K Member questions

[mark b]

My motor is out and I was cleaning up the engine bay and cross member. Someone said I should replace it with a new K member. Not knowing what that was, I checked out a few sites.

It appears there are 2 kinds: one that includes spring pads and motor mounts and another that doesn't. Here's where I could use some education...

What does the one without the pads and mounts do? I thought it would replace the whole cross member, but obviously not. Is it to stiffen and control the front end?

I also see control arms with shock pads, so if you get the one without the mounting pads, I assume you use these arms?

If you get hte k-member with the mounting pads, you use tubular arms without pads? It looks like they are made for coil-over springs, you it sounds like you need to buy a complete setup(?)

So basically, what's the different kind of setups you can use and the advantages/disadvantages? This really looks like something to do when the motor is out, so now would be the time.

Thanks in advance for any help!

 

[TTA89]

From how I understand it there are two setups. If you go with a Tubular K-Member from PA Racing (I dont know if there are other brands) then you need to purchase A-Arms from them as well, the stock ones will not work.

The choice becomes do you want to use the stock Springs or do you want to order there coil over kit. Then you order the correct a-arms for whatever you decide to do.

I have a Tubular K-member with the Coil Over setup. It isn't in the car yet so I can't give you any feedback.

You might want to email Dan McDonald about it turbotransam@attbi.com He has ordered 3 or 4 sets for the TTAs around here including his own car.

You need to specify TTA if you order a K-Member so they weld the mounts in the correct location.

 

[mark b]

Mike - thanks for the info, sorry I didn't reply yesteday.

Dan the TTA Man says you can run just the k-member with stock springs but you need the tubular a-arms.

Dan's real question is "why do you want to do it" and I guess that's mine too!

Is it really more for racing?

I was wondering if it would really help for other driving conditons - stuff other than a straight line (not counting rubbing the wall!)

 

[TTA89]

Well I am doing it to allow more room for a Girdle, I don't think the motor would fit in the stock K-Member. Also, I wanted the extra room to work on the motor.

The weight savings is awesome as well. I am more into Racing my TTA, so for me its all advantages.

 

[mark b]

So Mike, you are doing K-member with the motor mounts and spring perches, the coil-overs and them some aftermarket shock?

Is that what's in the 1197Kit at pa-racing?

I guess you are talking $1K out the door by the time you are done.

 

[TTA89]

I have the K-Member, Tubular Arms and the Coil Over Kit. I will be using Adjustable Koni's all the way around the car. I bought the K-member awhile go and Dan just ordered the Coil overs and A-arms. I didn't see the bill for them yet.

 

[mark b]

I might be talking to myself, but what else is new

Anyway, I got some additional info from PA Racing that I thought I would share. It sounds like this is something to consider if you are in a position to do it.

The answer "no advantage" was in reply to my question if the k-member WITH the spring perches had a performance advantage over the setup without them.

Trying to remember since I haven't seen my engine bay in quite a while, are the motor mounts separate from the cross-member piece? If not, what does the k-member without the mounts do for you?


Here's the PA Racing reply:
.............................................................
If you use a k-member with out spring perches you must then go with coil overs and tubular arms. With all parts you can use any strut.

Also you can use a coil over with the spring perch k-member if you'd want to add it at a later time. Also there is no advantage for the spring perchs it's only there so if you'd want to use the factory springs.

 

[TTA89]

I would assume the K-member without the mounts would allow you to build your own for a custom setup of some kind.

I didn't buy the K-Member for a Performance advantage, I bought it for Clearance. The fact that its going to drop 75lbs off the front end is nice as well

 

[mark b]

So I guess it's settled Mike.... get the k-member with the spring perches and motor mounts, coil-overs and tubular a-arms.

Now all I need is...... the money!

Thanks again for your help.

 

[trading t/a]

Without the perches and pads I'd assume it is intended for a motor plate setup.

 

[mark b]

I just wanted to post back some additional info.

As trading t/a said, the k-member setup without the motor mounts is intended for a motor plate setup. Basically racing only/custom type.

Also - there was some question about Chromemoly vs. Mild Steel for the street. Jason @PA Racing said the reason some people have issues with chromemoly on the street is that thinner walled tubing is used (07). He uses thicker tubing (095) and has never seen a problem with cracking for a street driven car.

He also said the coil-overs will definitely give a rougher ride on the street because of the nature of moving the shocks and mounting them to the body vs. the "frame". When you use coil overs, the spring rate is typically 1/2 of a standard spring for a street driven car because of this. He kinda recommended use the stock springs because you could change later to the coil-overs with their setup.

I'm sure others knew about this but it was interesting education for me!