Brake line nut near caliper stuck

[VADER]

The hard brake line nut where it meets the soft line is stuck. I tried flare wrench, vise grips, wd40, propane torch, and now its almost round, and still stuck. Any ideas? I was trying to replace the factory line w/ braided, but I cant get it off. I may just leave it for now, even though it has some cracks. This was the last step before bleeding for a complete overhaul

 

[TURBOTWIN2]

PB Blaster penetrating oil (let it soak) and try to tighten it JUST A TOUCH to break adhesion, then loosen. Be sure to use a backup wrench on the hard line part for support. Next, say a little prayer, do a VooDoo Black Magic sacrifice, a Japanese Samaurai pre-battle ritual, get a court order and it should come right on off.

 

[mybuick]

first take out the bleeder screw!!!!!!! then what you need to do is heat the nut til red hot, then cool the metal line, then it should loosen .

 

[tom h]

vader,
since it now seems the inverted flare male nut on hard line(s) between the proportioning valve and calipers is damaged, you should consider replacing the hard line -- it's accessible and not difficult to replace.

I used stainless steel lines from Inline Tube Co, and they look and fit great.

To prevent rusting & seizing in the future, apply a small amount of permatex anti-seize (copper or nickel based) to the male nut.

you may also want to consider replacing the original cast-iron proportioning valve with the newer brass valves -- the iron valves are often all rusted up and sometimes starting to leak.

 

[VADER]

Very good suggestions guys. Im going to go try and heat it up again, then I will buy some pb blaster. Next, I will probably just buy a new hard line from someone on the board.
Can I cut the nut off, buy a new one & reflare the line? I would only lose about 3/4".

 

[tom h]

... Can I cut the nut off, buy a new one & reflare the line? I would only lose about 3/4".

If you already have a good tube cutter and double flare tool, then YES, you could.

A good flare tool (eg, Ridgid brand) runs about $80; if you dont plan on doing a lot of tubing work in the future, it would be more cost effective to just buy a new hard line from Classic or Inline.

 

[vintageracer]

You can "rent" a flair tool from Autozone on their "Loan a Tool" program. Bring it back to the Zone and get your money back. IE Free!!! The Zones line flair kit will work just fine since you are flairing the factory "tin bundy" brake line and not flairing the aftermarket stainless steel line brake line.

That stainless steel line is HARD!

 

[VADER]

I just told bweary I would buy his replacement line, but I will try autozone tomorrow, just for ease, not so much the money. Great suggestions everyone!!

 

[VADER]

Update, I rented the tool from autozone. You really have to tighten the part that locks on to the line, I used pliers. I cut the line right at the nut, reflared it, attached it to the flex line, and have to bleed it. I bought a brake line from bweary as a backup incase I didnt flare it properly.

 

[vintageracer]

I'm glad the Zone's flair tool worked for you. Time to get out and drive the car!