car stalled on highway, please help!

[dpok69]

THis is what i did to the car prior to it stalling in the middle of the highway:

Changed vaccum hose for black cannistor by the air filter (fuel vapor canistor?)

Filled up gas tank.

Drove it 1 mile then it died on me.

I do not hear the fuel pump prime anymore, aad the fuel pressure readout is now at 0. Is this coincidence that this happened the same day i worked on the car? I assuming now i need a new fuel pump (dont know if original is a stocker,car has 70,000miles).

Maybe there is a bad electrical connection, is there a way to start the pump from the electical connectors by the alternator to test pump?

I was gonna order the racetronic kit, but decided to post this up first to make sure its my pump that went.

Thanx for your help.

 

[John Larkin]

Apply power to the single black connector behind the alternator and the pump should run.

 

[blackbuick87]

There is nothing wrong with the pump. The tank vents to the canister. You screwed something up when you changed the line to it. Now your tank has no vent. Since your tank is full of gas, it takes a very small amount of time (1 mile) to create a vacuum in the tank as the pump pulls fuel out. Now since there is a vacuum in the tank the pump cannot pump fuel. Unscrew the cap and when this happens again and $5 says you hear a "sssssss"

 

[dpok69]

I just pulled of my gas cap, no sound. Got in my car put ign on start position, heard a weak 1 second prime(normal prime lasts 3 sec and sounds stronger like a buzz), after third time of putting ign on start no more prime sounds (prime does not sound normal).

There was a check valve on the hose, the white half of the valve is connected to the cannistor side, the other half (black side of valve) is connected to the small metal fuel line area by the throttle. If the ckjeck valve was installed backwards would the car still be able to drive like a mile?

I want to eliminate the cannistor as a problem, what the best way to do that? Remove vac line or check valve and try to start the car?

Thanx for your help.

 

[UNGN]

If you crank the car for a while and the fuel pressure is still zero (you need to build up enough oil pressure to turn the fuel pump on if the FP relay is bad), I'd go with the pump/strainer, ruptured rubber hose somewhere, clogged fuel filter, or bad fp regulator.

If tou think the car still has the stock fuel pump, change it as soon as you can afford to anyway. The stock fuel pumps were weak when these cars were new.

 

[blackbuick87]

You will only hear a sound from the gascap right after it stalls like it did to you on the highway. I would turn the checkvalve around and try to start the car. Also try starting it with the gas cap off. If it wont start then your pump is probably shot

 

[dpok69]

Okay guys, i think i have figured out the problem, but still need a little help.

I used 22 guage wire to supply power to the black connector by the alternator. The pump started to prime, and fuel pressure went back up. I started the car and it ran, but a little rough and then died 15 seconds later. I had to dig up some 10 0r 12 guage wire and then threw the 22 guage in the garbage. This time the car ran fine.

I checked the voltage of a brown or grey wire under the bumper by a connector while the car was running (a little of the wire was already exposed by the fuel tank side connector) and it was 12 volts. the other two wires i did not check( red and black).

So my conclusion is the fuel pump relay is bad or the wiring for it is bad. Now where is this relay located?

i dont think my car is hotwired, and maybe still has stock pump (but there is a black wire tie fusing the connector together under the bumper, is that stock? ). I run about 16 psi boost, 30 lb fp at idle with thrasher 92, and barely ever get knock with 02 in the ranger of 800-820. So i think the fuel pump is good adequate for now.

 

[Dan Thompson]

I have the Casper hot wire kit. I believe I mounted the relay on the DS inter fender by the other three relays.

The power comes off the back of the alternator. If its a home made mod I guess it could be anywhere.

On a stock setup I think its at the back bumper.

 

[dpok69]

Total fix: $35 for towing and 1 spare 15 amp fuse .


I pulled out my handy dandy electrical schematic book from Kirbans.

I located the relay to be the center one on the passenger side iner fender. But before locating that sumthing caught my eye. It was a picture of the fuse block. There is a 15 amp fuse for the fuel pump.

Checked my fuse and low and behold theres a burned 10 amp fuse there. I've been running with this fuse for about a year now. When i changed the vaccum hose which was dry rotted and had one pinhole in it, it probablky caused more pressure on the fuel pump and killed the 10 amp fuse. I replaced it with a 15 amp fuse.

i probably saved like $300, cause not many mechanics there would reveal that the fix was 1 minute thing, and tell me i need a new fuel pump or sumthing.

Hey fellas. Thanx for yoiur help . I hope this post helps others also.