alky kit question
- Thread starter evolife04
- Start date
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I've seen others that use the windshield wiper fluid bottle. I think the key is to make sure the tank is higher than the pump so its gravity fed.on the EVO you use the intercooler sprayer bottle.
There are a few companies marketing various kits for the EVO. AMS in Illinois http://www.automotosports.com/ does a variation of mine specific to the EVO.
The biggest issue I see is getting technical support after the install as to tuning help.. thats why it is important to have a reputable tuner on hand when it comes to addressing the tuning issues.
All the threads in this section pertain to injection.. A kit is basically a pump, nozzle, controller, tuning, and tank. Tuning is one major part. And knowing what to change(tuning) to maximize the output of the system..
In the realm of making power for the EVO. AMS has got it
Hope this helps.
Re: Re: alky kit question
He hath spoken. You can trust his word if he says AMS is the place to go. Don't even waste your time shopping around as he's the authority on this topic.
Originally posted by Razor
on the EVO you use the intercooler sprayer bottle.
There are a few companies marketing various kits for the EVO. AMS in Illinois http://www.automotosports.com/ does a variation of mine specific to the EVO.
The biggest issue I see is getting technical support after the install as to tuning help.. thats why it is important to have a reputable tuner on hand when it comes to addressing the tuning issues.
All the threads in this section pertain to injection.. A kit is basically a pump, nozzle, controller, tuning, and tank. Tuning is one major part. And knowing what to change(tuning) to maximize the output of the system..
In the realm of making power for the EVO. AMS has got it
Hope this helps.
He hath spoken. You can trust his word if he says AMS is the place to go. Don't even waste your time shopping around as he's the authority on this topic.
GNVYUS 1
Well-Known Member
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- Dec 15, 2002
- Messages
- 4,364
Here is the reason for this question over here.
http://forums.evolutionm.net/showthread.php?t=125619
There are some interesting theorys over there.
Razor, where are those figures you had on Meth and the amount ingested and the cooling it offers?
By the way, -40 below washer fluid is the ONLY washer fluid that is close to a 50/50 mix of Meth/Water.
www.pittpenn.com/viewPDF.asp?fName=Windshield Wash Solvent&fID=2
http://forums.evolutionm.net/showthread.php?t=125619
There are some interesting theorys over there.
Razor, where are those figures you had on Meth and the amount ingested and the cooling it offers?
By the way, -40 below washer fluid is the ONLY washer fluid that is close to a 50/50 mix of Meth/Water.
www.pittpenn.com/viewPDF.asp?fName=Windshield Wash Solvent&fID=2
Alcohol is not gasoline. While flammable, it requires almost direct fire on it to get it to combust. I have poured alcohol on a hot down pipe and all it did was flash and evaporate.
By the time it hits the ground it typically has evaporated. You get a rag and douse it in alcohol, apply heat to it.. it wont auto ignite like gasoline will. There are no residual vapors. Unlike a gasoline soaked rag that will ignite big time a day after its dried.
I dont like running mix in the quest for making power. Our tanks have breathers on them, if it evaps a little.. big deal. Anything that could slosh out with the temps under the hood.. by the time it migrated away from the tank will have evaporated.
If utmost in safety is a concern, get a professional fuel cell and mount it in the trunk. Then run lines underneath the car. Actually if utmost of safety is a concern, stay inside your home.. dont drive. Let alone race a car.
Oil is combustible, transmission fluid is combustible, gasoline is combustible, there are plenty of liquids in a car that will ignite given the rite conditions. Alcohol is the least of your worries.
Now..
DrBooster, dont understand the question as it pertains to the amount being injested vs cooling. This question is to open to generalize a response. We did some testing on a non-IC Stage Buick a few months ago.. a lot was being sprayed. Look for the post "Hartmans Dyno" dont know if that was the one you were referring to.
Funny how the imports now ask the same questions that the Buick communitty was 8+years ago... And no Buick fires.. go figure.
By the time it hits the ground it typically has evaporated. You get a rag and douse it in alcohol, apply heat to it.. it wont auto ignite like gasoline will. There are no residual vapors. Unlike a gasoline soaked rag that will ignite big time a day after its dried.
I dont like running mix in the quest for making power. Our tanks have breathers on them, if it evaps a little.. big deal. Anything that could slosh out with the temps under the hood.. by the time it migrated away from the tank will have evaporated.
If utmost in safety is a concern, get a professional fuel cell and mount it in the trunk. Then run lines underneath the car. Actually if utmost of safety is a concern, stay inside your home.. dont drive. Let alone race a car.
Oil is combustible, transmission fluid is combustible, gasoline is combustible, there are plenty of liquids in a car that will ignite given the rite conditions. Alcohol is the least of your worries.
Now..
DrBooster, dont understand the question as it pertains to the amount being injested vs cooling. This question is to open to generalize a response. We did some testing on a non-IC Stage Buick a few months ago.. a lot was being sprayed. Look for the post "Hartmans Dyno" dont know if that was the one you were referring to.
Funny how the imports now ask the same questions that the Buick communitty was 8+years ago... And no Buick fires.. go figure.
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