I apologize in advance for the length on this post. 
A little while back, I bought an 85 442 with the original engine and trans, with 90k on the clock. When I bought it, the 1-2 shift hung slightly at WOT but was fine at part throttle. By the time I got it home, the 1-2 shift was pretty much toast. At WOT it would float the valves rather than shift, and part throttle slipped pretty bad, especially when hot. 2-3 always shifted fine if a little soft. 3-4 was actually a bit harder than I had expected.
I bought a "rebuilt to GN specs" 200-4R with a few aftermarket parts in it to replace it with, but the trans did not come with a GN valve body (the guy wanted a lot more for the valve body). So I had him leave the original (which ended up being an OG) in it, and I swapped the OZ valve body from my original trans in. It should have a GN servo and governor in it already, so I'm hoping those parts will play nicely together. I actually liked the way the OZ shifted (when it actually DID), so assuming that nothing is messed up inside this trans or no parts incompatabilites this one will be fine.
I plan on fixing the original transmission and throwing it in my other slightly modified, naturally aspirated 3.8L Olds Cutlass. That car has a 4bbl carb and a GN rear (3.42) instead of the factory 2bbl and 2.41s. Which leads to my questions:
1) What do I have to replace to get my 2nd gear shift back? I'm guessing the band is toast, I found a decent amount of clutch material in the pan. No large pieces or anything tho.
2) Will the OG valve body be acceptable for such a "non-performance" car or do I really need to get a BR, OZ, or CZ valve body?
3) If it will be fine, What else do I have to change in an original OZ trans to get the shifts to behave themselves. Is anything in the trans not compatabile with that valve body?
4) Anything else I should look for while I'm in there?
A little while back, I bought an 85 442 with the original engine and trans, with 90k on the clock. When I bought it, the 1-2 shift hung slightly at WOT but was fine at part throttle. By the time I got it home, the 1-2 shift was pretty much toast. At WOT it would float the valves rather than shift, and part throttle slipped pretty bad, especially when hot. 2-3 always shifted fine if a little soft. 3-4 was actually a bit harder than I had expected.
I bought a "rebuilt to GN specs" 200-4R with a few aftermarket parts in it to replace it with, but the trans did not come with a GN valve body (the guy wanted a lot more for the valve body). So I had him leave the original (which ended up being an OG) in it, and I swapped the OZ valve body from my original trans in. It should have a GN servo and governor in it already, so I'm hoping those parts will play nicely together. I actually liked the way the OZ shifted (when it actually DID), so assuming that nothing is messed up inside this trans or no parts incompatabilites this one will be fine.
I plan on fixing the original transmission and throwing it in my other slightly modified, naturally aspirated 3.8L Olds Cutlass. That car has a 4bbl carb and a GN rear (3.42) instead of the factory 2bbl and 2.41s. Which leads to my questions:
1) What do I have to replace to get my 2nd gear shift back? I'm guessing the band is toast, I found a decent amount of clutch material in the pan. No large pieces or anything tho.
2) Will the OG valve body be acceptable for such a "non-performance" car or do I really need to get a BR, OZ, or CZ valve body?
3) If it will be fine, What else do I have to change in an original OZ trans to get the shifts to behave themselves. Is anything in the trans not compatabile with that valve body?
4) Anything else I should look for while I'm in there?
