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Drivesa5

Member
Joined
Jan 9, 2007
Messages
43
Sadly I haven't had time to work on the GN over the winter due to other projects, but spring is coming and I want to get it all sorted out for the summer. Currently it detonates at or close to full boost (15) and I think it lacks a little power too. At a cruise night last summer someone pointed out to me that the maf (pictured below) wasn't the stock one and could be causing problems.

So the question is: is it in fact the wrong maf and could it be causing this?

Second question is: if that's right, is it worth getting a stock maf or would i be better off trying to get an ls1/translator type setup?

I haven't done anything yet in figuring out the problem (fuel pressure, etc) but I just wanted to throw this out there first for any opinions. Thanks!

gn-maf.jpg
 
Sadly I haven't had time to work on the GN over the winter due to other projects, but spring is coming and I want to get it all sorted out for the summer. Currently it detonates at or close to full boost (15) and I think it lacks a little power too. At a cruise night last summer someone pointed out to me that the maf (pictured below) wasn't the stock one and could be causing problems.

So the question is: is it in fact the wrong maf and could it be causing this?

Second question is: if that's right, is it worth getting a stock maf or would i be better off trying to get an ls1/translator type setup?

I haven't done anything yet in figuring out the problem (fuel pressure, etc) but I just wanted to throw this out there first for any opinions. Thanks!

gn-maf.jpg

My MAF looks like that. It is a remanufactured one. the only difference is the plug location. ours as you see is straight. the originals angle down. this means nothing. it still is the stock one.

as far as getting translator/ls1, I have no experience with.
 
Ok, thanks. The guy who talked to me about it seemed to think that it was a replacement, but not exactly the right one? Maybe he was wrong.
 
Most of those rebuilt ones you get are Not calibrated right, I went through 4 of them before I decided to upgrade to the translator and LT1 maf, no more problems, it's worth the upgrade for peace of mind.
 
Ok, that's what he was telling me I think. What kind of problems did you have with the off calibration? I probably will end up doing what you did... Thanks!
 
As stated you may have to try a couple more to get correct reading. My advise switch over to Trans or trans+ lt1 or ls1 and keep oem style for backup.
 
If you are going to keep the car for any period of time invest in a ls1 MAF and translator. You cant go wrong with it.:smile:
 
Thanks a lot for all the info guys. I'll be keeping the car forever so it sounds like a good way to go. Here's a question though ... if I end up getting something for tuning like maybe an autoprom etc. - will this make the translator obsolete as I'd be able to take control of its calibration?
 
Maf could be your problem esp if aftermarket unit or used redone unit.But I would look elsewhere first before throwing $ at the Maf. Check your fuel pressure,how old was gas?Could be just fuel brand,winter/summer blend?When was the last time fuel filter was replaced?Sucking air anywhere-vac leaks or old vac lines?Maybe double check your last repair or upgrade.These things will drive you nuts but you have to start narrowing things.
 
I know I have to check fuel pressure, which I'll do once I get started on it - I just need to find out what I'll need to adapt it to the 1/8npt male gauge I have (if anything.) I replaced the fuel filter and it wasn't the gas, it's been doing it consistantly. I also put in new vac lines and haven't heard anything but it's something to check. It's done it since I've had the car, so my repairs so far shouldn't be the cause. It'd be nice if there was someone around with a known good stock maf I could stick in to try out, but I don't know of anyone. Anyway, thanks!
 
It's worth mentioning that if the maf works at all it's probably not causing any WOT leaning conditions. Unless you have an extender chip the ecm has usually seen it's max airflow reading LONG before you get to full boost.
 
I haven't had time to post back so sorry this is pretty delayed, but ...
blackbandit, how is it calculating fuel at wot if it's no longer using the maf? I'm currently using a turbotweak chip.

Hopefully I should be getting to troubleshooting and working on the GN pretty soon as it's finally getting nicer out :)
 
Eric locks the blms at wot and after you hit 255 the chip runs off of the tables Eric programs. Have you tried adding WOT fuel via the chip?
 
Nope, but that's my next move. It's one of the reasons I decided to get that chip to begin with. But yeah .. haven't had the car out yet, so I'll have to wait ... Thanks for that info too, I didn't know that the blm's locked at that point and it ran off a table.
 
Tried 10% + @ wot, but still was showing on the knock gauge ... I'll try some more and see what happens when I get a chance.
 
Did you use the translator or the chip ot add fuel. If you tried the translator and you have a TT chip I don't think it would do anything. You would need to do it in the chip.
 
I do not know for fact but i heard, the lt1 maf is a 3 inch, and the ls1 is a 3.5 inch, so if you do not want to change the intake tube or 3 to 3.5 adapter, the lt1 is the way to go. Does anyone know for sure?
 
I do not know for fact but i heard, the lt1 maf is a 3 inch, and the ls1 is a 3.5 inch, so if you do not want to change the intake tube or 3 to 3.5 adapter, the lt1 is the way to go. Does anyone know for sure?

That's true but if you can't find it with the search feature, and trust me you could find the answer to that with the search feature, then you should start your own thread instead of hijacking someone elses.
 
Heh. Yeah, I don't have a translator, I have the MAF pictured in my first post so I added it with the chip. Thanks for your help so far!
 
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