Cautious removal of emissions control systems...

[Freddie's Buick]

Guys,

Correct me if I'm wrong please.... The THERMAC system is for 'controlled' induction of warm air for cold engine operation emissions.

If one hooks up a cold air induction system on our cars, then this defeats the OEM purpose which is highly restrictive. My verdict is if you want power, get rid of the OEM system. It will increase performance.

*(If the state one lives in does emissions control testing, leave it alone and don't do any of the following comments I write about).

The A.I.R. Pump system is also for cold engine operation emissions. In addition to this it works in conjunction with the Cat Converter during decelleration emissions. If one removes the Cat, then this renders the pump useless. Why keep the air pump system then? Get rid of it!

The EGR system is unique to the vehicles configuration. It works on and off during warm engine temperatures only. My verdict on this is still a cautious null.

The EFE system is also for rapid warming of the engine during cold engine operation. Our cars use two differant types. The electric type is not restrictive. It is beneficial.

Even the vacuum type is beneficial for quick warm up. (Though highly restrictive). Removing the vacuum type would cause a car from up north to take a longer time to warm up. This is up to an individual's taste if is to be removed.

In my opinion the only true beneficial emissions control system on our cars is the EECS system. IT SAVES GAS! It does not impede performance. And it is easy to maintain and rarely needs maintenance. This makes it a champion! Leave it alone!

 

[b4black]

Freddie, this is a great topic. Especially the "cautious" part. I think too many people rip the emissions crap off before they really know what it does and what the results will be once it's gone.


The THERMAC isn't just for cold engine operations. It's for warm engine operation as well. It's meant to hold incoming temps to about 115°F. I find that I can do without it as long as temp are above 50°F. Any colder and I get an off idle bog. For a Florida car or a summer only car, it's not needed.

I agree, it is very restrictive. If the air is cold outside, then the engine will tyr to breath through that tiny 2" tube going to the exhaust manifold. If you don't need it, do use it. I bypass it in the summer, but re-connect it when it gets cold. I think the same applies to the coolant heated carb plenum.


I also think the AIR system is for warm operation as well. It blows to the intake when cold, but the converter when warm (closed loop). The converter needs the extra oxygen to oxidize CO to CO2 and combust any unbrunt fuel.

If you remove/gut the cat or replace it with a new unit without the AIR tube, then the pump basically becomes useless as you said. I haven't removed mine yet; I'm trying to keep it stock appearing. The parasitic drag is pretty small, so I don't think it will help any to remove it.



The EGR helps keep part throttle knock down. It doesn't function at WOT, becuase engine vacuum drops to zero. I can't see any advantage to removing it either.



I don't know about the electric EFE not being restrictive. It looks like a big obstacle sitting under the primaries, but then a WOT, it's the secondaries doing all the work. It's a moot point for me. Mine were all burnt out and they cost ~$125. I've done fine without it, even in the cold.



I had to look up what EECS is. Evaporative Emission Control System - the charcoal cannister. I got rid of mine. I had to put the K&N cone somewhere.

 

[Freddie's Buick]

For $125.00 I'd kiss it goodbye too!

Though I think that the electric EFE serves an additional purpose after it helps warm the car up......made of aluminum, it keeps the carb cool after warm up.

(I got the vac type.....headers going in, OEM manifolds come off and get stored. Say goodbye to EFE for my Florida car).

Too bad you ripped out the EECS. The EECS is good! Take the time to fully understand why and you'll see what I mean. (Doug Roe covers it on the last pages of Rochester Carbs).

I'm thinking of taking out the A.I.R. and storing it. With an N/A engine I'm seeking every little bit of HP loss. One less pully, slight more HP. I'm getting rid of the fan and clutch too. I have an electric fan and thermostat sensor to keep it cool with 1900 CFM's.

My THERMAC is gone! Look at this pic and you'll see why...



http://members.telocity.com/~familiadiaz/Induction.jpg