How do you know if alky pump is working to its fullest.Reason i ask is i had a turbo failure,now i had a rjc gasket split in half.I test the alky and it don't bog the motor at all.I took line off before the dual nozzles and it drizzles out.Should the pump push it out at a big stream,or not.The kit is three years old maybe four and i have done nothing with it.So any help would be great,i am suppose to go next week and dyno it but lil freaked my alky is not working correctly.I am not even going into boost more then 8lbs right now,just in case...
alky pump ?
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TR Custom Parts
Mark Hueffman - Owner
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On my GN I have two ways of monitoring alky pump pressure. Have a hood mounted mechanical gauge and also can monitor pressure with my Powerlogger. Julio sells a transducer kit for the PL. The mechanical gauge setup I made my self and tapped into the nozzle line. I know Julio was selling a gauge setup so check with him. At full tilt my gauge will be reading about 150 lbs or so. Believe me that is not dribbling out.
so i guess i a needing a new pump from what you guys are saying.Like said even with line direct from pump it dribbes out.Not a stream at all.Great anoher setback in my car...that would probably explain the rjc headgasket being split in half on driver side center cylinder.Looks like i call and see what pump cost...so razor whats it cost lol...
This is not a setup but a wakeup. Glad your using the test button to try and sort things out.
Now.. the pumps when they start going bad either leak or have a motor problem from water getting into the motor.
If water gets into the motor of the pump the bearings will seize up and it wont spin or struggle spinning. Easy way to check is pull the bolts and make sure they are not rusty.
If they are nice and shiney.. and it doesnt leak.. more than likely pump is fine and you have a controller setup/ground issue to the PAC.
The newer pumps as of Dec 2009 have the sleeves to eliminate the water in pump motor scenario.
And... lastly.. place gain knob on postion 8, push test button and measure voltage across the red/black pump wires(unhook hose from nozzle). You should see 3.8-4.0 volts. If you see 2 volts for example.. then you cannot expect pump to shoot liquid across the room with only 2 volts applied. Hope this makes sense. Issues with low voltage may be Initial is turned too low, bad ground, dirty power connection, etc.
Now.. the pumps when they start going bad either leak or have a motor problem from water getting into the motor.
If water gets into the motor of the pump the bearings will seize up and it wont spin or struggle spinning. Easy way to check is pull the bolts and make sure they are not rusty.
If they are nice and shiney.. and it doesnt leak.. more than likely pump is fine and you have a controller setup/ground issue to the PAC.
The newer pumps as of Dec 2009 have the sleeves to eliminate the water in pump motor scenario.
And... lastly.. place gain knob on postion 8, push test button and measure voltage across the red/black pump wires(unhook hose from nozzle). You should see 3.8-4.0 volts. If you see 2 volts for example.. then you cannot expect pump to shoot liquid across the room with only 2 volts applied. Hope this makes sense. Issues with low voltage may be Initial is turned too low, bad ground, dirty power connection, etc.
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BINGO all is good power was not pushed in all the way for one.Measured acrossed like said and it was only like 2.6 volts.So turned the intial a lil more like it looks like in directions i have from orginally buying kit.And it snuffs the motor like should again ,so thanks julio for talking me out of a pump....lol i also looked at bolts they are all shiney thanks to everyone else who helped also.
i went thru the directions and red all the voltage stuff for setting inside the box .I think this is right on the money.(see pic)The dial on the right was turned down,and i turned it way up to like 2 oclock area took it for ride and when i would just eas into it,it popped out the tail pipe at about 10 psi .so i went back and looked at pictures and set the left one to the 2.15v ,by the centerpost.The other i didn't know what voltage was suppose to be so i,just eyeballed it to the picture,and figure it probably closer to stock. but I will definetly look into sending it in and ordering the gauge deal.One last question i have is with the dial on the box where you test it,what is a good starting pont with my 6765 dbb turbo ,it does have billet wheels now where as before i just had a 6775.Is 5-6 a good starter or should i go higher.
i went thru the directions and red all the voltage stuff for setting inside the box .I think this is right on the money.(see pic)The dial on the right was turned down,and i turned it way up to like 2 oclock area took it for ride and when i would just eas into it,it popped out the tail pipe at about 10 psi .so i went back and looked at pictures and set the left one to the 2.15v ,by the centerpost.The other i didn't know what voltage was suppose to be so i,just eyeballed it to the picture,and figure it probably closer to stock. but I will definetly look into sending it in and ordering the gauge deal.One last question i have is with the dial on the box where you test it,what is a good starting pont with my 6765 dbb turbo ,it does have billet wheels now where as before i just had a 6775.Is 5-6 a good starter or should i go higher.
Set Turnon to 2.20 volts.
Put the Initail at 12 o'clock. So it needs a small bump to the right.
bumped it to 12,ook for ride.Still wants to pop out exhaust and knock goes up2.5-3.If i stay under 12pst it goes like hell and see zero knock.I looked at blms and it is at like 115 just easing it to it.anything over 12 and popand knock begins...so now where to go from here....
I would say drop the kit to a single nozzle. Your trying to figure out the car and twin nozzles are way too much for a car at low boost/low power levels.
Cap of the other nozzle so you dont have a boost leak.
Twin nozzle kits are great once the car is figured out on the single.. everytime someone starts with a twin nozzle to tune.. cuase they think they need it.. it always comes back and bites them.
Low BLM's means its rich and pulling fuel. You throw alcohol on top of a rich setup.. you get issues.
As posted above check fuel pressure with an accurate gauge and confirm its proper rise. 43 line off is 55 lbs of fuel at 12 PSI.
If LED is changing from red to green pretty quick on a single nozzle.. kit is healthy.
ok i turned the alky off completly,took it up to 12 lbs and still spits out exhaust and causes knock.So i went back thro tps and stuff .The tps was only going 3.79 with foot full throttle.So adjust tps back to .42 and stepped down tps goes up to 4.35 right now.Iac controle was reading 00 now after tps adjustment is reading 20-23...So took for a ride no more pop out exhaust over 12psi,but was showing knock around 15psi. So i took alook at some off my ignition stuff pulled cam cap make sure all is still tight etc.Noticed that inside casper cap there is alot of moisture,so i put on a stock cap for now.Alky is low and i have had it for the day so i am going to try tomorrow and see what happens...i am also going to throw a set of plugs in just to cover my bases even further.I think i am getting it tracked down,anybody got anything else want me to look at.
ps fuel pressure is going up with boost,at 12 psi it was like 55, wideband at idle is 13.7 -14.3,going in to boost it is dropping 10.8.
ps fuel pressure is going up with boost,at 12 psi it was like 55, wideband at idle is 13.7 -14.3,going in to boost it is dropping 10.8.
i will do a log tomorrow and post it, see what you think.
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