won't idle when warm

[eman035]

85 t-type, won't idle when it warms up. rebuilt motor and turbo. It seems that once the car goes into closed loop it won't idle and stalls. If I can get the rpm's up it will run fine and accelerates fine. Could it be my O2 sensor? No service engine light and no scan tool yet but it's on its way. Just bought one on e-bay. I don't want to wait for it to get here though. I think i'm going to replace the O2 sensor but I want to know if anybody else has had this problem and if this could be the culprit. Thanks in advance for any info on this.

Eric

 

[UWE LEHMANN]

Originally posted by eman035
85 t-type, won't idle when it warms up. rebuilt motor and turbo. It seems that once the car goes into closed loop it won't idle and stalls. If I can get the rpm's up it will run fine and accelerates fine. Could it be my O2 sensor? No service engine light and no scan tool yet but it's on its way. Just bought one on e-bay. I don't want to wait for it to get here though. I think i'm going to replace the O2 sensor but I want to know if anybody else has had this problem and if this could be the culprit. Thanks in advance for any info on this.

Eric

1 please post mods
2 check all grounds and check for corrosion on ecm plug
3 check for vacume leak
4 make sure that you have good connections on all plugs

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=33080
Good luck

if not tow to my shop and i will fix it
Uwe

 

[eman035]

mods should be in my signature now. and its not the O2 sensor, changed it last night and still have the same problem. Plug wires are old so I will change them also and I will spray some throttle body cleaner around the engine to see if I have any vacuum leaks. Also, where is the ECM plug? and what do I need to check it for? And lastly what grounds are there to check other than the main one from the battery. Thanks again for any help, I am new to this so thanks for being patient.

Eric

 

[UWE LEHMANN]

Check for grounds under a/c should be 3 all together through 1 bolt that is where your neg battery connects ,then in back of driver side cylynder head , then from firewall to driver side cyllnder head, Ecm is located in the pass side kick panel or unless someone moved it . unplug ecm both connections and make sure they are clean (no corrosion) and go through your basics , What scan tool are you using???
Uwe

 

[eman035]

scan tool is an OTC Monitor 85, and should be here either today or tommorow. I didn't find any vacuum leaks and I replaced some vacuum hoses that looked like they were on their way out. Also, I will check the grounds and the ECM plugs tonight. Thanks for the help.

Eric

 

[xxninja]

when you get you scantool

first thing i would look at would be your Idle AIr COntroller.
(IAC) and your TPS sensor

see what those are set on, they could be out of whack since it seems like you just recently acquired the car.
Those 2 sensors are key to making your car idle smoothly.

start the car up and get your TPS reading
It should be between .40 and .44 to be safe
if your values are higher or lower then those values, it will tell the ecm, that the car is not in Idle.

WHen getting your IAc values, make sure your car is at Operating temps (150 degrees)
Put your foot on the brake and put the car in gear, hold it there for 30 seconds becuz the values will drop until they stay at a certain value.
that value will be your Iac reading
that should be between 20-50 I'd say

Let us know whutcha find out when you get those 2 readings.

 

[cool 84]

Also check your coolant temp sensor when you get the scantool. Make sure it's reading correctly or at least close.

The engine needs more air and fuel when it's cold so it's probably not the IAC.

 

[eman035]

Ok, I got some numbers.
TPS - 0.50 idle
IAC - 103 in gear
O2 - all over from 0.10 - 0.80 bounces throughout
cross counts - low, avg. 1 - 4
block learn - 113, integrator - bounces from 122-134
MAF - 7-8, LV - 38
KR - all over. sometimes at 0, went to 10, then in gear jumped to
69, never consistent.

Now I adjusted the TPS to 0.38 at idle, but it didn't make much of a difference anywhere else. I checked the ECM connections everything looks fine. Anyone got any ideas on what to do now? Thanks again for the help.

Eric

 

[typhoon]

KR - all over. sometimes at 0, went to 10, then in gear jumped to

This is odd. Shouldn't be moving that much idling.

Anything loose on engine, banging, etc.

 

[eman035]

Nothing is loose that I can see, nor can I hear anything rattling or banging. The only noise I hear is the engine running like crap. Not sure if everyone reading this know's how bad it is running. It barley idle's when in park and stalls alot. And when I put it in gear it stalls right away. Sometimes it will idle for a little bit while in drive, but it is definately not driveable. Where is the Knock Sensor? and could it be bad or can I check it for something? Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

Eric

 

[UWE LEHMANN]

Originally posted by eman035
Nothing is loose that I can see, nor can I hear anything rattling or banging. The only noise I hear is the engine running like crap. Not sure if everyone reading this know's how bad it is running. It barley idle's when in park and stalls alot. And when I put it in gear it stalls right away. Sometimes it will idle for a little bit while in drive, but it is definately not driveable. Where is the Knock Sensor? and could it be bad or can I check it for something? Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

Eric

Eric
email me your phone #
Uwe

 

[SLOW_85]

A Few things to check

MAF good -- unplug idle better?
Injector harness plugged all the way in?
vacuum line from FP regulator area to charcoal vapor cannister leaking?
vacuum block on TB, front passenger side,first port- passenger side blocked off?
Crank Sensor adjusted right?
Check battery voltage output?
Just a few ideas.
HTH