Adjustable actuators

[bakerlaw67]

What's the going price for a wastegate actuator? I want to hack mine into an adjustable, but I want a non-adjustable for restoration purposes.

 

[b4black]

Don't cut up your original yet. All replacement actuators were adjustable. It's actuallty harder to find the non-adjustables.

This place listed them on their website before, but I don't know if they actually have them:
http://www.bramall-turbo.com/

 

[b4black]

Just another thought. You could either add an external spring along the rod so it takes a few psi more to open it.

OR

I have my actautor so short it doesn't do anything but hold the WG closed (it never opens). I think the stock downpipe limits you to about 12 psi tops and at that level I don't see any knock (on 93 octane). You could hold it completely shut with something liek a turnbuckle. You risk overboosting, but if you have a good boost gauge and can monitor knock, you know if that's a problem or not.

 

[Lee_Burough]

Or, you could install a manual boost controller....

 

[Turbo-Rich]

http://www.performanceexhausts.net/Boost.html


I'm using one of these.
It Does a good job cutting down lag time & controlling boost.
It holds the signal back from the wastegate all together.
I'm seeing 17#'s at the manifold with it, "Open" exhaust, an unrestricted air cleaner & alc. injection.

 

[b4black]

That's a relief valve. It's list for 50 pounds on that website which is ~$75.

You can make it for about $20 following the directions on TurboGus Mahon's Website. http://home.earthlink.net/~turbogus4/boostcontrol.html

If you go to Gus's opening page, you unfortunately find he was killed in a motorcycle accident. Gus was the guy with the 13 second Turbo Minivan. http://home.earthlink.net/~turbogus/index.html


Turbo-Rich, I wish I could figure out why I can only get 14 psi while you can get 17. Do you still have the factory downpipe???

 

[Turbo-Rich]

Originally posted by b4black
That's a relief valve. It's list for 50 pounds on that website which is ~$75.

I bought one of the older models he isn't offering anymore.
It was like $25 or so as I remember it.
The new ones he has for sale are "Hybrid".
I don't see where they would have that much advantage over a "regular" controller for the extra dough?
I have the instructions to build one just like it (reg.)for roughly $12 thru McAster's. I just wanted to see a working model first. It's a very simple piece. One will eventually make way to Tonya's T I'm sure.

Oh btw, I have those sites you posted on my favorites too

 

[Turbo-Rich]

Originally posted by b4black


Turbo-Rich, I wish I could figure out why I can only get 14 psi while you can get 17. Do you still have the factory downpipe???

I was having that problem before I used sealer on my up pipe this last time.
Before that I was stuck around 12-14#'s also. Don't you remember me posting about that? It's been a long time ago.
You told me then (basically) how restricted the intake & exhaust systems are & how that was probabley limiting max. boost.
That got me thinking & I removed the restrictive stock air cleaner ass. & put on an open element air cleaner. I cut my exhaust completely off right before the cat. so its completely open. Surprisingly it isn't too loud that way & there is NO backpressure. I also removed the a/c comp. & smog pump (& acc.) to free up some HP. I'll eventually lose the power steering & heater core garbage someday.
I also lightly "ported" the intake & I polised the inside of the carb. plenum.
Anyway, have you tried alc.injection yet?
That drove the boost up 1 to 2 #'s alone.
I'm also running a lot of timing & a rich fuel mixture even at 17 #'s.

 

[fc227]

The open-air element has one problem. The Engine will be sucking in warm under hood air. Reworking the carb.hat and a Cold air intake may be better. I have found since I installed the hood scoop it has limited the times I can drive it, no rain, etc.

Has for Alky, I am running it 19-20 # of boost on 93 octane. My own progressive, pump speed setup.

 

[buick83-T]

Turbo-Rich I see you have removed your smog pump and accessories how well did that work? I was thinking hard about trying to get rid of mine.( I am not using the cat air injection or the piece that connects to the air filter box.)

 

[Turbo-Rich]

Originally posted by fc227
The open-air element has one problem. The Engine will be sucking in warm under hood air. Reworking the carb.hat and a Cold air intake may be better. I have found since I installed the hood scoop it has limited the times I can drive it, no rain, etc.

I agree,
I had the open air element lying around & couldn't resist throwing it on. I believe it works lots better than the stock set up but only because that's so restrictive. I'll (prob) eventually put the stock one back on once I decide what direction I am going in next.
I plan on trying something different. I'd like to seal the bonnet so I could use it with this "cold air injection" set up I've been working on or possibley even for B.T. use on a part time "over-under" set up.
I've been tight lipped about my future plans here on the board because they are very un-conventional & currently under developement, which is going slower than heck btw.
I really don't want to misslead anyone with an idea that I haven't tested myself. It would probabley spark more arguements than new prospectives.

 

[Turbo-Rich]

Originally posted by buick83-T
Turbo-Rich I see you have removed your smog pump and accessories how well did that work? I was thinking hard about trying to get rid of mine.( I am not using the cat air injection or the piece that connects to the air filter box.)

Sorry it took me so long to answer your post.

I haven't had any problems since I removed all that stuff.
If you look at some really fast IC cars you'll notice they don't run the stuff either. But like you, I wasn't using any of it anyway & it was all in SAD shape. The air lines were full of rust
I couldn't see just letting it piggy back a free ride on my turbo motor. Plus it's LOTS easier to get around the engine compartment & lots cleaner looking also.
The only negative effect I can tell you about is that the "check engine light" comes on occasionally. No diff. in driveability when the light is on tho.
B4black mentioned something about the PEVC(?)
Maybe he can inform us more about that aspect?
I still have all the parts boxed up. I should weigh them just to see how many lbs. were saved.
I am sure the pump takes up some HP to run also.
Personally, If I had a TB that ran perfectly with the smog stuff hooked up, I wouldn't get rid of it just because. Every action has a reation+Murphy's law= . If it's not working anyway I'd rather get it out of the way & keep things as simple as possible under MY hood.