Cam sensor bad? Help!

[Black Demon]

Car has been suffering through the dreaded "fishbite" condition where there is a surging/stuttering effect between 45-60mph once the converter is locked. I have adjusted the cam sensor repeatedly the past weekend trying to find its sweet spot. I got it set with no surge and minimum fishbite, but it is still noticeable. I disconnected the sensor to run in batch mode and the fishbite went away. This is the last sensor that is original on the car and I figure it is time to replace.

Do I need to buy just the sensor cap, the whole unit, or could it be an injector problem? Anyone have any experience with this that could give some advise?

 

[gnXfan]

Do you see any knock?

 

[tta1401]

My car is doing the same thing. I thought it was the converter unlocking and locking from a bad ground. Does it really bad sometimes. Maybe I was wrong about the converter theory. I would like to see what people say on this. Hmmmmm.

 

[Black Demon]

No knock - Car pulls like a freight train to 22lbs boost with no knock. Only at light throttle/cruise does the "fishbite" come in.

 

[Brian Mc]

Demon-- my car does the same thing, i did the same thing, adjusted the sensor slightly which reduced it. Still there though. Maybe all cars do it but some people don't complain. The car pulls like hell with no full throttle problems.

 

[tta1401]

How did you all come to the conclusion to adjust the cam sensor? I am kinda confused. I swore it was the converter doing it but mine does the exact same thing you guys are talking about. TIA

 

[Black Demon]

Brian,

I have adjusted and adjusted that sensor and like yours it is set at a point that bucks the least. I was surprised when I unplugged the sensor and the bucking stopped completely. I've also checked voltages at idle and everything seems to be to spec. You probably need to put the thing on an o-scope to see what it does at various rpm and determine if it is good or bad. I'll probably go ahead and get the sensor cap to see if that helps.

Where are you located? Close to Van Wyck or another area?

Mike

 

[Black Demon]

tta1401,

I saw a post about adjusting this thing and I believe Steve Wood said to adjust CCW to try to get rid of tip-in stumble. I originally thought it was my MAF, I upgraded to the 3.5 and Translator which helped tremendously, but didn't cure it. Basically I am down to 2 things on the car, cam sensor or bad/dirty injectors. Since unplugging the sensor seems to cure my problem, I am going tackle that 1st.

 

[Brian Mc]

I'm almost in Van Wyck, just north in Indian Land/Fort Mill on the weekend.

 

[tta1401]

Thanks Demon. As I think of it, it started to do it after I set the cam sensor. I guess I will have to try adjusting it again. Keep us informed if the new cap works or not. Thanks again.

 

[GNVAIR]

Check your spark plugs and wires! Make sure the gap is correct and that your wires are up to par as both can cause this.

 

[Black Demon]

Lee,

Ignition system seems to be good. New NGK's, New Jacobs wires and I switched my typeII ignition to the type 1 last week (trip to the junkyard to find it )thinking that might help. Still does it. Unplugging the cam sensor and having the car run smoothly is making me believe the sensor is on the fritz.

Anyone else want to chime in?

 

[QuickWrench]

Ummmmmm.....Folks, there's only one way to set the cam sensor properly: the Stock position.

1. Measure on a piece of masking tape and mark it at 1.45" and tape it to the Balancer at 0 degrees.
2. Bring the #1 cylinder to 25 degrees ATDC on the compression stroke. You can try bumping it with the starter, or turning the intercooler fan.
3. Turn the key ON, but leave the engine OFF.
4. Loosen the sensor with a distributor wrench or a wobble socket and extension.
5. Using a Voltmeter, measure the DC voltage of the middle wire of the cam sensor (marked B and normally blue). Do this by using the positive Voltmeter lead on the cam sensor, and the negative lead secured to a good ground.
6. The voltmeter should read 7.5+ volts; If not, SLOWLY rotate the sensor CLOCKWISE until it does.
7. Slowly rotate the sensor COUNTER-clockwise until the voltage drops.
8. Secure the sensor at the instant the voltage drops.

If your sensor is able to be adjusted in this manner, it's most likely in operational condition. After proper adjustment, diagnose other problems separately - You'll likely find that the problem has nothing to do with the cam sensor.

 

[OneLethal87GN]

I put a brand new cam sensor in my car recently. I adjusted it using the "cam tool". When it is set correctly, the car kind of jams up while trying to crank it. You have to keep adjusting it until the car will crank and run. I've tried this several times with the same results.

 

[tta1401]

TTT

Not trying to steal your post Demon but this is bothering me now. Wann find out now.

TTT