well I think a sign that the MAF is goin bad is that the engine will seem like it stumbles..
And one test that alotta people reccomend is that "tap" test..just take something solid like the end of a screwdriver and tap the maf with it.
If the engine seems like it stumbles or something of the sort then I guess the MAF works..if it doesnt then I guess the MAF doesnt work?
Someone back me up on this..Is this correct?
One way is to tap on it with something like a screwdriver,
while the engine is idling.
Any stumbling or stalling means its bad.
Otherwise, I think you need a lab scope
well I thought if it stumbled when you tapped it then it was good..cause if it wasnt working then it'd act the way it was when you tapped it and nothing would happen..lol wait for someone more experienced to come along..but topfuel is prolly right
Best I can tell,
about 18-19 in first and second, then it creeps up past 20 in third.
I'm not sure if this creep is designed in the chip, or if its a boost
creep problem.
My Autometer guage only reads up to 20, and the needle goes
to what I "think" is about 22psi.
Ok cause that's the kinda time I wanna run.
Do you think that w/my mods if I used a chip, got some drag radials, and made the boost around 22-23psi that I'd pull off around that kinda time?
It seems like every last one these cars is different,
one will work well with a certain setup and one wont.
What kind of numbers are you running right now?
It sounds like you've got the right stuff to run 12:50's.
However, I run a 26x10 MT ET Drag slick at the track,
not drag radials.
And keep in mind a huge variable we all deal with,
ambient air temp. These cars really start haulin a$$
when its cold outside
It was about 57 degrees out with low humidity when it
ran that 12:52.
COLD AIR IS GOOD!!!