on the back of the passenger cylinder head for all the grounds. (not just one) Good luck.

 

[mikestertwo]

while i was in the area i moved the pass side head grounds to the intake, under the coil bracket, stacked and clean, then ran direct bat grnd to intake via 14ga wire, replaced - bat cable...

after a drive, code 13, switched sensor with spare one(AC), same shyt..

anyone got any advice that doesnt involve a lighter or a rag?

thanks-kyle

Start by removing the direct bat grnd wire you added on the intake. Those grounds you moved are sensor return lines that go back to the computer not the battery. You may have caused a ground loop which offsets the signals going to the computer. If you still have the problem move the grounds back to the head. You may have a bad or broken connection when you moved the grounds to the manifold. The O2 sensor is sensitive to ground currents.

 

[BlackBettie6]

ken, i never got a code 13 before i moved the grounds and added new neg cable. (my old neg cable ohm`d fine in place but when i had my brother wiggle it around i got as high as 3.24ohm) ... yeah i used a dremel to remove paint..and safty glasses!! lol . i dnno i replaced 2 bad gnd wires and inspected the others good (total of 5 rings stacked)

i read/heard that these gnds require direct bat-, yeah mike i thought it was that wire i ran but it aint lol i checked on/off intake/head. man this car needs a new harness baddddd lol

thanks for the help gents

 

[BlackBettie6]

ride number 2.... i had my high beams on and im in the driveway for about 10min playin with stuff and my high beams flicker on/off/on ..eraticly i no itis no the old a$$ viper alarm beacause i pulled it out..... lol pulled it out lol.. anyway first short i can think of is fan delay relay, reasearched stuff, pulled relay , and went for a ride.

i got to the gas station and its in open loop and i have my milivolts back and and no SES light...code still in memory though via SM....

not that im complaining but how was that connected to my o2 AND headlight? i would think the engine has the stronger -..?

what should i do? gut relay and use man. switch? not worries about pretty :biggrin:

 

[JST A 6]

ride number 2.... i had my high beams on and im in the driveway for about 10min playin with stuff and my high beams flicker on/off/on ..eraticly i no itis no the old a$$ viper alarm beacause i pulled it out..... lol pulled it out lol.. anyway first short i can think of is fan delay relay, reasearched stuff, pulled relay , and went for a ride.

i got to the gas station and its in open loop and i have my milivolts back and and no SES light...code still in memory though via SM....

not that im complaining but how was that connected to my o2 AND headlight? i would think the engine has the stronger -..?

what should i do? gut relay and use man. switch? not worries about pretty :biggrin:

You don't need the relay at all. The fan will still operate normally; it just won't run after you turn your key off. I never understood the logic behind that too much anyway...