You can type here any text you want

Keeping FMIC pipes ON! Tips or Tricks?

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!

V6UnderPressure

The Artist FKA Scott4DMny
Joined
May 27, 2001
Messages
2,912
I was wondering about a front mount being that its attached to the car and technically not the engine like the stocker. To me the engine would shake while the IC stays in place. This in my opinion could lead to the pipes coming loose. Not to mention I've read some previous posts on the matter. Does anyone use any tricks to keep them bad boys on there??? I have a pte front mount (new one) with the 3" aluminum pipes. I have heard hair spray on the ends of the pipes before installing the hoses. Anyone have any other good ideas?

Scott
 
The end of each pipe and the necks on the intercooler should each have a bead rolled into it, about 1/4" wide, maybe 1/8" high, starting about 1/8" from the end. The hose slips over that and the hose clamp goes behind it so once the clamp is tight it cannot pull off the tube and it's near-impossible for the hose to slide out from under the clamp. I've had the uppipe hose blow off the throttle body once in 13 years (no bead there), and never had a hose blow off my V2 pipes in 6 years, at up to 25 psi boost. I know that the CAS and Cotton's pipes have the bead but it's been long enough since I've seen a PTE pipe off the car that I don't remember for sure about them but I'd be surprised if they have plain ends.
 
Heavy duty host connecting the hard tubes, and good clamps.
 
Don't know about other front mounts but with my V2 the clearance and fit of the pipes is so tight that even without
clamps I don't think they would come out...the connections for the pipe/TB and pipe/turbo use a more flexible rubber hose...it's thinner walled than the ones used at the intercooler...if I tried to use thicker hoses at the top I would never be able to get the pipes connected...I actually have to fold the hose to get the pipes in so it has to be flexible...but I've run 28 PSI boost through them and they've never come loose...or blown out...as was stated if they have the bead on the end and you use some good clamps it should be fine...
 
Try some "brush tack"that purple stuff you use to hold gaskets in place during assembly made by permatex etc.It holds better than hairspray and still comes off when you want it too.
 
1. Quality hoses that are the proper diameter, length and thickness of material.

Silicone lined, reinforced with multiple plies of Nomex - poor quality or misapplied hoses grow in diameter and shorten under pressure. They can't take the heat, and soften.
Not too thin - thin hoses are flimsy.
Not too short - short hoses are the number one cause of dents to the underside of your hood.

2. Quality hose clamps.

Breeze Heavy Duty Large Spring Spring-Loaded T-Bolts - B9224 - these are killer clamps, absolutely the best I've come by.

3. Taking the time to line things up.

All systems have slop. Make sure it works for you, not against you.

4. Make sure that the hoses are fully over the beads of the turbo, tubes, and intercooler.

Again, are your hoses long enough, or are you kidding yourself?

5. Everything scrupulously clean - turbo, hoses, clamps, tubes, intercooler, throttle body.

Brakleen

Work with clean hands and clean tools.

6. Some guys rough up the turbo, hoses, tubes, intercooler, and/or throttle body using sandpaper. I have not found the need.

7. The toughest connection is at the throttle body. The nose of the throttle body, OEM or aftermarket, is too short, shorter than the width of a standard clamp, and there is no bead. Chalk it up to piss poor engineering. As such, this hose tends to walk. Clean it and clamp it hard, using the clamp I mentioned above. Tighten the heck out of it. Check that the hose is up against the shoulder of the throttle body nose frequently. If not, correct and retighten as necessary. Bias your installation so that there is as little strain on this hose as possible.

8. Of course, staying out of boost for a day or two while your installation "takes a set" would be good, assuming you have the patience. It seems like once things "stick" they stay "stuck" until you disturb them.

:D
 
The clamps are supposed to go behind the bead of the pipe so there is no way for it to slip off. Putting tacky stuff on the hose isn't the brightest idea because you want to be able to get them off when you want them off.
 
Back
Top