my new 84 gn.. need your opinion!!

[garyk1970]

hello everyone,
ive bought an 84 gn sight unseen and someone has put an 87 i/c,intake,turbo,setup on it.....ive owned hot air cars and i/c cars,but not a h/a that has been converted to i/c.i pick it up car this thursday and heres my question.i know there is a million variances in cars,conditions,etc.but what(if any)kind of performance over stock should it be?its not a great car just something to play with..what are some things to look for that conversion was done "correctly"?its been awhile since ive had a turbo regal...ready to play.... hope i dont look too stupid..just dreammin of my new car...thanks,
gary

 

[BRAD_PADGETT]

The performance issue is complicated at best. A stock hot air was a 15.0 type quarter car. The stock 86/87 was a 14.3 quarter mile car. The quickest way to tell if the car is running correctly is to get a scan tool and check the following numbers at idle and warmed uo.

o2
blm
int
tps
iac
mal
af
and fuel pressure with line off

Most issues with any 84-87 car will most likely show up right away these numbers.The advantage of an 86-87 setup is the ease and lower cost in getting it to go faster. Hot air cars are alot cheaper but more expensive to get the same results. It all depends on your wallet and goals.

Get a scan tool ASAP and post numbers. The I/C cars as well as hot air cars read and tune the same way. Without a scan toll we cannot give you any real advice. Just my 2 cents-Brad

 

[cool 84]

So, this is a fully converted car, not an aftermarket intercooler on a hotair, right? In that case, performance should be the same as a stock 86-87. For what it's worth, my 84 GN weighed in at barely 3,300lbs with a half tank of gas. Don't know if all hotairs are lighter but mine is definately on the light side.

Being that it's a conversion car, they might have used vacuum brakes instead of trying to make the 87 powersteering pump work with the hydroboost brakes (it's easy). Also, the fuel filter could be in a different place from a stock hotair or intercooled car.

 

[garyk1970]

i do need a real scan tool,the first time i punch it ill know its condition... looks all factory(i/c,turbo,etc 86-87),looks like it has 84 brake booster working off p/s pump...im dying to go pick it up,its been a long time......(about 3 years since i sold my last turbo , t-type 86) :biggrin:

 

[garyk1970]

oh yeah it should be on the light side too,it has NO power acc.NO t-tops,concert sound,p/w,p/l,...........analog dash/gauges

 

[BRAD_PADGETT]

My car does not have power options either which to me means less problems. I do not have T-tops but I do hear that they car be a problem with leaking. I would check them out ASAP and fix if necessary. I would be figuring out which scan tool you want right now and would get it right away. Driving the car will tell you alot but the scan tool will tell you even more. Welcome back- Brad

 

[garyk1970]

thanks Brad,
i had to edit,it does not have t-tops,i do like them....car needs a good paint job,i wonder if a good body man could take a asc moonroof out my junk 84 t riv and put in this car???this is no show car....

 

[garyk1970]

scan tools

what kind/brand of scan tools are you guys using?im on a budget, anyone going to take one to sell at the gs nats???used/inexspensive

 

[BRAD_PADGETT]

I would get the car first and fix any mechanical issues first. Unless you are really lucky this will keep you busy for awhile. Tuning these cars takes time and patience. Good luck. Brad

 

[garyk1970]

im looking forward to "tinkering"and working on car....in the past i would get a GN or T just right and get bored and sell it...then later only to kick myself in the ***...my plan now is to COLLECT (thats my goal if i can) :wink:

 

[BRAD_PADGETT]

I use a Scanmaster 2 for tuning only because it is easier to see when driving. Another product(I dont know the name) uses a laptop. I am almost positive the laptop model shows more data but at this time it is really out of my league. The second thing I would do once you see the car is look for a knock gauge. If you do not have a knock gauge never beat on the car until you install one. You cannot hear knock. Anybody who says they can does not understand it. I blew the passenger side head 1/8 inch off the block and I never heard it coming. Once you get a knock gauge you will need to know the difference between false knock and real knock. Real knock goes up in a steady fashion-like 123456789. If you see this-back out ASAP. Just a pointer. Brad