just got a FWD turbo 3.8L buick hybrid

nuc79

New Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2004
Hey, since this is my first post in here, I figured i'd start it with a "hello", some background, and a couple questions.

A Navy friend of mine, MM2(SS) and certified nuclear welder, was transferred to Seattle and decided to leave his turbo hybrid behind. So I've inherited it.

I'll leave the chassis as a mystery until I post pics of the engine. Because you won't believe it if you see it.

True, the block casting itself is not GN\TType. After all, it's FWD. The block is a '87 FWD 3.8 "vin code 3" with factory roller rockers. Everything else engine-wise is '87 GN attire. He said the weak link in the setup was the FWD tranny, and that the torque of the motor kept cracking the downpipe.

I'll try to post pictures tonight or tomorrow, and the complete list of the mods he gave me with the car.

One question, I got a SES light driving it home last night, and found it to be a code 31 (wastegate solenoid). I can't seem to locate it on the engine. I know on GNs, it's bolted to the valve cover w/ 2 wires going to it.

Any suggestions? Also, the car seemed to stutter (almost like a miss) when I stepped on it and it started to boost. A buddy following me said "black exhaust, rich smelling". Correlation to the code 31 maybe? My friend told me on the phone from Seattle that he thought it might have been an injector, but that wouldn't make sense (with black,rich exhaust)....
 
I would follow the vac line (lines on an 84-85) from the wastegate backwards.
 
I would post in the tech section if I were you. This is a new forum and there's a lot more traffic there and your bound to get a lot of helpful suggestions.
 
That code won't make it run strange. There should be a small black solonoid two wire connector. I'm guessing he took that off and left the connector open. That'll set the code. He's proably got the vacc line going from the discharge side of the turbo to the wastegate actuator thus leaving the wastegate solonid not being used and proably thrown away.

So.. what's this engine in? Buick Century? somthing like that.? Where's the pic's?
:)
 
Originally posted by UR50SLO
That code won't make it run strange. There should be a small black solonoid two wire connector. I'm guessing he took that off and left the connector open. That'll set the code. He's proably got the vacc line going from the discharge side of the turbo to the wastegate actuator thus leaving the wastegate solonid not being used and proably thrown away.

So.. what's this engine in? Buick Century? somthing like that.? Where's the pic's?
:)

Haha, very close to a Century. It's actually a 1986 Oldsmobile Ninety-Eight Regency Brougham. Complete with digital Auto Climate control.

And yeah, you were right about the wastegate solenoid plug. it was hanging loose. I installed an adjustable boost controller that had been previously disconnected. Any way to put a resistor across the solenoid plug or something and let the computer "think" it's connected to keep the SES off?

I'll post specs and hopefully pics tonight, if I can get the DP finished and roll it out of the garage. The fuel filter ended up being the culprit of the car running like crap.

Also had to make some new brake and fuel hard line that was rusted out by the clogged fuel filter dripping gas down onto them for who knows how long. That was fun, i learned to use a double-flare tool.
 
What does this aftermarket boost controler look like? Is it a bleeder valve? If it were me.. I'd run a vaccume line from the small brass fitting on the outlet side of the turbo to the wastegate actuator. I'd then set the tension of the wastegate actuator with the threads to be just seated with the small rod coming out of the exhaust side on the stock elbow that go's to the downpipe. I use that for boost controll. If the actuator is not threaded you can make it so with stuff from the local hardware store or purchase one from the vendors here (40.00)

To keep your SES light off you'l have to put the stock wastegate controller back on. It does not have to be plugged into any vaccume.. just plugged into the harness. You might be able to read the resistance of the two terminals and put a resistor that's got the same value in there... That in theroy would work.

Sound to me like you've got a big couch to drive around in that'll spank a mustang!
Post pic's when you can!

~Scott
 
Hey nuc79,

You aren't here in good old Rotten Groton are you? I'm no nuke welder, but I used to be an RO. I'd be happy to take a look at the car for you.
 
Top