I checked the cam sensor. It does not spin freely when I tried to rotate it by hand either way. It spins when the engine is cranked.
Wrapping up my Alky and gauges install.....one question
- Thread starter pgoffner
- Start date
I checked the cam sensor. It does not spin freely when I tried to rotate it by hand either way. It spins when the engine is cranked.
When you lifte the coil pack off of the ignition module.. Was the ignition module solid or oozing? If it was solid more than likely its ok. Once they start going bad the epoxy gel its incased in starts to breakdown and get real sticky/ooze.
Your cam sensor is only used for starting.. if it were loose.. you would have starting problems hot or cold.
Wonder if the ecm is the culprit. Go in the parts for sale see if anyone has an OEM one used for sale.
And its probably a good time to by AAA
until you have its demon exorcised.
On a side note, was the thermostat replaced. Typically most chips are burned for 160 stats . If yours is a 180 fans turning off/on are messed up. But this has nothing to do with your problem.
Your cam sensor is only used for starting.. if it were loose.. you would have starting problems hot or cold.
Wonder if the ecm is the culprit. Go in the parts for sale see if anyone has an OEM one used for sale.
And its probably a good time to by AAA
until you have its demon exorcised.On a side note, was the thermostat replaced. Typically most chips are burned for 160 stats . If yours is a 180 fans turning off/on are messed up. But this has nothing to do with your problem.
When you lifte the coil pack off of the ignition module.. Was the ignition module solid or oozing? If it was solid more than likely its ok. Once they start going bad the epoxy gel its incased in starts to breakdown and get real sticky/ooze.
When I lifted the coil pack the gel on the module was not oozing but it wasnt super solid either. The gel was soft to the touch and there were indentations left from the wires that are going to the coil pack...is this normal?
Your cam sensor is only used for starting.. if it were loose.. you would have starting problems hot or cold.
Ok
Wonder if the ecm is the culprit. Go in the parts for sale see if anyone has an OEM one used for sale.
I'll try and get hold of one to swap out
And its probably a good time to by AAA
Lol..already have them. I'm sure they'll be getting tired of me....
On a side note, was the thermostat replaced. Typically most chips are burned for 160 stats . If yours is a 180 fans turning off/on are messed up. But this has nothing to do with your problem.
Ok, I'll look into to this as well. Thanks for the heads up.
I'm going to attempt to get hold of a Delco ignition module today and go from there. I'll post back when I find out more.
On a more positive note, I really like how the gauge install came out with the turn-on led next to the boost gauge. I cant wait to get all these bugs worked out so I can start enjoying the car. Since I've owned the car there has been one thing after another.
Swapped modules today...car stopped on me again:frown: Had to push it home...not pretty:frown:
I'm stumped as to what the problem is. The car idled and ran fine going around my block a few times. Then on the last time around the block it pooped out on me again. Car started again after we pushed it home but it set code 42
I'm stumped as to what the problem is. The car idled and ran fine going around my block a few times. Then on the last time around the block it pooped out on me again. Car started again after we pushed it home but it set code 42
Yeah...going to swap it out today with a buddy's ECM to see if that helps. I was also thinking about trying an new ESC module.
I dont think the esc module has anything to do with your issue.
If i'm correct, you can unplug it and the car runs normally cept for the code 42.
Its not a necessary sensor for engine operation.. under normal conditions.
Someone correct me if i'm wrong.
If i'm correct, you can unplug it and the car runs normally cept for the code 42.
Its not a necessary sensor for engine operation.. under normal conditions.
Someone correct me if i'm wrong.
Just throwing this out there because nobody else did yet (probably cause it's wrong), but if the alky system has a test button like my old SMC unit did, be sure it's installed right. My button on the SMC somehow made a connection and stayed on and loaded the motor with alky at low rpm. Had to reinstall the switch. I don't even know if your alky system has a test butting like that, but it's something to ponder.
Guess you were right. Swapped ESC modules and car idled for about 8 min and died. Wouldnt fire back up. So I swapped ECM's.....still nothing, car wouldnt fire back up.
Going to try that tommorow. Keeping my fingers crossed though. I'll post up the results. Thanks Razor.
Swapped out the cam sensor cap and crank sensor today....problem disappeared...I hope. Put new plugs in it and went for a drive over to VP station to order some M1 methanol. No issues and the car felt good. Made it back home, no issues. This was about a 10 mile drive round trip so I'm still not sure but its looking good
I wired my Alky system back up and installed my adjustable actuator now I just have to wait for the M1 to fill the Alky tank. My TT Alky chip and DLS
3.5" downpipe showed up today as well now I'm just waiting on my exhaust and cold air kit. Today was a good day I must say
Thanks for all the help guys. I'll be sure to post back if the problem returns.
Put new plugs in it and went for a drive over to VP station to order some M1 methanol. No issues and the car felt good. Made it back home, no issues. This was about a 10 mile drive round trip so I'm still not sure but its looking good I wired my Alky system back up and installed my adjustable actuator now I just have to wait for the M1 to fill the Alky tank. My TT Alky chip and DLS
3.5" downpipe showed up today as well now I'm just waiting on my exhaust and cold air kit. Today was a good day I must say
Thanks for all the help guys. I'll be sure to post back if the problem returns.
If you have 84 electronics.. then I cant help. If you have 86/87 electronics.. then having a scanmaster and a known chip like from Eric, FTS, Red, etc we can start diagnosing whats going on.
