14 lb spray engine bog

[lrover2]

This may be a silly question but is alky primarily for wot runs?
I have my dual setup to spray around 14 lbs. I have my boost set at 20 lbs. If I get on it a little at hit the 14 or 15 lbs it bogs the engine. I don’t think I get any bog at wot though. Should I turn the alky setup off when I am not running wot?

 

[WSLN 6]

Can you raise the turn-on point at all?
Try and set the alky turn on as high as possible watching for knock.
Wouldn't that turbo be pushing a lot of air at 15psi?
I have my pump speed set at full with the turn on point around the 14psi mark as well, but mine does not bog with the stock turbo.
Mind you, I don't have 50lb injectors............

 

[lrover2]

Can you raise the turn-on point at all?

I can raise the turn on point but I am worried that at wot any higher would not give it enough time to spray before hitting high boost levels. I have my pump speed set at around six. It doesn’t seem to matter where the speed is set. Maybe the dual injection compensates for the higher spray. Are you running single? I always get knock if I get on it from a launch. Its hard to ignore because there is so much retard I loose power so I gradually get on it and then nail it after I am rolling. I guess I could turn it up a bit and get it out of my normal driving zone. That sounds kind of bad that 14 lbs is in my normal driving zone doesn’t it? Hehehe

 

[WSLN 6]

What chip are you running?
You shouldn't be knocking off of launch without alky.
Do you have an engine tie-down or good motor mounts?
Maybe when you launch the engine is rocking to the passenger side, and the THDP is hitting the A-arm or something, setting off the knock detector.
Try some high octane in the tank, shut off the alky, and check for knock.
At least you wll know if it is false or not.

 

[blackbuick87]

Even with race chip you should not get more than a couple degrees of knock when you punch it (called transitional knock)

How much KR are you getting? If it is from the chip you have too much timing. Sounds like it may be false knock

It is normal for the car to bog slightly at part throttle when the boost is barely high enough to turn on the alcohol. The solution? Step on it harder

A power plate will also help get rid of any transitional knock

 

[Turbo__Tim]

What kind of chip?
How much timing?
What percent mix are you using?
At what boost level do you see knock without alchy?
Where is the fuel pressure set?
Do you have a scan tool?
What gap are the plugs set at?
Tesat for good spark lately? Pull a wire at the coil pack, and check for a 2" blue spark.
Most of us turn on 2 # before we normally see knock. Try that and running 92 percent alchy. Don't push it too hard.
The pump speed does make a difference. T a flow test, and see how much liquid you move in 12 seconds. It should be around 4-6 ounces. Any more than that is prolly too much.

The dual nozzle system may have too large of jets for your combination. You might consider converting to the aquamist nozzles. (816) 333-6582. Ask for Brad.

Try running (4)1 M nozzles @ a 75% mix. (25% water) This should get you to 20# with the proper turn-on point. At full pump speed, you should hit about 4 ounces in 12 seconds

With Aquamist always run at full pump speed to get the best atomization.

You will need 4 nozzles

2 'y' connectors

2 Step down connectors (to go to the 10 mm line)

Some 2-3' of 10 mm line

More JB weld..

Since the nozzles are 15 bucks each,
Try (2) 1 mm nozzles, then go to a 50-50 mix at full pump speed. You should get close to 20# with that. You can always add another 'Y' connector, and add another nozzle. Takes 5 minutes.

Don't get the tap, and drill bits. All you need is one drill bit, and the JB weld. Saved you some money there)

Downside to using the smaller nozzles is that you most keep them free of debris. I use JB weld to anchor the base of the nozzle in. The jet part (the piece with the stem) I tighten (carefully as to not crush anythind) with nedle nose pliers, then rtv them so they don't back out on you from the vibration. Use a dab of rtv. When it's time to check them again, snip the plastic line, and use a propane torch to lightly heat the rtv. It will come right off. Flush, or change the lines while you are at it..

Another downside is the worry over using plastic line to carry alchy, under pressure. Change the lines once a year because the heat will cause them to become brittle. Cost 2 bucks.