Manual brakes

["Turbo-T"]

Who all runs manual brakes on their car? How well does it stop? Stock or aftermarket components?

 

[ITSNOTAGN]

love my manual brakes. Wouldnt advise it on worn out stock stuff, had that last year and it was pretty scary. Now i am still running the stock fronts with good pads, but upgraded to a 11" rear disk with no proportioning valve. it stops worlds better.
84 S-10 manual master cylinder on the stock powermaster mount with modified regular pedal.
gutted prop valve
stock fronts
rear disks

 

["Turbo-T"]

I actually plan to keep it low key so the rear drums would stay.

I wouldn't think the S-10 MC would fit since the MC usually sits at an angle and has an angled reservoir. But you said you used the PM mount, does it come off the PM?

 

[ITSNOTAGN]

yeah it comes off, i jsut bolted it right up. It sits mostly level, but it does not have a angled resivoir, they are designed for verticle mounting. The only thing needed is to make or modify a pushrod and get the ratio of the pedal right.

 

["Turbo-T"]

Hopefully I can swap out the PM brake pedal and instead use one from a regular Regal/Monte/GP/Cutlass G body and get away with using the push rod from a regular Regal/Monte/GP/Cutlass G body?

Also would you say the S-10 MC has more braking pressure than a typical G body MC?

 

[sdteb]

www.drageracebrakes.com

works great!

just converted to wilwoods and new coil overs and new upper and lower arms also

just re-use your stock pm pedal and drill out where the rivet is...

 

[BlackMetal]

I've wanted to do this for a while. Despite all the people using vacuum, I don't trust it on a turbochaged car. Hydroboost would be sweet but too $$ for me right now.

Drag Race Brakes

I've been told you DON'T need that billet bracket they sell because it's the exact same firewall bracket that you can take off the stock powermaster. So if that's true, you just need the master and pushrod from Wilwood. Hard to read the part number in that picture, 260-4894?? If that's correct, that's a 1 and 1/16" bore MC, sounds a little larger than what most other guys run.

 

[mach.80]

This made it easier

Parts: Willwood 260-9439 from GP Superstore $210 shipped.
G-body adapter from Drag Race Brakes $125 shipped.

Also search "manual brakes. works great!".

for my write-up.

 

[dentmasters01]

how do you "gut" the prop. valve?

 

[ITSNOTAGN]

if you take it off and rmove all the plugs, the rear brake line attachment you will see has a brass seat instead of the regular iron like the rest. this will push out the front plug that you removed. I removed this and cut it so just the rear brake line seat remained and reinstalled it. This way the pressure will equalize between the front and rear lines. This is what Bruce on turbobuicks.com did to his and that man was a genius
Gary

 

[dentmasters01]

so doing this will up the pressure to the rears with out the need for an adjustable??

 

[dentmasters01]

if you take it off and rmove all the plugs, the rear brake line attachment you will see has a brass seat instead of the regular iron like the rest. this will push out the front plug that you removed. I removed this and cut it so just the rear brake line seat remained and reinstalled it. This way the pressure will equalize between the front and rear lines. This is what Bruce on turbobuicks.com did to his and that man was a genius
Gary

could you also just drill it out leaving the seat still in the prop. valve? would that be the same thing?

 

[sdteb]

Wilwood #950-260-1876

Retains a minimum brake line pressure to eliminate excessive brake travel in both disc and drum brake systems. Use the blue 2 lb. valve in disc brake applications where the master cylinder is located below the horizontal plane of the calipers. Use the red 10 lb. valve for drum brake applications (extra pressure compensates for return spring tension in the drums).

Wilwood 260-1876 - Wilwood Residual Pressure Valves - JEGS

this is what i am using before i upgrade the rears to wilwoods like the front! then you use the 2lb valve

 

[BlackMetal]

Retains a minimum brake line pressure to eliminate excessive brake travel in both disc and drum brake systems. Use the blue 2 lb. valve in disc brake applications where the master cylinder is located below the horizontal plane of the calipers. Use the red 10 lb. valve for drum brake applications (extra pressure compensates for return spring tension in the drums).

Wilwood 260-1876 - Wilwood Residual Pressure Valves - JEGS

this is what i am using before i upgrade the rears to wilwoods like the front! then you use the 2lb valve

So you put that red valve in series with the rear drum brakes. What do you do with the front brake lines?

 

[sdteb]

pics

So you put that red valve in series with the rear drum brakes. What do you do with the front brake lines?

nothing with the fronts...
ill take pics tomorrow and show you...the red valve is up front coming out of the master cyl for the rear then down to the prop valve...the car is at the shop where the front end was replaced...worked just fine on stock brakes at the nats when the car went 138 in the 1/4

 

[dentmasters01]

ok, so you gutted the prop. valve. Installed this valve in the line and don't use an adjustable prop. valve ??
what kind of boost will it hold on a foot brake?

 

[sdteb]

no...just installed this valve from jegs in line right out of the master cyl.