Flywheel _ Holding Stationary

[Mad_Trbo]

I am about to trade out the stock transmission for a CK performance unit. This will be my first time and I was wondering if there were any tricks to the trade in holding the flywheel still when trying to loosen the three bolts holding the torque converter to the flywheel?

Any other tips would be much appreciated. I was reading one post which indicated it is smarter to drain the pan prior to dropping the unit due to bathing in oil...

Where does it come from if you don't drain it, torque converter, disconnected lines for cooling?

Again thanks for help...

 

[Instro84]

just did mine a couple weeks ago, i just put on a glove and held it while my son did the bolts. some use a screwdiver or somethind in one of the hole and wedge it against the block.hth

 

[jcj53115]

A flywheel wrench works great but usually you can get a good grip in the flywheel with one hand and break em loose, if not wedge a screwdriver in the teeth and us the block for leverage to hold it in place.

As for the trany fluid bath, it is wise and make's a lot less of a mess just to drain it first. If you get a bath it will come from the cooler lines, outputshaft, but most will usually come out the dipstick hole, mush easier just to drain it and save the headache and hassel of clean up afterwards

 

[Hacksaw]

I, or a helper, wedge a prybar between the ring gear on the flywheel and the block, while someone loosens (or tightens on installing it) the TC bolts.

If you don't drain it, you can get fluid spilling from the trans at either the rear main area, or the cooler line fittings. It will also make it slightly lighter. After you drain the fluid you only need to put a few pan bolts back on the hold the pan on to protect the valve body during removal. Plus, if you send the core back you will need to drain it anyhow.

Rent or borrow a real transmission jack. Just a block of wood on a normal floor jack is too risky to you and the trans.

-Mike H.

 

[Mad_Trbo]

Thanks for the tips and I have been debating whether or not I should rent a transmission jack or not, probably does make the job easier.

Thanks for the feedback.


With the new transmission goes a new torque converter I cant wait to see what this 66 ball bearing trubo can do.

 

[83ttypecooled]

Hi,
I guess you don't have a compressor or air tools, so you'll have to suffer. No better way that I can think of than to zip 'em off with a good gun. On install, I feather the gun, then go over it with a torque wrench. 45 ft lbs is plenty, never had one loosen on me. Good luck!

 

[Mad_Trbo]

I do have air tools, but I have never done a transmission on a domestic car. I figured there wouldn't be enough space to fit a tool. What do you use an air wrench?

 

[Marc87GN]

I am about to trade out the stock transmission for a CK performance unit. This will be my first time and I was wondering if there were any tricks to the trade in holding the flywheel still when trying to loosen the three bolts holding the torque converter to the flywheel?

Any other tips would be much appreciated. I was reading one post which indicated it is smarter to drain the pan prior to dropping the unit due to bathing in oil...

Where does it come from if you don't drain it, torque converter, disconnected lines for cooling?

Again thanks for help...

It's smart to drain the pan, but not absolutely necessary. The fluid will only come out of the input shaft if the trans is tilted forward. I didn't drain anything when I just swapped shortblocks and didn't take a bath even when changing converters as well. If it stays level, the fluid will not come out. Anyway, to get the bolts out you just need to shock the wrench with your hand or a small mallet and once broken loose, they come right out If you just try to He-man them out, of course it will move, but if you shock the wrench, they will let go and the flexplate won't move.