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Could I be destroying my tranny? Long

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VadersV6

Active Member
Joined
Sep 9, 2004
Messages
2,559
I put a D-5 converter back in a month ago. I didnt know what the old owner had done to convert to the non lock converter in there. I just swapped it and hoped my mileage would improve just based on the rpm drop going from the high stall converter that was in there before. The purple power wire in the connector that goes to the TCC lockup solenoid was removed by the old owner. I hoped that maybe the original lockup valve was in there and maybe he just disabled the lockup electronically. After putting the d-5 in and hooking the power wire back up, all was fine for awhile, except lockup didnt work unless I was under a big load, like going up a hill. My lockup switch only worked in Drive (not OD), while driving at low speeds. Over the past week, after everything heats up from driving for an hour, my tranny starts acting up. I'll leave a stoplight, and say the tranny shifts into 2nd.....the rpms will bog way down, and the more gas I give it, the more the rpms bog down. Boost goes up and up cause its under such a load. The tranny doesnt downshift. Its as if the tranny is remaining in that gear, and that lockup is trying to occur at the same time....in 2nd gear! It only starts doing it when things have really heated up. My fluid looks ok and doesnt smell burnt. Ive read somewhere that the fluid doesnt start flowing through the cooler lines until lockup has happened. Thats a lockup test I read about, actually. Pull off a cooler line, run a hose from it, going back into the filler tube. put the car on jacks and put the car in drive. Get up to about 60mph, and at some point you should feel or see the hose "jump" from the fluid pumping through the cooler lines. Thing is, if lockup isnt working, could it be that fluid is not circulating through my cooler lines, and in return not cooling my tranny fluid? I thought it was weird that this lack of downshift/lockup/bogging thing would only happen when its hot. Even if I shut the car off for a couple minutes, and start driving again, this whole problem disappears for awhile. Ive got a deal in the works right now, where Im trading my non lock Art Carr for a 9/11 converter with 1000 miles on it, and about 10 track passes on it. I want to make sure that my tranny doesnt fry before I even get the chance to put it in. Someone mentioned that it sounded like my lockup solenoid was going out, but if that were the case, why did lockup never work right, even though the solenoid ohms out fine. Even if lockup is trying to happen, shouldnt the tranny at least try to downshift? My TV cable is adjusted well. Is it possible for a non lock pump valve to allow some fluid to flow through? I had a pretty big gap between the mounting face of the converter and the flexplate. Like maybe as high as 1/2" I just pulled it together when I bolted it up. I wonder if the flexplate could be flexing far enough that the pump is coming disengaged. Seems pretty unlikely though.
 
Hi Man
This is Joe the guy you delt with for the 9/11 Converter that you are receiving from Bob. If you would of asked Bob, he would of sent you the Pump Valve, and the Lock Up Solenoid you needed. From what I rmember you will have to replace a Valve in the Pump, Re-install the Check Ball in the Input Shaft, and the Lock Up Solenoid.
BTW, did you send your Art Carr Converter?


Joe
 
10SECONDVSIX said:
Hi Man
This is Joe the guy you delt with for the 9/11 Converter that you are receiving from Bob. If you would of asked Bob, he would of sent you the Pump Valve, and the Lock Up Solenoid you needed. From what I rmember you will have to replace a Valve in the Pump, Re-install the Check Ball in the Input Shaft, and the Lock Up Solenoid.
BTW, did you send your Art Carr Converter?


Joe
I had a hard time finding someone by my work who would ship international ground. It shipped today. The checkball on the input shaft doesnt need to be removed to run lockup/non lock. You only remove it to feel that "extra shift" when it locks up. Even with the checkball in there, it still flows fine. Just not as quickly in the beginning. I really really hope there is nothing wrong with that 9/11.
 
I got your email. If you do not re-install the Check Ball you may damage the Forward Drum.
As for the 9/11. You are getting a very good Like New Converter. I know, I pulled it off the Car. :wink:

Joe :smile:
 
As far as I know, the only thing the checkball in the input shat does is slow the apply of the lock up clutch. If you remove it, when the converter locks up, it feels more positive and feels like a real shift. It is a bit hard on the lockup clutch, so if you have stock converter, you might not want to remove it. If you have a quality aftermarket converter you can probably get away with its removal.

I suppose the shock of the almost instantaneous lockup could be imparted to the input shaft and then in turn to the forward drum, but I think the shock would get absorbed along the way by the clutches and gears and so the excess stress on the drum would be negligable. However I could be wrong. We'll let the experts handle it. I believe PTS removes all of theirs,and CK leaves all of his in...
 
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