ANOTHER s-10 manual m/c thread !

[dentmasters01]

ok, went to pull a part today and picked up two manual s10 mc's. 83 and 85 models. For all those that wonder how to keep the rod in place....if you find an unmolested truck, you take the mc out and the rod is held in place with a "cup" under the rubber boot that all comes out with the mc. A little "widening" of the buicks hole and the cup fits right in. no way the rod can come out. now about the rod. The peddle end is a dead ringer for the powermaster rod. Fits right on the peddle. You just need to cut 2" out of it and weld it back together. perfect fit.

I'll post pics this weekend.

now the Problem......Im bleeding the lines and the front was great. Good line pressure and lots of fluid coming out. The rear seems like its not getting alot of fluid out??? While I had it on the bench I filled up the two res. and pushed the plunger....the rear reservoir had fluid cumming back up out of it, but the port was spewing fluid out like it should. is that normal with no cap and no lines attached ?? the front port while on the bench, that goes to the back brakes, which may be my problem, had really no fluid coming out......?? I tried another mc and it did the same thing so i figured it was normal, but as I mentioned above hardly any fluid coming out the rear bleaders after i put it on and started bleeding the lines. Bad mc?? two bad mc's ???
any thoughts??

oh yea, I also scored a whole vacc. assembly and brake peddle of an 85 regal. there are numbers on the bottom side of the mc's. Its funny because the exact same numbers are on the manual s-10 and the vacc. brake's mc off the regal. So, if you wanted manuals, you could just take the mc off a vacc. regal and bolt it on.

 

[dentmasters01]

ok, as promised here are the pics of the s-10 pieces. Both the trucks were 83 and 85 models. Shown are the s10 stock rod and "cup" that retains the rod from falling out. Grinding of the pm mount and it slides right in to the firewall as shown in pic. You can also see compaired to the pm rod they are identical except for being 2" too long. Cut out two inches and weld back together. I don't know what kind of peddle rod came on the 84 s-10 that everyone is saying is the wrong peddle rod, but this one is a dead ringer, just shorten it up. And the cup will solve everyones concern about the rod falling out. no way, no how it can happen.

by the way, I have an extra rod and cup off of the s-10 setup if anyone is interested. I also have two manual mc off of the trucks. I have a complete vacc. brake set up off an 85' na regal including peddel if anyone is interesed.

hope these pics help. this was an easy set up.....if I can ever get the **&^ air out of the system

 

[dentmasters01]

took the car out today. All I can say is WOW. I love these brakes. I ended up chunking the stock prop. valve and just straight lining the rear brakes with an adjustable summit prop. valve up by the mc. T'd the fronts. from a 100 mph pull, I can stop quick ! The brakes don't lock up. The front end nose dives and just STOPS. Feels awesome. More leg pressure, but a great feel, and I can control the pressure easily. Thumbs up to anyone making this decision !!

 

[John N]

Do you have a picture of how you got rid of the prop valve and tied everything together down there?

 

[dentmasters01]

Do you have a picture of how you got rid of the prop valve and tied everything together down there?

I'll try and get some pics tomorrow, but all you do is loosen the five lines that go into the prop. valve. Once all the lines are off, take the prop. valve and put it in your tool box to sell at a later date. Now go to napa and stand at the counter for approx. 45 mins.

You need a brass "t" that will tie the fronts togeter. Your front brake lines will screw into the ends of the "t" but you'll need a reducer for the brake line coming from your mc that goes down to the front brakes. Its either a 5/16 or1/2 down to ?? can't remember what the size is for the brass "t". I think its 3/16 but don't quote me on it.

Next, you'll need a step up for the rear connection, because the brilliant engineers used different size fittings all over the place. The line fitting coming from the mc down under the car for the rear brake line needs to be stepped up to the larger fitting that I think is 5/8?. I had to use three fittings to make this work.

I could have given the fitting sizes but, you know, I stood there so long trying to get all those fittings i could have gotten the sizes and where they go mixed up?? I actually laid them on the counter in the way they went on the car and assembled the fittings so when I got home I could just put them on and not screw it up. hope it helps.

Oh yea, if you get an adj. prop. valve, you'll need another set of step downs to connect it to the mc. The s-10 had the prop. valve right besid the mc under the hood, and it had small brake lines from the mc to the prop. valve that I used to connect my adjustable prop. valve to my mc. I'll get pics and it'll help.

 

[BlackMetal]

I agree, more pix of how you did everything with the lines would be nice. It's too bad you didn't take better notes about the fittings and adapters, there are a few of us here dying to do manual brakes but we are waiting for someone to come along and say "THIS is what you need to buy and what you need to do with it". Everyone who successfully does the conversion comes back to the forums, says "man my brakes feel great!", and forgets to help everyone else who was asking "if you do the conversion, let us know how you did it!". Everyone mentions step-downs, step-ups, various adapters, but nobody takes the time to write everything down or keep track of all the different sizes!