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ignition control module

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87TIGN

Death by boost
Joined
Aug 21, 2006
Messages
358
Hey guys,
I have an 87 GN (see sig below) and I just got done installing a big mouth intake kit on it and took it for a dirve. After about 45 mins of running it, and it ran GREAT, I pulled onto the highway and opened her up. As soon as I got off the throttle it backfired and began to sputter a bit. I tried to give it some throttle and it would just bog down. It died and I coasted off to the side unable to restart it. It would catch and than die and than nothing as my battery started to die. When it shut down I had perfect readings on everything, about 25-30 psi on oil press (normal for this car), 100-120 on the tranny, about 160 on the coolant, 800-900 EGT's, about 37 psi on the fuel rail. I figured it had to be an ignition deal because my fuel pressure was great off the rail and I could smell fuel when I tired to crank it and it wouldnt start. Obviously I have plenty of air with the Big Mouth kit on so the third thing for a car to run is spark so thats what I was gonna diagnose. I had a buddy tow me home and I changed the coil pack on it because I had an extra layin around and still nothing. I checked the oil for gas or coolant in case something huge happened and just oil on the dipstick thank god. Does this sound like an ignition control module problem?
Thanks
-Andrew
 
changed the crank position sensor. Nothin..... is there a way to test the ICM?
 
Did you do a compression test to be sure you didn't pop a head gasket ?
 
I have not done a compression test yet but I have RJC headgaskets. I am hoping that it is not a head gasket issue. However I will definitly keep that in mind and check that out. What is optimal compression with about 8.5:1?
Andrew
 
possibly a cam sensor?
Sounds like the same thing that happened to me.(Backfire & died) But I was into the throttle. Check the interrupter ring on your cam sensor. The problem was the tab broke on mine. Used this to fix. CamSensor Works great.
 
If you were just messing with the intake I would make sure the maf is still connected to the inlet hose or plugged in. On my car if I lift the throttle abruptly under big boost the intake hose can sometimes come off.
 
Thanks for all the help guys. I am gonna just replace the ICM and cross my fingers. I will post my findings
-Andrew
 
Autozone can test your ignition control module believe it or not i used to work there they have the machine
 
Autozone can test your ignition control module believe it or not i used to work there they have the machine

The test/machine AutoZone has/uses is worthless/meaningless on a TR ignition module... Before you just buy a new module, as mentioned above, pull the cap off the cam sensor and see if the tab on the interupter ring broke (ring will turn freely, if so there's your problem), this is another fairly frequent occurance with similar symptoms.... surely someone in your area has a spare module to swap in for a quick check.... :confused: and search 'module' in the for-sale section and post request in parts wanted.... I'm sure someone has one reasonable....:wink:
 
The tester at Oreilly auto or Autozone will test your module just fine, if they know how to use it, so go have it tested, and check your cam sensor. Go to your local upull it get a module have it tested. I paid 5 buck and got a good module the first time. Results may every. They are available new at Oreilly for $172.99 thats a BWD CBE100 part # or AC delco D1996 for $244
 
The tester at Oreilly auto or Autozone will test your module just fine, if they know how to use it, so go have it tested, and check your cam sensor. Go to your local upull it get a module have it tested. I paid 5 buck and got a good module the first time. Results may every. They are available new at Oreilly for $172.99 thats a BWD CBE100 part # or AC delco D1996 for $244

Bull$h!zzle... How many bad TR modules have you tested w/your autocrap tester? I've personally had 3 bad modules tested (2 brand new aftermarket, one old/bad AC Delco) at AZ that were 'fine' according to their tester. BTW, let me know which boneyard you go to that has tons of Turbo Regals sitting around with good modules for $5..:rolleyes: The type I modules are TR specific...:rolleyes: And the aftermarket O'Crappy/Autocrap/Advance Autocrap modules are hit and miss at best.... Though occasionally you'll get one that 'works'... for a while.... :wink:
 
All you have to do is have them run the test like three times because if you module sometimes works then craps out on you it will give you a false reading saying its good until you test it the second /third time ..that and find the person there that actually knows a lil bit about how to work on a car not the i just wanna job retard and youll be just fine like i said i used to work ther and lots of my coworkers werent the brightest markers in the box...
 
I got it tested and it tested fine. Havent checked the cam ring yet will do that tommorow weather permitting. If i get the ring from RJC can I just rebuild my current sensor? Or do I need a new cap?
 
I got it tested and it tested fine. Havent checked the cam ring yet will do that tommorow weather permitting. If i get the ring from RJC can I just rebuild my current sensor? Or do I need a new cap?

Fine, huh....:rolleyes: imagine that..... :rolleyes: Well.... maybe it is.... (then again, maybe not...).... pull the cam sensor cap and check that first... If the tab broke, you can just fix it with RJC's kit... shouldn't need a new cap, shouldn't need to move/remove the cam sensor body... that way you won't screw up the proper setting.... :wink: I'm still betting module...but... also double/triple check the maf hose from the maf to the turbo, and the couplers from the turbo/intercooler/throttle body... guess it could possibly be the maf itself also.... unplug it and see if it at least starts.... it should start w/o the maf, and run real crappy....
 
Bull$h!zzle... How many bad TR modules have you tested w/your autocrap tester? I've personally had 3 bad modules tested (2 brand new aftermarket, one old/bad AC Delco) at AZ that were 'fine' according to their tester. BTW, let me know which boneyard you go to that has tons of Turbo Regals sitting around with good modules for $5..:rolleyes: The type I modules are TR specific...:rolleyes: And the aftermarket O'Crappy/Autocrap/Advance Autocrap modules are hit and miss at best.... Though occasionally you'll get one that 'works'... for a while.... :wink:


No sadly your wrong which I'm sure is not a first for you!!

1. You don't just have to use the module off a Turbo Regal. I mean come on GM never used the same parts on different cars. Try 87-88 Buick Century for example, they used the same D1996 Delco module (if they had the Magavox setup) as the 86-87 GNs (some Century’s used the type II which will directly plug up to your harness) that’s just 1 example I could go on and will be happy to if you need the info. So yes I could go today and come back with at every least 5 or 6 modules it cost me 2 bucks to get in and $5 for the module so I guess I lied 7 buck.

2. I don't know what type of testers Auto Zone uses I don't go there unless I need neon lights or steering wheel covers, but the one I use at Oreilly works fine I've tested 100 or more and never had someone come back and say it was my module after the tester said it was good and I never had someone come back after the module tested bad and said it was good either.. (no not all Turbo Regal modules or the same part # but 4 or 5 D1996 Delcos anyway. The trick is you need to test them 3 or 4 times to get the module hot because sometimes they work fine cold but once they get hot they break down. Yeah I know your Casper module tester does a good job but it's not the only one ever made that works!

Lastly my tip for the day. "It may help next time if you try to know what your talking about"
 
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