This. Don't get hung up on the color. That's easy to fix. Get the right shape and a can of adhesion promoter and burgundy paint off Amazon. Scuff it with a scotchbrite pad and shoot it.
Corrosion is a bitch.
The Powermaster was innovative, but not durable. That yours still mostly works is impressive.
The fix is getting rid of it. A Wilwood manual master can provide enough caliper pressure to lock up all four and will never fail if you keep the fluid fresh.
It's way easier to repair them if you go ahead and pull the entire bracket. To get enough room to get drill in there might require pulling the radiator, and that's a whole different set of misery.
It would run like crap and probably not idle at all. It probably won't even start, it'll just flood.
Injector size is a primary component of the math used to time injection and fuel the engine. If it's burned for 42, it will only work with 42s.
Yes. You might have to thread the rear ones out or remove the brake master assembly, but you can get it out and leave most of the studs in the block.
Passenger not so much unless you've removed the HVAC box.
And here's the really fun part:
If you have the pad plate dimensions, you will never be unable to get brake pads. Ever.
At the worst, you can have an outfit like sendcutsend make you a pile of pad plates, and then send them to Hawk or Porterfield or EBC, and they will put friction material on...
This is a bizarre circumstance.
Summit sells me EBC Bluestuff and Yellowstuff for that caliper all day long and six ways to Sunday.
Here's the thing: Wilwood calipers have a pad plate. That's the dimensions of the metal plate the friction material is glued to. That pad plate is standard, and...