Door Pull strap screws!

FreeJack

New Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2001
Has anyone come up with a trick to keep the door pull strap screws from backing out? I've tried everything I can think of except retapping it for a larger screw!

Thanks!
 
Just use the next size up screw WITHOUT retapping anything, the hole is already too big for the current screw. That worked for me 12 years ago anyway. :)
 
I use a small drop of thread locker on each screw.
 
Actually Chris that reminds me, I used a big drop of Loctite on the larger screw threads. :)
 
The previous owner took my TR to a cheap dump to have remote doorlocks installed ( they're junk & I need to get to the salvage yard to pull some GM originals).
The "mechanic" working by the piece didn't care what he destroyed & instead of reinserting the screws in the original threads, he started a new set of threads (with two sets of threads, the screws couldn'd even be tightned without pulling the threads out of the holes).
I used a #10 nut riveted in place & #10 12 point bolts (aircraft quality) & these things hold.
 
I use two different techniques to solve the problem. For a hole that is only slightly oversize, I use a punch all around the perimeter of the old hole to close up the hole.

If the metal at the original hole is beyond repair, I use a "speednut" that will accept the original screw to repair the hole. I drill a some small holes to the side of the original hole to create a "slot" to insert a speednut in the original location. The beauty of using a speednut to make the repair is that it requires no welding, no rivets, the original screws can be used, and the speednut is hardened and should last the life of the car. If for some reason, the speednut wears out, simply slide it out and replace with a new one (about $.50).
 
Pull strap install

I do this on ALL the TR's I take the panels off of, regardless of why I'm inside the doors.
I use a UNI-BIT and that drills the original, torn up holes out to a size to use the short reach NUT-SERTS in. I use 1/4" inserts and short machine screws to fasten the straps back on.:cool: :cool:
FWIW,
The Uni Bit is a tool I find indispensable in my shop. They are the ONLY drill I use on sheetmetal, as they drill a round, CLEAN hole, leave virtually no burrs and clean up holes already ragged out.
They are not cheap, but is anything we do to these relics cheap??:mad: :mad: :D

Back to "pullin on my strap":D
 
This came up on the gnttype list a couple years ago and the answer was OEM license plate screws. Being larger they fit the stipped out holes. The big flat head does a great job holding tight on the straps and helps keep them from slipping or splitting. I went right out and replaced all four screws in my doors and they have remained tight for about four years of pretty heavy use. Simple, cheap, works great.
 
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