Note: WILL NOT PART OUT ! ALL OR NOTHING...Thanks
Important..read everything
Background...I bought this car new in 87 and slowly made it into a low 11 sec car. Problem was I drove it every day for 14 yrs. including the New England winters. Then I took it off the road and it sat for 3+ years. "Most" of the performance parts were removed and replaced with stock pieces. It now has 163,000 miles and it is very rusty...especially the undercarriage.
Details are as follows:
1987 Grand National complete 1 owner vehicle..never in a major accident. The car runs and drives, but I wouldn't trust it to go long distances. I just replaced many rusted brake and fuel lines as a "temporary" fix, using compression fittings, just so I could move it around my yard
Body: everything but rear quarters are in very good condition. As for the doors, they are not rotted out, but have had work done to them. They are pretty straight and the lower lip only has surface issues...no rust through. The rest of the body panels are very straight. Trunk lid has no rust as I squirted oil in through the back for years to fend it off. Bumper fillers are not cracked. Grill, header panel and tailights are excellent. Glass is in good condition. Bumpers are good, but have surface rust on top surface. Bumper supports are steel, but I cut and modified them for weight removal so only the 2 short sections that bolt to the frame remain . The undercarriage has the most rust. The floor channels for the body bushings are rotted out, but the floor pans are not rotted through. Everything underneath from the middle of the car back is very crusty. Rear control arms are stock that I boxed years ago and have poly bushings, but are very rusty
Paint: is not very good except on front fenders. I tried a paint improver years ago on the roof and trunk that was like smearing a clear coat over it, but it just made it worse. The hood has checking which is pretty normal, but otherwise looks ok. paint on doors and rear quarters is faded and checked. Funny thing is, it looks pretty good when it's wet !
Engine only has about 10,000 miles since re-do.
109 block with 2 center steel mains, ARP studs
Stock 10/10 crank
Stock bore & pistons w/file to fit rings
Stock rods w/ ARP bolts
Stock ported heads w/ARP bolts
Intake is stock, but ported to match heads exactly w/stock throttle body and injectors
KB Billet adjustable regulator
206/206 flat tappet GS club cam
Stock headers ported & pinned to heads for perfect alignment
Stock turbo, rebuilt w/side dump pipe & stock downpipe
Self made 17 row stretch intercooler w/ported neck..looks stock
KB Ram Air cannister & filter w/good stock MAF
homemade 3" exhaust (rusted) w/ mint 2-1/2" stainless ultraflo muffler
Radiator GM stock replacement 3 core w/oil cooler...160 deg thermostat
Transmission Has good stock 1986 200-R4 from Cutlass installed now
Good original BRF trans (not installed - it's in trunk) I removed to have spare in case my T's broke at racetrack
stock w/Art Carr shift kit
Art Carr #19630 non-lockup 3200 stall converter (cost $750)
huge trans cooler made from 1/2 A/C condenser
Rear End stock
10 bolt 8-1/2" w/3.42's
Posi works great
Large S-10 brake cylinders
Wheels Stock GN wheels
good chrome w/center caps (2 new extra center medalions)
Tires on car are N/G, dryed out & worn
Comes with new (only 5 passes) 28 X 10.5 M/T ET Drag Slicks on steel wheels (cost $320)
Interior very good overall condition. never smoked in.
seats good except drivers bottom has tear
excellent dash w/2-5/8" boost/vac & water temp guages w/knock detector to right of pod....no drilling
original carpet. always had mats...would clean up very well
console in excellent shape
steering wheel in good cond, but horn ring broke but glued together. leather avg wear for 20 yrs.
headliner replaced, but needs more glue...foam & fabric hanging
door panels in great shape...has concert sound speakers
Has 5 point roll bar painted gray. I bolted it to the frame so it could be removed if needed. I welded HD threaded bungs in the ends of the pipes and bolted through frame using 1/2" grade 8 bolts & thick square washers. It also has removeable rear and side bars using kit from Chassisworks. Side bars go into trunk between rear seat and side panels so rear passengers are ok.
Misc most everything works, lights, wipers, horn etc.
A/C needs a charge, but worked great just a few years ago
remember, just a parts car, but could be fixed with enough time and effort.
X-TRA PARTS most are used
109 block, needs good hot tanking...coolant passages cruddy
missing small chunk where lower trans bolt would go. would be useable with a midplate. Std bore with no ridge
stock pistons & rods (have 4 other std pistons & rods as well, 10 total)
stock crank, never turned
flywheel & starter
stock heads w/original cam, lifters & pushrods
complete intake manifold w/stock throttle body & 2 plenums,30lb. injectors, fuel rail, vacuum block & lines, coolant pipes
timing cover & alum accessory bracket w/tensioner & pulley
Power steering pump
Intercooler brackets
Spacer for crank pulley & water pump pulley
stock wastegate w/exhaust housing & elbow
stock downpipe & good catalytic converter
stock intercooler & scoop (also have homemade scoop for under bumper for stretch intercooler)
stock coil pack & original 50,000 mile plug wires (good for show car to look original)
Caspers coil pack tester
Steering box, shaft & front stabilizer bar
GS Club Rebuilt MAF Sensor
Original Factory Air Cleaner Assembly incl elbow
Comp Cams Roller Lifters & Pushrods w/ only 1,400 miles
4 New Comp Cams #981 springs & 12 used
16 New Crane #99846 Valve Springs H-11 Tool Steel, 130 lbs. @ 1.71 installed height (would be good for roller cam if set properly)
A few other Misc items
Also comes with Direct Scan Program, includes Interface box, cables & Software in Original box
Chip Burning Package: Includes the Pocket Programer chip burner, Datarase chip eraser & T6 Tuner software to burn your own chips
$6,000
Looks great when wet
Important..read everything
Background...I bought this car new in 87 and slowly made it into a low 11 sec car. Problem was I drove it every day for 14 yrs. including the New England winters. Then I took it off the road and it sat for 3+ years. "Most" of the performance parts were removed and replaced with stock pieces. It now has 163,000 miles and it is very rusty...especially the undercarriage.
Details are as follows:
1987 Grand National complete 1 owner vehicle..never in a major accident. The car runs and drives, but I wouldn't trust it to go long distances. I just replaced many rusted brake and fuel lines as a "temporary" fix, using compression fittings, just so I could move it around my yard
Body: everything but rear quarters are in very good condition. As for the doors, they are not rotted out, but have had work done to them. They are pretty straight and the lower lip only has surface issues...no rust through. The rest of the body panels are very straight. Trunk lid has no rust as I squirted oil in through the back for years to fend it off. Bumper fillers are not cracked. Grill, header panel and tailights are excellent. Glass is in good condition. Bumpers are good, but have surface rust on top surface. Bumper supports are steel, but I cut and modified them for weight removal so only the 2 short sections that bolt to the frame remain . The undercarriage has the most rust. The floor channels for the body bushings are rotted out, but the floor pans are not rotted through. Everything underneath from the middle of the car back is very crusty. Rear control arms are stock that I boxed years ago and have poly bushings, but are very rusty
Paint: is not very good except on front fenders. I tried a paint improver years ago on the roof and trunk that was like smearing a clear coat over it, but it just made it worse. The hood has checking which is pretty normal, but otherwise looks ok. paint on doors and rear quarters is faded and checked. Funny thing is, it looks pretty good when it's wet !
Engine only has about 10,000 miles since re-do.
109 block with 2 center steel mains, ARP studs
Stock 10/10 crank
Stock bore & pistons w/file to fit rings
Stock rods w/ ARP bolts
Stock ported heads w/ARP bolts
Intake is stock, but ported to match heads exactly w/stock throttle body and injectors
KB Billet adjustable regulator
206/206 flat tappet GS club cam
Stock headers ported & pinned to heads for perfect alignment
Stock turbo, rebuilt w/side dump pipe & stock downpipe
Self made 17 row stretch intercooler w/ported neck..looks stock
KB Ram Air cannister & filter w/good stock MAF
homemade 3" exhaust (rusted) w/ mint 2-1/2" stainless ultraflo muffler
Radiator GM stock replacement 3 core w/oil cooler...160 deg thermostat
Transmission Has good stock 1986 200-R4 from Cutlass installed now
Good original BRF trans (not installed - it's in trunk) I removed to have spare in case my T's broke at racetrack
stock w/Art Carr shift kit
Art Carr #19630 non-lockup 3200 stall converter (cost $750)
huge trans cooler made from 1/2 A/C condenser
Rear End stock
10 bolt 8-1/2" w/3.42's
Posi works great
Large S-10 brake cylinders
Wheels Stock GN wheels
good chrome w/center caps (2 new extra center medalions)
Tires on car are N/G, dryed out & worn
Comes with new (only 5 passes) 28 X 10.5 M/T ET Drag Slicks on steel wheels (cost $320)
Interior very good overall condition. never smoked in.
seats good except drivers bottom has tear
excellent dash w/2-5/8" boost/vac & water temp guages w/knock detector to right of pod....no drilling
original carpet. always had mats...would clean up very well
console in excellent shape
steering wheel in good cond, but horn ring broke but glued together. leather avg wear for 20 yrs.
headliner replaced, but needs more glue...foam & fabric hanging
door panels in great shape...has concert sound speakers
Has 5 point roll bar painted gray. I bolted it to the frame so it could be removed if needed. I welded HD threaded bungs in the ends of the pipes and bolted through frame using 1/2" grade 8 bolts & thick square washers. It also has removeable rear and side bars using kit from Chassisworks. Side bars go into trunk between rear seat and side panels so rear passengers are ok.
Misc most everything works, lights, wipers, horn etc.
A/C needs a charge, but worked great just a few years ago
remember, just a parts car, but could be fixed with enough time and effort.
X-TRA PARTS most are used
109 block, needs good hot tanking...coolant passages cruddy
missing small chunk where lower trans bolt would go. would be useable with a midplate. Std bore with no ridge
stock pistons & rods (have 4 other std pistons & rods as well, 10 total)
stock crank, never turned
flywheel & starter
stock heads w/original cam, lifters & pushrods
complete intake manifold w/stock throttle body & 2 plenums,30lb. injectors, fuel rail, vacuum block & lines, coolant pipes
timing cover & alum accessory bracket w/tensioner & pulley
Power steering pump
Intercooler brackets
Spacer for crank pulley & water pump pulley
stock wastegate w/exhaust housing & elbow
stock downpipe & good catalytic converter
stock intercooler & scoop (also have homemade scoop for under bumper for stretch intercooler)
stock coil pack & original 50,000 mile plug wires (good for show car to look original)
Caspers coil pack tester
Steering box, shaft & front stabilizer bar
GS Club Rebuilt MAF Sensor
Original Factory Air Cleaner Assembly incl elbow
Comp Cams Roller Lifters & Pushrods w/ only 1,400 miles
4 New Comp Cams #981 springs & 12 used
16 New Crane #99846 Valve Springs H-11 Tool Steel, 130 lbs. @ 1.71 installed height (would be good for roller cam if set properly)
A few other Misc items
Also comes with Direct Scan Program, includes Interface box, cables & Software in Original box
Chip Burning Package: Includes the Pocket Programer chip burner, Datarase chip eraser & T6 Tuner software to burn your own chips
$6,000
Looks great when wet
