Getting FED up! with my hot air.

[Chatmanboy]

First it was oil, knock, now rpms. AGAIN...

Ive being having trouble with the rpm. it (red lines) on the dash tach and runs like it is. Some say the dash tach is incorrect which i believe also because my scanmaster and after market tach reads different and the same as each other. At first i was having this problem just drive (D) when i hit about 60 it red lines so i put it in (OD) on the freeway. I adjusted the TV cable but didnt do anything. But its still drive good until i reached 60 mph.

So i send a turbo to get upgraded to a TA33 and while it was off i plugged the coolant lines. i get the upgraded back apply it and now on the tach it reads high rpm and it seem as if its slipping in 1/2nd gear and not boosting right. and i go wide open throttle and it hesitate and it red lines and i only get 7-10 pounds of boost.

The scan and aftermarket tach read 2/3000 rpm yet the dash tach reads 6000 and the car runs hard like it is. Can this be a transmission problem? or what!?

Codes flashing is 23 and 15. 23 is cuz MAT not hooked and 15 is coolant low which came up when i changed the thermostat to 160 so im switching it back to stock.

Sorry about the long post, but this car is giving me a headache w/all the money im putting into it.

 

[novaderrik]

if you were buzzing 6000 rpm at a regular basis like your stock tach says- i think that's what you said- then your crankshaft would be laying on the ground in several pieces.
other than that, i have no idea what the rest of your post was all about..

 

[bmackinnon]

The stock tach is worthless... disregard whatever it says as BS.....who gives a $hit what it says??? why did you adjust the TV cable?? Pull it all the way forward and floor the gas pedal with no mat underneath to ratchet it back to the correct position.... and then maybe tighten it 1 click...done....

If it won't pull wot, have you verified the fp is rising with boost? That is the most common 'falls on it's face' problem... perhaps the fuel pump is dying?

Do you have an aftermarket boost gage? All comments about the tach equally apply to the factory boost gage.

You upgraded the turbo, so are you sure it's just not running $hitty enough to not build boost in the first place??

Maybe you should just sell the POS and enroll in a remedial english class.... (sorry, this board is getting on my last nerve...)

 

[Chatmanboy]

First off bmack or whatever your name is can save that comment and just not respond. I'm typing this on my phone. Plus this not an English class. All u had to say was can u word it better. But thanks for the lil info you gave me. DA

Sorry for confusing u novaderrik but this is what I meant. I was told by another member to check the TV cable to c if its in the right position. Due to the fact I was getting high rpm at 60 MPH in drive. Now my stock tach is doing this in 1/2 gear.yes I have a aftermarket and it reads different. YET IT RUNS HARD AS IF IT THE STOCK IS CORRECT! So im wondering can this be a transmission problem to where its not switching gears right. Or maybe something with the fuel like the rude a** said?

 

[BRAD_PADGETT]

I have a few ideas. Mentally you need to completely ignore the tach and boost gauge in the dash. If this does not work but some black electrical tape over the two idiot lights. Set the Scanmaster to read rpm and make sure the tach gauge reads the same. Also check the temp guage in the same manner. The knock gauge and the Scanmaster knock reading will not be the same. The knock gauge reads the knock signal to the ECM and the Scanmaster reads the response by the ECM to the knock signal.

That said, your problem is still not clear. I had an improperly adjusted TV cable and the car went into high rpm and would not shift into second gear. Check your rpm and let us know what they are on shift from 1/2 and 2/3. Readjust the TV cable as well. Push the d button in, pull the cable and then push the gas pedal to the floor.

I would also verify the IAC setting.

What does your scanmaster show as BLM? This will help alot.

The next test would be fuel pressure. Tape a fuel pressure gauge to the windshield and drive the car. Fuel pressure should go up 1 ib per one lb of boost. Anything less means the fuel pump is on the way out.

Let us know. Brad

 

[Jerryl]

Been there, done that . . . .
Stick to scanmaster.

You need to have the car at 60mph, read the rpm and calulate.
With stock drivetrain in "D", you will see around 2700 on the scanmaster, if memory serves me correctly.
(I know the numbers are not axact but close enough for you to get an idea)

If you see a BIG variance, you will need to verify your speedo, and make sure the TC locks.

To verify the speedo;
Drive 60mph on the highway. You should cover that in about 1 minute.
That is your baseline.

It is important that your speedo is correct, otherwise it affects the fueling and lock-up.

 

[Chatmanboy]

@ Brad
Well the BLM at idle is 133
Going from 1-2 gear rpm read 2450 and 2-3 was 3525. The scan and aftermarket tach was the same.

But i do believe it is the fuel pump because i didnt get a walbro pump, i got a High flow which was cheaper and i see why. Because it "falls on it faces" when i go WOT! When im only at like 5#s of boost.

Also with the tv cable, i was doing it wrong at first but now i got it right, and it racheted back in its place thanks!