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109 Block buy

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87PearlRegal

In need of a better title
Joined
Dec 17, 2010
Messages
29
I am looking to buy a complete and stock '87 109 block with all components, ignition, intercooler, turbo, everything and maybe the fuel pump. I will need to buy the ECM and engine harness.

I have a '87 NA regal with the v6. From reading searches on here what I need to make this work is a new fuel cell, as mine is carbureted and does not have the pump back on the tank but mounted on the front of the engine under the power steering pump.

A. Where can I find the harness and an ECM?
B. I plan on buying a new fuel cell if I cannot modify my stock one.
C. Best PROM to buy?
D. Anything else I could have missed?

Thanks
 
a/c heater box,inner front fenders,tail light harness,under dash harness,speedo cluster,trans. mount,harness from fuse panel to trunk,radiator.....ect,good luck I just did mine,there was a lot to it,but I now have a 12k spotless,rustfree G/N :-)
 
engine

the best way to complete a project like this is find a donor car ( 86-87 ttype) maybe a rust bucket or a wrecked one or buy one (t type 0 already done save yourself a lot of work.
 
So no where near the drop in I was expecting. I don't understand why the a/c, heater, tail lights won't be the same as my car. Did they make the two that different? I mean I plan I restoring the car, but damn, why didn't I spend more and get a GN in the first place?
 
he said tail light harness

the body harness that runs from the dash fuse block to the trunk and the taillight harness differ from an NA as it has the fuel pump wire, this can be run without needing thhe body or tail harness and you should be running a hotwire for the pump anyway
the fuel sender and tank is needed ..new sender is 95 at rockauto.com, FI tanks are around 135, and youll need a good 255lph fuel pump ( go through a buick vender or racetronix) ,
if you dont have the tail harness youll need to come up with the connector to plug into the fuel sender or just cut the connector off and wire accordingly up to the fuse box or just custom make a hotwire or if your not handy the vendors like racetronx or caspers can make you one for a hybrid


the turbo engine harness is needed and all its elecronics and relays (feul pump relay, fan relays and esc module) you dont need the map sensor its just for the stupid indash led gauge
the dash harness though it can be wired around the NA harness it makes things much easier if you replace it with the turbo dash harness, and you dont need a turbo cluster unless you want to look at the led boost and tach gauges which probably wont be accurate anyway
if you dont do the dash harness youll have to wire the fuelinj/ coilpack module and fp and fan relays power on your own , i would do the turbo dash harness .

the ac boxes are different but isnt needed to be changed , did an 83 to lc2 no problems , but you might need to change the ac drier i forget , i think 87 na is fine as is

the 87 NA already has the lines on the frame 3/8 for fuel 1/4 for return and 5/16 for vent , youll want to add a FI fuel filter in line between tank and the fuel rail ,

you wont be able to run the stock airbox with the NA driver fenderwell not that that's a problem , just use a maf tube and a KN cone filter

you need an electric cooling fan or fans

you dont need to hook up the oil cooler but you will want to change the radiator as the NA v6 rad is tiny, late 2nd gen fbody v8 rads fit with a little work and are under 100 bucks

chip i'd go to no other than turbotweak.com

its a fun project and the few clones ive been around the owners enjoyed them no different then if it was legit , you can say you did it when your finished , but gathering all the pieces and labor these days can cost more than what you might be able to buy a legit lc2 gn or ttype for
 
Doesn't your car already have the 109 block you are looking for??




..


as he said your v6 should be a 20 bolt 3.8 109 in there
ditch everything but the front cover, water pump, oil pan, block, rods, crank, and heads

put heads and pull pistons , put turbo pistons on the rods ,
you could redo the bearings while its out but thats only because it will be easier now to check and correct
, the NA crank isnt rolled filet on the rod journals but it will work for some decent power
do the timing chain
do a turbo cam and springs on the heads
check the oil pump
while the block is apart for the pistons drill the block face for the turbo oil drain
get a balancer and flywheel for turbo
add turbo headers . intake plenum throttlebody, turbo valve covers , access bracket , tensioner , alternator (you cant use your NA alt) ac compressor , and a cam sensor , up rad hose , thermostat , and a bunch of other little items and sensors pulleys... it gets expensive fast plus the shipping from all corners of the country since its all turbo specific you wont find it in any junk yard .
you can add a baffle to the pan or find a turbo baffled pan , and youll need an oil pickup screen for baffled pan and a turbo headgasket (fel9441pt) , new head bolts, and a ms96033 intake pan gasket

drop it in and hook it up and motor should be good to the 10s with supporting injectors ,turbo and tune

but youll also have to address the transmission (the NA v6 stock trans will bolt up but wont last long ), torque converter (the stock will bolt up but will be way to tight to spool well) , rear gears those 2.46 rear gears wont spool well and the na v6 7.5 rear wasnt meant to hold up in the 11s (8.5 rears arent cheap), and an exhaust
 
Dunno

The block is stamped with 25514290. Which doesn't mean anything to me. If it really is worth saving, I will keep it over finding a 109 or the 4.1 291 block. Another post from JDPolzin was asking about this number but didn't get a straight answer. Someone else posted it could have the turbo crank. I need to do more tearing apart to see that though. What would I be looking at for the crank to be a "turbo" version?
 
Thanks for all of that crucial info pacecarta. Will count bolts on oil pan as well.
 
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