How do u stop your car??

[87NAT]

I am enjoying my new 6776DBB turbo that I just installed but I sure am having a problem stopping the car. I have a vacuum set up that I put in last year but I never really put it to the ultimate stopping test as I have the last few weeks. The new combo really gets up and goes a whole lot quicker and I find that between stop lights I have trouble stopping the car. I dont make WOT passes unless I have a long street with no side roads which was the case yesterday. The car got up to well over 110 mph faster than I thought and the the light trurned red on me. I barely stopped it before going into the intersection.

My question is this: Should I engage the pedal for a few seconds and let off then re-engage it again until the car stops. I heard this keeps the brakes from heating up and fading.(This method didnt work well for me:frown: ) OR, should I just put the pedal down and hold it until it stops? Which would be better. My brakes work well to answer any inquires but I dont think they are doing a great job when my brick gets up to those speeds and needs to stop real fast. I dont have a problem at the track because I have a long time to shut it down...this problem has reared it head on the street...where I really need them. Any input would be appreciated.

 

[Junior Samples]

i'll be converting over to vac due to this powermaster with multiple probs and i'll cross drill my rotors which if you ask me its like night and day.

if it was cost efficient id toss it out here on this site that i do have set up to drill em but i go through bits where as you can buy em for 70 each or so.

not that this reply was any great help but once you go with the drilled rotors you'll be very pleased

 

[87NAT]

Thanks for the reply...slotted/drilled rotors might be something for me in the future.
I was just wondering whats the best method to stop the car without brake fade: Hold the pedal till it stops or take your foot on/off in intervals until it slows down.

 

[wbrophy]

My street car is fairly fast like yours, I would go to larger front brakes like the s-10 blazer, etc. and when you got to stop, you got to stop, so letting off the brakes will eat up stopping distance.:biggrin:

 

[ChavoLC2]

Stop light

One I think you're crazy 87GN to be driving that fast approaching or going thru an Intersection, good way to kill someone at 100+ miles an hour not to mention yourself. They actually confinscate your car now days if caught drag racing with the potential off losing it. Granted we all have street raced and have risked it all, we however try and find a safe place if we are gonna put the hammer down that we can follow one another then let traffic clear and line up, we have a couple places that we can race that has no side streets actually has concrete barriers and the lights are more then a 1/2 mile apart. My brick with PM brakes I prayerfully stop the lead sled it can be flat scary. This is off the subject but I actually have some old school Centerlines Telstars (rears drilled)I'm going to sell to buy a manual braake set up. Get her drilled fixed or whatever but most of all be careful

 

[zeus87gn]

In case anyone is curious, this has nothing to do with the P/M vs vacuum setup for a master cylinder. It is the stock 10" disk brakes that are the failing point of the brake system in our TR's.

87NAT,
You are experiencing it firsthand. I have had the same expeerience.
To answer your question directly, I would think it is best to pump the brakes as fast as you can, if you can, given the situation. That brief moment of release that the pads will experience will cool them quite a bit and help to gain more braking power.

Once I get my 17's, I'm getting the biggest d@mn rotors that I can squeeze in there.

HTH
Z

 

[TKGN1]

I would have to agree with zeus87gn, the stock 10" brakes fall short when under hard braking. I have gone to the LS1 setup on all 4 corners of the car and there is absolutly no comparison with any stock size brakes.
I almost lost the car on a short 1/4 track when I had the stock brakes, thats when I went with bigger binders. Scary thing is under a true panic stop you are going to try and shove your foot through the floor trying to stop and those stock brakes are gonna give up:frown:.

87NAT, not to hijack, but how ya like that 67BB? I've got one on order and have heard nothing but good about it.

 

[zeus87gn]

I have gone to the LS1 setup on all 4 corners of the car and there is absolutly no comparison with any stock size brakes.

Now that's what I'm talkin about!

 

[vader87]

S10 fronts and rears. No problems stopping!

 

[SS/GNX]

I knew you could do the fronts from the s10s, but you can do the rears too??? Are they drum or disk?

 

[JDSfastGN]

I've got the 12" LS1 brakes up front with S10 rear wheel cylinders in the back. I just upgraded to vacuum brakes. So far I'm pretty happy with the vacuum. I liked the PM but i just couldn't afford the upkeep. I can stop from triple digits in no time. 87NAT, does the pedal feel hard when you first step on them? If so maybe your vacuum check valve at the booster is bad.

 

[V6RACER]

Here's what I just added.. You can see the stock rotors starting to turn black from stopping 3550 lbs at 140+ mph..

 

[zeus87gn]

Jason,
Have you road tested that setup yet?
Are you still using the PowerMaster?
Just curious as to the performance enhancement with the same size rotor.
Patrick