Ok I need input who has swaped from a Analog gauge cluster to a Digital gauge cluster in a GN I want to make the swap but need some help , 1st what do I do about the 3 bar map sensor I need for my Alky kit ? 2nd I heard that I can leave my stock fuel sending unit and it will just be off a little (I can live with that) anybody already done this swap??
Digital dash swap
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youll need an analog dash harness and the cluster
pull the dash completely with harness , on a bench remove the digital harness , install the analog harness, reinstall the dash
the map sensor is connected to the engine harness and since you have digital i'll assume youve already sourced the 5v and ground for the connector from the tps circuit , in which case once the analog dash harness is in along with the analog cluster with the tach boost module all you need to do is to disconnect the 5v jumper feeding the map either cut the one you ran when you put the sensor in or cut the one coming from the tach/boost module behind the glove box
pull the dash completely with harness , on a bench remove the digital harness , install the analog harness, reinstall the dash
the map sensor is connected to the engine harness and since you have digital i'll assume youve already sourced the 5v and ground for the connector from the tps circuit , in which case once the analog dash harness is in along with the analog cluster with the tach boost module all you need to do is to disconnect the 5v jumper feeding the map either cut the one you ran when you put the sensor in or cut the one coming from the tach/boost module behind the glove box
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oops misread , most want out of the digital when they crap out and swap for analog
youll need the harness the cluster and the hobbs switch if you want the boost lamp to work
the maps 5v and ground will be dead at the connector under the hood once the digital harness goes in so youll need to tap those from the tps circuit , theres a thread in alky forum on '3bar map with digital dash' ,also instructions come with the razor kit for connecting with digital or gnx dash
once the dig harness is in the hobbs connector under the hood will be live so all you need to do is plug it in and attach hobbs to fender
dash removal is more time consuming than hard and if first time with a dash it could take you a weekend , once you're familiar with what there is its a couple hour job
im sure theres a thread here to do this
youll need the harness the cluster and the hobbs switch if you want the boost lamp to work
the maps 5v and ground will be dead at the connector under the hood once the digital harness goes in so youll need to tap those from the tps circuit , theres a thread in alky forum on '3bar map with digital dash' ,also instructions come with the razor kit for connecting with digital or gnx dash
once the dig harness is in the hobbs connector under the hood will be live so all you need to do is plug it in and attach hobbs to fender
dash removal is more time consuming than hard and if first time with a dash it could take you a weekend , once you're familiar with what there is its a couple hour job
im sure theres a thread here to do this
Thanks Steve,
Actually it's just wildcard on this forum
Anyway here is a link to my Cardomain website where you can see a few pictures.
Ben's 86 T-type - Charleston, South Carolina
Two things that I had to change were my boost sensor located on the right fender and the fuel sending unit (this would be a GREAT time to change the fuel pump...I did.) I drive my car alot, so I wanted my fuel gage to work correctly. My dash also had some tears from the sun beating on it. If you want a newer dash or one that is flawless...again this is a GOOD time to replace it. I always try to knock out 10 birds with one stone
I helped a friend strip out a turbo regal so I had all the parts I needed.
The dash is not difficult to remove, but I would take your time pulling it out. I'm sure you don't want to break any connectors or brackets. There are some clamps inside the dash that hold your wiring harness to the dash. You would probably be better off just pulling the dash with the wiring as one whole unit. They are nearly impossible to access with out breaking them if you don't pull the dash.
1. Disconnect Cruise Control - this can stay on the car since it doesn't have any bearing on your new instrument cluster.
2. Disconnect Speedometer cable
3. There are 3 or 4 bolts on the upper dash next to the windshield. Be careful removing the cover located there as these tend to become brittle or cracked over time. Yours may already be there.
4. Remove the 2 nuts holding your steering column up. Just let it hang down out of the way. This will also make it easier to get to the connectors on the bottom of the steering column off.
5. Center console will need to come out if you have one.
6. I pulled my front seats. This gave me some room to lay out inside the car to get up under the dash.
7. Don't know what kind of air controls you have (mech or digital) but pay attention to what you have vs what the other car had. The harness is different between the two.
8. You don't need to bother with the wiring for your windows, that can stay.
9. Lastly (for now), you will have to pull some of the wires from the fuse box. Its not difficult, a paper clip works best for me. You just have to push the release tab that holds it in.
I think I may have gone overboard on this, since you may already know most of it. I would assume you know something about this since you are about to attempt it. I am an electrician by trade so most of this is easy for me. If you have any more questions...fire away, and good luck.
Actually it's just wildcard on this forum
Anyway here is a link to my Cardomain website where you can see a few pictures.Ben's 86 T-type - Charleston, South Carolina
Two things that I had to change were my boost sensor located on the right fender and the fuel sending unit (this would be a GREAT time to change the fuel pump...I did.) I drive my car alot, so I wanted my fuel gage to work correctly. My dash also had some tears from the sun beating on it. If you want a newer dash or one that is flawless...again this is a GOOD time to replace it. I always try to knock out 10 birds with one stone
I helped a friend strip out a turbo regal so I had all the parts I needed.The dash is not difficult to remove, but I would take your time pulling it out. I'm sure you don't want to break any connectors or brackets. There are some clamps inside the dash that hold your wiring harness to the dash. You would probably be better off just pulling the dash with the wiring as one whole unit. They are nearly impossible to access with out breaking them if you don't pull the dash.
1. Disconnect Cruise Control - this can stay on the car since it doesn't have any bearing on your new instrument cluster.
2. Disconnect Speedometer cable
3. There are 3 or 4 bolts on the upper dash next to the windshield. Be careful removing the cover located there as these tend to become brittle or cracked over time. Yours may already be there.
4. Remove the 2 nuts holding your steering column up. Just let it hang down out of the way. This will also make it easier to get to the connectors on the bottom of the steering column off.
5. Center console will need to come out if you have one.
6. I pulled my front seats. This gave me some room to lay out inside the car to get up under the dash.
7. Don't know what kind of air controls you have (mech or digital) but pay attention to what you have vs what the other car had. The harness is different between the two.
8. You don't need to bother with the wiring for your windows, that can stay.
9. Lastly (for now), you will have to pull some of the wires from the fuse box. Its not difficult, a paper clip works best for me. You just have to push the release tab that holds it in.
I think I may have gone overboard on this, since you may already know most of it. I would assume you know something about this since you are about to attempt it. I am an electrician by trade so most of this is easy for me. If you have any more questions...fire away, and good luck.
