mike_stahl2000
Active Member
- Joined
- Mar 1, 2013
- Messages
- 166
I tried doing a search on how to change out the motor mounts only to find people also asking and really no input on how to do it on a GN that is 100% intact. So to answer your questions, yes, it can be done without removing the starter, exhaust, ect... The driver side was the easiest I will say that. I just purchased HR parts n stuff poly engine and trans mounts. I had access to a post lift which made it a lot easier than laying on your back. Someone has had the motor out of my car at some point so the bolt sizes were random, just have a 5/8", 11/16", 15mm, 16mm, and a 18mm deep socket handy. Also a 3/8" impact, 12" impact extension and those same sizes in a impact swivel socket. Medium pry bar, also have the same size combination wrenches handy. Throw all that stuff on a roll cart and it should save you the aggravation of running back and forth to the tool box. I also had a dead man stand available with a 6" 2x4" block. Use that to support the engine by the pan. Keep clear of the oil pan drain bolt. Remove the driver side first so you get into the rhythm of how it's done on the easy side. I pulled out the two bolts holding it to the block, then the long bolt. The long one is what you will most likely want to use the impact and long extension on. Some times it is still clamped around the clam shell a little so use the prybar to pop it off. May take a couple of taps with a hammer on the end of the pry bar to knock it off the clam shell. Fish it out towards the front. May have to finesse some hoses to get the old one out. The new HR mount slides in a little easier. You will need a 3/8" Allen socket if I remember right. Put some lock tite on the bolts and affix it to the block. I found it easier to leave the long bolt out till you get the other side all set. Now for the side that is a bit of a pain. Make sure the battery negative is disconnected and remove the main wire from the starter. I think that was a 5/8", I used a socket on a small 1/4" ratchet with a flex handle. Have a good ratchet with 80 teeth as space is limited. Remove the bolts holding the pass side mount to the block. The bolt towards the front is the worst but it can be done if you have a long flex handle ratchet. Then undo the long bolt. The last guy installed the bolt from the starter side so that took some finesse to remove, I pulled the bolts out for the clam shell and I was able to pull the long bolt out then. I then had to put one or two bolts back into the clam shell so I could knock the mount off of the clam shell. Then I removed the clam shell bolts again. I slid the clam shell out towards the starter. It slid right out with no issues. I was then able to finesse the mount out, it took some twisting and turning but finally got it out. I then put the HR mount in and bolted it to the block. After that I was able to slide the clam shell back in and bolt it up. You may have to raise the motor up a little to help with the process of the pass side. Once the mount and clam shell were in bolted up, I then lowered the motor back down and it just seemed to fall into place with minor help of pointed end of the seal puller/pry bar to get the hole to line right up. I slid the long bolt in from the front and also added large fender washers with nylock nuts onto them and torqued everything down to the specs in the instructions. I hope this is able to help someone. And remove some of the hype about ripping half the car apart to do it. It took me about 2 hours to knock this out. Maybe a little longer if you have to do it on a creeper. If so be sure to chock the rear wheels, use stands. And good luck.
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