Looking for the answer you want and the answer you need is not the same thing.
That Chevelle as shipped doesn't have nearly as much NVH mitigation as a G-body. The noise might not matter.
But poly bushings will fall apart on you at some point. The poly eventually crumbles. Those delrin raced...
They'll be fine for drag racing. The more important part would be UMI's lower control arm/coil over brackets with the multiple LCA mount holes. Very easy instant center adjustment, and that's what you need.
Posting for posterity. I hope this helps somebody in the future. I just got done troubleshooting and fixing a really frustrating electrical issue.
The car has an ECUGN and I'm using the coil near plug option.
The car has been running great this year until July 13, 2025, at an Indianapolis...
I don't have that exact set, but they are a superior solution to poly in every circumstance as long as you keep up with them. If you street drive it at all, you'll want to keep them clean and periodically disassemble them and get all the trash out. Might want to get spare delrin inserts for them...
The 3.42s are optimal. If your ring and pinion are OK, there's really no compelling reason to swap them.
If your gears are not OK (I chipped a tooth off my ring gear a few years ago), then plugging a set of 3.73s in will get some low end grunt without sacrificing highway driving. Go much lower...
They have it:
Maybe not showing it to you because Canada? Use a VPN to get to the US version of the site and see if they'll let you buy it there and ship it to your house?
Rockauto? That accumulator was used on every GM passenger car from 1977 until 1984. It's not an uncommon part (Unless you're not in the USA).
GM NOS probably not going to be easy to find. Most of that stock would have been run through in the 1990s with people doing R134 conversions. But they...
It's a slippery slope.
Any disc conversion for the rear that doesn't include getting rid of the C-clips will result in a system that's inconsistent. Knockback is real. It can cause a crash.
So, if you're not ready to go all the way to C-clip eliminators or a full floater, keep the drums.
Instead of blindly wasting money on 1000 mile oil changes, send samples to a lab and see if you really need to go that short. If the car is tuned right, you're not gonna get a lot of fuel in the oil, even on E85. I never have fuel or water the oil and I get every change tested.
An afternoon with a set of calipers and a few tutorials on FreeCAD and you can send a file to SendCutSend to make as many plates as you want for pennies.
The high mileage formulations have similar ZDDP concentrations to the oils the engine was designed to run with. If you use those, you don't need the additives.
I'm not sure you mean what you wrote.
Alcohol will drag the temperature of the charge going through the valve by down by 15-30 degrees F more than gasoline. Doesn't matter if you inject it into the up-pipe before the throttle or at the injector. You can't say alcohol injection cools the charge...
Not necessary. The fuel itself provides the cooling the injection of an additional fluid would provide. It's superior to water injection by far, and alky injection just creates a rich condition that's poorly controlled. E85 is alcohol. You have six alky injectors. A seventh is just going to...
Probably not something we can triage on a forum. LIkely needs in-person attention.
Problem is likely the laptop itself, so solution is getting the storage device out of the laptop, copying all your crap out, and getting a new one.
Probably.