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Almost ready to Drive? Tips/Suggestions?

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54Rich

Member
Joined
Apr 10, 2007
Messages
664
So, I bought my car in May, drove it around the block, deceided it was a cobbled up mess, pulled it in the garage, put it on stands and have been working on it ever since! Well, installed the turbo last night, so it's getting close:rolleyes:

I've touched almost every piece of this car and I'm sure that there will be some additional work that will be needed. I just don't want to ruin something by not checking it first. Here's a short list of the major work:

1) Posi rear, new wheel studs, tires
2) Brakes, new Reservior with lid
3) AC hose repair, new compressor, dryer, orifice, vacuum down
4) Transmission fluid change, new filter, correct gear, new trans lines
5) New Gas Tank, Hot Wire Kit, XPpump
6) New Dash, carpet, headliner
7) New rear seal, oil pan gasket, valve cover gaskets
8) Radiator new fluid
9) Cleaned intercooler
10) Correct shifter installed
11) Welded Pass header, was cracked due to missing intercooler mounts
12) RJP Power plate, All new Vacuum Lines

That's the major stuff, a ton of minor fixes, missing parts, striped bolts, etc. There is not any fluids in the car right now. Except for Trans fluid and it's leaking:mad: The cork gasket is acting like sponge and it's seaping through.

Now that's that's all done, I have a few questions. Reading the board, I see that there's a possibility of loss of prime?

1) How do I confim oil pressure, when there is not a gage installed yet?
2) I've read that some have removed the stock oil cooler, should I?
3) There is no gas, do I need to bleed the air out of the line?
4) Partial charge the AC, or can I wait until it's running?
5) Anything else I can check, should do in preperation of driving this beast:cool:

All comments/suggestions are appreicated!

Thanks,

Rich
 
the oil cooler is built into the radiator, so you could bypass it, but not remove it. I would only bypass it if you are afraid that something has contaminated it (IE: grenaded the motor and you're worried about metal shavings)

one way to confirm oil pressure is to remove the oil feed line at the turbo and pull the fuel pump fuse...then crank the motor over and if you get oil out the feed line, you have oil pressure. Also, I would replace a fuel filter, as you could have some crap settling in the bottom of the tank. I

f the car has been sitting for awhile, I would bleed the brakes and make sure you still have good pedal feel, there's no telling when a powermaster will crap out on you.
 
the oil cooler is built into the radiator, so you could bypass it, but not remove it. I would only bypass it if you are afraid that something has contaminated it (IE: grenaded the motor and you're worried about metal shavings)

one way to confirm oil pressure is to remove the oil feed line at the turbo and pull the fuel pump fuse...then crank the motor over and if you get oil out the feed line, you have oil pressure. Also, I would replace a fuel filter, as you could have some crap settling in the bottom of the tank. I

f the car has been sitting for awhile, I would bleed the brakes and make sure you still have good pedal feel, there's no telling when a powermaster will crap out on you.

Hard to tell anything about the motor, seemed to run good, all things considered, however, the oil pan had more than a few metal shavings. It looks like the heads and the timing cover have been off, cam looked great and so did the bearings. Turbo has no play, just a little in and out. It's a 104,000 mile car.

Great idea on the oil line!

Wanted to flush the brakes, however once again cobbled, the rear bleaders are both broken and the fronts are frozen. Figured I replace the rear wheel cyc, over the winter. Seem to have great brakes, eventhough all the shoes were shot.

Fuel filter has been changed out.

Thanks,

Rich
 
it's pretty common for these to have the timing chain replaced at 60K miles or so...and with any boosted car, head gaskets are gonna go sooner than later. If you are at all unsure of the metal shaving and oil cooler scenario, I would just bite the bullet and either 1) bypass the oil cooler or 2) buy a replacement radiator with the oil cooler GBodyParts.com Online has a great one!
 
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