This is Probably worth writing up. I wrote this but there were several contributing author's on TB.com including Razor, Boost231, Nick Mccale.
The original thread in General Tech is here.
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/push-lock-vacuum-lines.311575/
This is a good conversion and it will save you some trouble because it replaces the standard tie wrap for most fittings. Buy good fittings though like Legris brand I've had a few cheaper fittings become heat fatigued and give up their hold on the hose (giggity). An occasional pull test for the fittings are advised if you go this way.
This started after during the update of my combo in 2010/11 at that time I was keeping the factory vacuum block and metal lines. The system was a hybrid system with Push to lock on the FPR, MAP, Compressor housing, Waste-gate actuator and waste-gate solenoid.
The Evap canister and connection to the EGR and Vacuum block on the firewall were still slip on hose.
At the time I had switched to the Granger Boost control solenoid which is 1/8NPT so Everything in my system is based on 1/4" Nylon line and 1/4 X 1/8 NPT fittings.
I use the standard adjustable FPR from Kirban's that everyone uses if you remove the existing vacuum fitting you can drill and tap the hole for 1/8NPT (take the regulator apart first though. The push lock will fit on there and clear the lock nut (just barely). To attached the other end to the factory metal line I heated the Vinyl hose and pushed it over the barb using a adhesive lined shrink wrap fitting to lock it in place. Not sure why I put the splice in there but it seemed like a good idea at the time. Probably because my hose was too short.
The Waste-gate solenoid was from Granger and it already had 1/8NPT fittings on it so I just removed the nipples (giggity) and replaced them with 1/4 X 1/8NPT I used right angle fittings to make hose routing easier. You can also see in this the changes to the MAP sensor. There I used a 1/4" compression fitting to adapt the MAP to push-lock fittings.
For my Boost gauge it uses a small vinyl line. I glued a piece of 1/4" push lock hose over it with epoxy and used a adhesive lined shrink wrap tube for reinforcement. I used a push lock Tee to splice it into the MAP line.
On the turbo side the pressure fitting is 1/8 NPT that's just a right angle push-lock. The stock waste-gate actuator gets a compression fitting the barb is the same size as the MAP 1/4 X 1/8NPT.
That kind of finishes up on phase 1 of this. PCV, Evap, and Factory AC/Charcoal canister are rubber line.
Kind of still looks stock
But fast forward to fall 2012 when the PCV went out and started leaking so I relocated it to a garbage can. Which left me with the opportunity to go back and rethink this. Without the EGR there are only 2 more barb type fittings in the system.
I started with a new Vac block with that takes 1/8 NPT fittings. TR Custom parts sells one like this one but this one came from Ebay.
The the Charcoal canister is a 1/4 barb It gets the same treatment as the EGR
The vacuum T on the firewall is an odd size. You'll have to file on it or try some different barb fittings I wound up with a 3/16 compression fitting.
Those two circuits have a check valve in them you'll need to incorporate in. If you heat the 1/4 hose you should be able to push it over and lock it down with shrink wrap
I have a couple of 1/8npt female brass check valves with Viton inserts I may try if this doesn't work.
I had 6 ports on the new block and no vacuum brakes so I could use all 6 so I got rid of the got rid of the t fitting where my boost gauge was spliced into the MAP line. The 6 ports are
1) MAP
2) Boost Gauge
3) PCV
4) Evap
5) A/C controls
6) FPR
That only leaves the PCV which is 3/8" Silicone hose and a 3/8X1/8NPT barb fitting. I use a check valve that fits in the PCV grommet which I may be able to convert if the mood strikes me so stay tuned.
To DO. At some time I'm going to put a compression fitting over my boost gauge line and replace the glued on connector.
The original thread in General Tech is here.
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/push-lock-vacuum-lines.311575/
This is a good conversion and it will save you some trouble because it replaces the standard tie wrap for most fittings. Buy good fittings though like Legris brand I've had a few cheaper fittings become heat fatigued and give up their hold on the hose (giggity). An occasional pull test for the fittings are advised if you go this way.
This started after during the update of my combo in 2010/11 at that time I was keeping the factory vacuum block and metal lines. The system was a hybrid system with Push to lock on the FPR, MAP, Compressor housing, Waste-gate actuator and waste-gate solenoid.
The Evap canister and connection to the EGR and Vacuum block on the firewall were still slip on hose.
At the time I had switched to the Granger Boost control solenoid which is 1/8NPT so Everything in my system is based on 1/4" Nylon line and 1/4 X 1/8 NPT fittings.
I use the standard adjustable FPR from Kirban's that everyone uses if you remove the existing vacuum fitting you can drill and tap the hole for 1/8NPT (take the regulator apart first though. The push lock will fit on there and clear the lock nut (just barely). To attached the other end to the factory metal line I heated the Vinyl hose and pushed it over the barb using a adhesive lined shrink wrap fitting to lock it in place. Not sure why I put the splice in there but it seemed like a good idea at the time. Probably because my hose was too short.
The Waste-gate solenoid was from Granger and it already had 1/8NPT fittings on it so I just removed the nipples (giggity) and replaced them with 1/4 X 1/8NPT I used right angle fittings to make hose routing easier. You can also see in this the changes to the MAP sensor. There I used a 1/4" compression fitting to adapt the MAP to push-lock fittings.
For my Boost gauge it uses a small vinyl line. I glued a piece of 1/4" push lock hose over it with epoxy and used a adhesive lined shrink wrap tube for reinforcement. I used a push lock Tee to splice it into the MAP line.
On the turbo side the pressure fitting is 1/8 NPT that's just a right angle push-lock. The stock waste-gate actuator gets a compression fitting the barb is the same size as the MAP 1/4 X 1/8NPT.
That kind of finishes up on phase 1 of this. PCV, Evap, and Factory AC/Charcoal canister are rubber line.
Kind of still looks stock
But fast forward to fall 2012 when the PCV went out and started leaking so I relocated it to a garbage can. Which left me with the opportunity to go back and rethink this. Without the EGR there are only 2 more barb type fittings in the system.
I started with a new Vac block with that takes 1/8 NPT fittings. TR Custom parts sells one like this one but this one came from Ebay.
The the Charcoal canister is a 1/4 barb It gets the same treatment as the EGR
The vacuum T on the firewall is an odd size. You'll have to file on it or try some different barb fittings I wound up with a 3/16 compression fitting.
Those two circuits have a check valve in them you'll need to incorporate in. If you heat the 1/4 hose you should be able to push it over and lock it down with shrink wrap
I have a couple of 1/8npt female brass check valves with Viton inserts I may try if this doesn't work.
I had 6 ports on the new block and no vacuum brakes so I could use all 6 so I got rid of the got rid of the t fitting where my boost gauge was spliced into the MAP line. The 6 ports are
1) MAP
2) Boost Gauge
3) PCV
4) Evap
5) A/C controls
6) FPR
That only leaves the PCV which is 3/8" Silicone hose and a 3/8X1/8NPT barb fitting. I use a check valve that fits in the PCV grommet which I may be able to convert if the mood strikes me so stay tuned.
To DO. At some time I'm going to put a compression fitting over my boost gauge line and replace the glued on connector.
