Best speakers for factory head unit?

[Wahoo]

I like the 80s vibe my car has so i dont really want to change the headunit, although it would be cool to have someone modify it with an auxillary cable plug.

Anything worth installing with the factory head unit?

 

[salvageV6]

An amplifier with high level inputs, then you can use any speakers you like that fit.

Barring adding an amplifier for more power, I'd stick to the most efficient highest db output with 1 watt ratings you can find, JBL etc....

 

[Wahoo]

Im afraid to put speakers in the car and they sound like shit lol

I guess i should do a head unit as well i found the thread where people bought the modified stock head units and they were expensive and didnt last.

 

[TurboHungry]

I'm running factory head unit with aux input I added (real easy) and I'm running Polk Audio 4" up front and MB Quart 6x9 in rear. Not a bumpin system but sounds good when turning up some Back in Black


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[Wahoo]

I'm running factory head unit with aux input I added (real easy) and I'm running Polk Audio 4" up front and MB Quart 6x9 in rear. Not a bumpin system but sounds good when turning up some Back in Black


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What are you running in the front doors. I dont know im ready to mess with the dash speakers lol

 

[m3x1c0]

I'm running factory head unit with aux input I added (real easy) and I'm running Polk Audio 4" up front and MB Quart 6x9 in rear. Not a bumpin system but sounds good when turning up some Back in Black


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How did you add the input? I tried a couple methods that tapped into the tape deck but it seemed that since the tape deck didnt work the input didnt either. Ive got two head units that have the same problem. Tape just clicks and clicks and doesnt want to eject.

 

[BuickMike]

Do you have CSII? Remember that the original speakers were all either 8 or 10 ohm and the CSII fronts are in Parallel. If you connect 4 ohm replacements to the fronts with all of them in parallel you will end up hurting the amp in the stock headunit due to the 2 ohm load. Plus, I think there is a small cap inline to one of those fronts to filter out low frequencies. Common sense would say that it would be the dash speakers, however the schematic I saw showed it running to the door speakers. For aftermarket speakers, I would honestly run separate wiring to them. a 5.25" component set would work out well. Personally I would skip putting the tweeters in the dash and use brackets to mount them to the underside of the dash near the kick panels and angle towards the dome light. If you want to run coaxials in the doors and the dash, you are going to want to run them in series and also bypass the factory wiring. The problem with that is that unless you go with high ohm rear speakers, the rear will overpower the fronts and ruin the front soundstage. Another alternative on the rears would be to get some adapters and run 6.5" or 6X9 free air woofers only back there. Not sure what is available out there that could run on low wattage, but I'm sure there is something.

 

[TurboHungry]

For the aux input I followed these instructions.
http://www.eurosportvr.com/misc/ipod input/Doc1.htm

As for door speakers I have 5.25 infinity kappa components i will put in, but like BuickMike said you shouldn't run new 4 ohm speakers in parallel on the head unit if you want it to last long. So for now I have only front and rears hooked up. To remedy this I'm using this compact amplifier http://www.amazon.com/Clarion-Electronics-XC1410-4-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00B43LKV0 to add two higher output channels which will push my doors and rears.


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[achalmersman]

So when you do that modification to the radio what are you using as the input? The tape deck?

 

[TurboHungry]

The plug it suggests you buy is just like an aux input on any newer vehicle. You use a cord with two 3.5 mm plugs or two headphone jacks as some might call it. It actually uses the wires straight into the amp so when you plug it in the am/fm is disconnected and you hear whatever you play. Yes the radio still works too


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