XFI, rough idle, no A/F, no TPS

Wel I think I found my high idle problem. This AccuFab 70MM throttle body does not close all the way. I adjust the idle screw back as far as I can and it doesnt change RPM's. I'm going to have to get ahold of Mike at FullThrottle and see what he can do for me. This thing is brand new, has anyone else had these problems with this TB or is this normal for it to not close all the way? Seems to me it should be able to be completely closed.


Cal, I am going to need to give you a call and have you walk me through a couple things to make sure I have the timing correct in each area. When is the best time to contact you? I have tried a few different times of the day but I just get your voicemail. Before I take it out on the road, I want to be sure the timing is correct. As far as I can tell and Dr. Boost can tell, its correct.
 
I was in Gainesville this week. Call me tomorrow afternoon before 5:00. After that I will be in Ohio for the weekend.
 
I was in Gainesville this week. Call me tomorrow afternoon before 5:00. After that I will be in Ohio for the weekend.

OK sounds good, I get off at 3:30 so I will call as soon as I get home! Thanks, you are the MAN!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Just go to the throttle follower table and raise the green line up at 0 TPS. if the idle goes up, it's working

OK, well I thought I had a bad Accufab throttle body so I wanted to wait to call you while I borrowed a buddies to see if that would help. After getting the IC pipe and flipping the throttle a couple times and then flipping the borrowed throttle blade a couple times, all seemed good with my TB. It's will stick a little while closed but no more than the borrowed one.

Soooo, I decided, what the heck, I'm going to swap out the IAC and see what happens. Well, the car idles at exactly 1000RPMS now. I did check the IAC in the Throttle Follower and it did raise when I raised the IAC at 0 TPS but for some reason the new IAC motor smoothed it out. Kind of odd?

Anyways, I'm happy to say I burned my first tank of E85!!! Funny thing is I didnt even have a chance to get the car out of the garage!

Anyways, Cal, now that I got the throttle figured out, I am going to call you if I can get out of work early enough. I am guessing I will be out early tomorrow because it is supposed to rain. I just want to make sure I have the timing correct and double check a few other things while I have you on the phone.

THANK YOU GUYS VERY MUCH! IT MEANS A LOT TO ME! This has been a huge long term and expensive project but hopefully I will get a chance to enjoy the car soon! -------Jeremy
 
UPDATE!!!!!

OK, well I'm sad to say that I am still jacking with this freaking car. I have updated to the 2.0 now and I am now having the same problems as I had when I initially made this post. I still have problems with the TPS faults. Talked with Cal and he said to watch the RAW MAP readings becuase these are intertwined with each other. When the TPS goes red, the MAP is still fine. Regular voltage readings on the MAP are around .70-.80 but I think Cal told me they should be around 1.6 while I had him on the phone?

I cant get the car to run for crap at any load besides one small range so after reading this post, it looks like I re-set the timing in the program. Should I be re-setting this in the new 2.0? I sent Cal the start up program he initially sent me so he can re-configure it to the 2.0 set up. I'm thinking it's going to have to be re-set.

I also get a CAM sync error code every once in a while. Once the car is shut off and re-started, this clears. Should I be re-adjusting my cam sensor?
 
Yes adjust the sensor, you should be seeing 95 BTDC on the fast logging parameter. The tps and other sensors share the same ground return, path in the buick harness, spliced in the harness oval conduit near the knock sensor, if this point is bad this would cause your demise. Your getting cam sync errors since the time is too close to the crank signal.
 
I adjusted the crank from 6 to 12.75 like I had before. I did notice something odd while watching the RAW MAP and RAW TPS. The raw map is at 1.53 with the car off but once I start it, the raw goes to .70. I also watched the TPS go from .59 and slowly dropped to .12 but once I hit the gas pedal, it bounced right back to .59 and stayed there. Took the car up the road and TPS faulted right away and stayed at 0.00 in the red until I stopped, turned the car off and hit the gas pedal a few more times.

So, I thought the same thing...check grounds. The ground for the TPS and MAP both go behind the motor by the knock.....ok gotcha! Is there another ground point over by the alternator??
 
This thread started back in early 2009...... you work about as fast as I do :)


Yeah I've had nothing but troubles with all this high dollar garbage for this car. 3 Ford 9" rear ends that nobody could get right, 3 different set of brakes because people were just selling me sh*t instead of measuring for clearences like I asked them too, trans went in and out 6 times just trying to get the billet output shaft right. One ruined Denny Nitrous Ready driveshaft becuase of the two bad output shafts I was sent, one detroyed billet 9/11 converter that had less then 60 miles on it and somehow went bad the same time the output shaft walked out of my trans. It's been a nightmare to say the least.
 
sensor grounds copy.JPG
No other grounds at the alternator, on the back of the pass side head, but the tps ground is splcied then goes back to ecu. See diagram, but if the ECU grounds at the heads are bad then the ecu has a bad ground..But the caspers jumper has a heavy ground it should be grounded also. See diagram.
 
That is a very helpful daigram! I'm also glad to know that the TPS is only grounded by the ECM. Thats a nice piece of info to help diagnose in the future!

Thank you for the good info! Cal has been on the phone with me 100 times now too and I cant thank him enough for that.

I need to get this harness figured out and find my problem. Once I get it up and running, it's onto my fuel system and then it'll finally be time to have Cal come up here and get this beast running my 9 second goal!

Keep your fingers crossed for me guys!
 
OK, I got my TPS problem figured out. Found a splice someone made in the harness that was coming apart.

I verified my timing with a timing light. I read that the timing lights tend to double on our cars so I set the timing in the XFI to lock in at 30, set the timing light to 60, and the mark on my BHJ was at 12deg so I set the crank referrence to 12 and the line is on the 0 mark.

Now the main problem I'm having is with my new 2.0 XFI, I cant get the car to run over 2000 RPM. Actual A/F drops to 5 or so and the car sputters. It idles rough between 900 and 1300 RPM. It also runs rough bouncing the RPMs all over the place. I have the self learn on to try to get it to idle and I have also played the VE Table to try to get it to idle but it simply wont smooth out. It wasnt easy to check the timing with the car reving up and down either.

Now the car ran fine with the old tune and the 1.340 set up in the XFI other than some minor surging here and there. I read my posts on this thread to try to find things I changed but I think I have pretty much covered everything.

What should I do next? 6 years of trying to get this car to run has me sick. I dont think I have much fight left in me.
 
AS far as I understand your running E85? WHat a/f fuel ratio is in your fuel table, where do you have the fuel constant set at?
 
Fuel energy constant is at .680

Target A/F is 8.50 (seems really rich??)

Yes......E85
 
No that is pretty lean but should be ok for to run at , its about 12.8 on the gasoline scale. You must have something else going on for it to go to 5 to 1 Did you put in the correct injector offset curve which injector are you using? Whats the ve numbers at where it sputters?
 
Cal sent me the start up file so I would think he would put the right curve in. How do I know for sure if it's right or not? I'm using 150# Bosch injectors. One thing that may be different for the injector offset curve is that the original tune was for 160 pound injectors that Cal reconfigured for the 2.0. Now he new the injectors were 150's and the chart says 150's for injectors.

I did look over at the VE Table when the car sputters and I remember seeing the ball on the number 61. I cant get the car to go past the 2250 RPM mark at all without sputtering though. So, there may be a bunch of numbers off.

What else can I possibly check? I do know that I drove the car on the 1.340 program and was able to run well with it last week, now the only change is the 2.0 software and reconfigured tune. I cant remember what all I changed to the intital start up program I used 3 years ago aside from what I read in this thread.
 
I'm sure Cal put everything right for you, but the 1.34 used a offset calibrated with a generic curve based on a value 13.8 volts about. At low PW and big injectors the new curve is probably more accurate so this is why the ve could be way out, reduce the ve numbers, in open loop until you can get it to run at 8.5 AF instead of 5. Can you get the car to idle and what is the ve at idle? You can look at the voltage curve in the fueling parameters. ALso you may have too much afterstart or cold start enrichment. Here's a post on E85 from yellow bullet it should help you on af ratio.

http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=283787&highlight=tuning+e85
 
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