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damn knock gauge IT LIES!

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TType84

cookin with propane
Joined
May 27, 2001
Messages
1,909
alright... got a knock gauge from a friend

punch it from a stop
40psi fp i think and about 15psi = 1 green light

cool

BAM shift to second
4 greens, yellows, red, GRR...

okay so, i leave it in 2nd gear and slowly roll on the throttle.. 10psi.. its up to the last yellow EHH no.

how sensitive is this thing supposed to be?
 
Less load in first gear, less chance of detonation...Which is why the Thrasher's can get away with more boost in first gear than most chips...

Higher load on the motor in second gear and you are in a different part of the timing map and probably running a little too much timing in that area, which is why it detonates while in second...

Hopefully, you get the tuning issues worked out...

BTW, who made the knock gauge, if you don't mind revealing whose it is??? A certain vendor's knock gauge has been known to be overly sensitive and go off when it shouldn't...
 
i thoguht could be that...

jc chip with the timing at 17*

i thought that too

HOWEVER..

i got on the highway with the car in D, went WOT and i got no more than all greens, it never went past green..

and theres definitely more load in 3rd at ~85mph then in 2nd

caspers knock gauge

i think its set for "IC" knock levels.. everyone knows 15* retard is okay on hotairs :-D

basically.. what im saying is if this gauge is right i shouldve cracked a piston and probably the block year ago :-D
 
I think those guages are too sensitive. One thing I really wish I would done was watch the lights and compare them to KR #s on Direct Scan. Was there audible knock when you got into the red? Try racegas and see if it goes away to make sure it's not false knock.
 
Nick - take that thing out and throw it as far as you can.....

Then go buy a Scanmaster or DS, i.e. something that will tell you whats going on.

I've rode in 3 cars that have the "audible" knock detectors and they are a joke - seems like they start chirping @ 10*
 
My audible gauge is actually fairly consistant...I built it from the instructions on gnttype.org...Comparing it to DS and Tlink, it would only beep when DS and Tlink would show any knock counts...It would only beep like 1 beep for light and constant beep if heavy knock if I didn't get out of the pedal...I think it works okay and only costed like $15-20 to make...gonna make another one soon to put in my 87 T when I get it running...
 
well, after a little time of looking at it comparing it, i think im getting its patterns down.. mostly it goes crazy on shifts (my car shifts HARD, like i said), and calms down a little after,..

going wot @ 60mph on the highway it lights up 1 green light and stays there or drops off to none, until the car shifts to OD, at which point it goes crazy...

my car seemed to be running REALLY good last night, i was going about 20mph and punched it, it downshifted, 35mph and BAM the car slung to the right, so much for "scratching" second, it freakin DESTROYED it :-D

oh, and i had t-link but the fockers who stole my car stole the tlink cable...
 
fwiw my caspers knock gauge is perfect,one light per degree of knock on turbo link.
 
Nick, you might want to email Ken Mosher about getting another one...If you bought from him, he should have a record of the purchase and you should be able to get another one, especially with the original getting stolen...

'Splain it to him, he should be able to help you out...
 
well, if its 1 light per degree of knock, and there are, 4 green, 3 yellow, 2 red..... 9 degrees of knock isnt anything to worry about atleast not just momentary.

i bought it from a friend of mine dave carnevale.. his 84 gn never got finished, he used to post on here but not in awhile, i might ask ken about that.

thanks for the input guys!
 
I don't think that it is one light per degree, but you would have to get with Casper's and see how they explain it...
 
Easy Nocooler!!!!

I'm one of those audible guys and while Nocooler seems to think knock is a bad thing, I like to think I'm just on the edge! :D

After years of beating this thing the audible gauge does help me get out of it, and it helped me figure out I had a SMC problem.

If someone would make a scan tool that I don't have to put out and look like a ricer with cords and displays everywhere I'd be all for it.

(No offense BTW)

How about giving us the option of putting the display anywhere we want and mounting the main box in the glovebox or ashtray.

OK back to the subject....Nick get a Scanmaster.... tear it apart...and figure out a way to mount the display in the dash in the left over load leveling spot and I'll give you a hundred bucks to make me one.
 
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