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chip and boost

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buzzman

New Member
Joined
Oct 15, 2002
Messages
220
thanks guys, basic question, have a basically stock gn, and am new, the board has convinced me to add fuel pump, regulator, and thasher 92 for starters. question is , does the chip affect boost? Or is it only possible to change boost from stock at the wastegate?
 
The chip does affect the boost. The thrasher seems to bring a lot of boost in soon. Don't know if it affects the max PSI. That is controlled by the length of waste gate rod. You can buy an adjustable waste gate controller or spend a couple of bucks at the hardware store and make your own. Make your mistakes on the conservative side when cranking in more boost.:D
 
From What I gather, The chip has some controll of the boost through to wastegate solenoid. I think max boost is set by the length of the wastegate rod and the chip can bleed off some from there. I'm not 100% sure on this. my car has a bleeder set-up since i bought it. I'm thinking of going back to the factory set-up so the computer can pull out some boost in the higher gears. I do know that the chip indirectly dictates the amount of boost you can run by the timing advance set in it. A chip with a more agressive timing curve will force you to run less boost for a given amount on octane to avoud knock problems. On the flip side, less timing advance will allow you to run more boost.
 
A T92 will likely cause the boost to spike at 16-17 psi in first and second gear with a stock wastegate actuator. In 3rd boost will probably be around 14-15 psi.

Its a good "daily driver" chip. It will not be the fastest chip you own (unless you turn up the boost and then only to about 70 mph) but its a great chip to live with, vs. a lot of other, higher timing old tech "street" chips.

At the track, a high timing, old tech street chip will likely be quicker than a T92 with a stock set up and stock boost. The T92 will allow more boost for a given octane and may be quicker than the other chips, but only after the boost is turned up. I don't recommend any street chip for the track, though. Race tracks are for race gas and race chips. It makes these cars what they are.
 
When I put in my T-92, and had the boost hoses hooked up to the solenoid just like stock, the boost shot waaaaaay up. My gauge reads a couple psi too high I think. It's a cheapie Autogauge, so I'm getting an actual Autometer gauge.

Anyway, I just pulled the hose off the solenoid and hooked it right onto the bleeder. Only problem is, it runs that same amount of boost, or close to it, through all the gears. That's bad in high gear. So now I'm using the solenoid again, but with the bleeder after it, so I can limit the max boost. (At least in first) Havent tested it yet, so I dont know what boost it pulls in 2nd and 3rd yet. All I know is that it was overboosting for pump gas, and going to about 20 or more psi with just the chip controlling the solenoid. I think my solenoid is going on me. That bleeder valve is being used to limit it now. ;) Scott said the chip should bring the boost to about 19 psi in first gear.

The Thrasher is an awsome street chip. I'm sure it will have some effect at the track, over the stock chip. Havent ran with it yet. I know it idles and runs 100 times smoother. And spool.. boy does it spool fast.
 
Originally posted by Sleeper-6
From What I gather, The chip has some controll of the boost through to wastegate solenoid. I think max boost is set by the length of the wastegate rod and the chip can bleed off some from there. I'm not 100% sure on this. .

See, I'm of the opposite school and I tell you why:

The spring in the actuator is what, 9#? Tighten up on it and its what? Still 9#! However it will take more to MOVE it, but to HOLD it open, still takes 9#. The chip sets how much boost the solenoid bleeds off of the actuator.

Summary: Cranking down the actuator causes a SPIKE and maybe a psi or 2 of adjustment, and increases the chance of boost spiking, but the RIGHT way to adjust boost is either thru the chip, or by adding a bleeder to vent boost from the actuator. Actually, the more you crank down the actuator, not only do you raise the likelyhood of a spike, but you also increase the chance for boost creep as the actuator loses some of its swing due to being off center now.

I personally recommend you set the actuator so you have to pull it ~1/8" to get on the puck arm, then adjust the boost by venting pressure off the actuator. But thats only me....
 
now a cold air ?

thanks guys, super helpful, when going to a cold air system, how are maf signals to the ecm affected (or not) and if so how does the ecm process this info? what exactly happens? what kind of performance gains should one expect by going with a good cold air set-up? thanks again, old 60's muscle car guy trying to figure this thing out.
 
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