Recent content by Turbo6inKY

Recall was on the pressure switch on the top of the PM unit. They'd leak and fail, then the pump wouldn't cycle and boom, no brakes.

I'm with you. If I ran a shop, I'd never use a non-DOT line on a customer car.

The one I linked above is dual pass. All that means is the tubes loop back and forth twice for each row vertically. The OEM was single pass. Almost all of the replacements are dual. It's a more efficient design made possible by more recent manufacturing processes, and it allows you to get the...

Nope. Just assembly method.

That's a bit of technicality. DOT required a certain crimped end that isn't possible with a stainless braided line. That's why they weren't DOT approved. That isn't an excuse to buy cheap lines. But when you start modifying cars, you have to understand why things are the way they are and adjust...

You aren’t. the stock setup will stop the car from any attainable speed at least once. You do not need upgraded rotors and caliper unless you want the bling or you’re doing crazy stuff like I am.

It increases the temp in the combustion chamber which leads to a more complete burn. Not ideal for max power, but it'll be slightly more efficient at cruise.

Short answer, no and not a lot. Longer answer - cold air helps with power because the charge is denser and it reduces knock, which allows you to get away with a tad more timing advance. The denser charge requires more fuel at the same throttle input. Now, you'll just end up using less throttle...

The only must-do, in my not so humble opinion, is to get rid of the Powermaster. Pull it off, set it on the shelf, sell it with the car if you move on later. Then replace it with either a vacuum system or manual. I'm not a fan of hydroboost because it's added complexity and weight. It also is...

I concur. If you're running stock unmodified heads, intake, and upper plenum, you should be running the Power Plate. Period. Even on an otherwise completely stock car. Outside of that combination, you need to test.

Those are they. Word of warning: They will leak eventually. You can take them apart easily enough, clean up the gaskets and put them back together if they leak out of the blocks. But if the axle seal starts leaking, you're off to the machine shop to press off the bearings. Which means...

Measure again. If it's still beyond spec, replace the bolts. Period. The bolts are cheap compared to the big end of a rod coming apart on you. Molnar will sell you individual bolts. Just call them up. They're super nice people.

For maximum performance, yes. They'll work with the stock prop valve, but it limits pressure to the back far more than necessary for disc, and it has a residual pressure function that's normally there to resist the springs in the drum assembly from pulling the shoes off the drum surface that'll...

With the e-brake equipped calipers, the ebrake mechanism can contact the frame if you're lowered. Mine did when I tried those calipers with a similar kit. It'll depend on where the brackets clock the caliper and your springs. I had to swap out to non-ebrake calipers. Wilwood has a nice set...

I just use my arm. It's been pretty reliable so far.