need help diagnosing trans problem

[ez at nova]

Last night I took off from a light somewhat vigorously (3/4 throttle) and the car shifted fine. My car has a kit in it, so it always bangs into second and chirps the tires if you’re even mildly on the throttle. The next time I pulled away from the light, when the car went to shift into second, it felt like my Grandma’s 88 Cutlass, I couldn’t even feel it. I was hoping it was a fluke. I gave it gas to make it downshift to first and when it did it sort of “rubber banded” and got all mushy, the revs went up but the car didn’t go anywhere for a few seconds. At the next light, as the car was sitting, it got a bit shaky like it wanted to stall or couldn’t find the right idle revs or something. Now it’s the same thing each time I pull away, it seems to be slipping in the 1-2 shift. It may be my imagination but I think it’s a bit harder to move the shift lever now, and I think it was stinking a bit, like a burning smell when I got home, and it might “clunk” a bit more when I put it in gear, from R, to N ,to D, but it did always sometimes “clunk”. The car SEEMS to be fine after it gets past the 1-2 shift.
Also, should I try to drive the car too where ever I’ll need to end up going for a fix or should it not be driven for fear I blow the whole thing up or make it worse or something?
If it matters for your repair recommendations, my car is running the stock converter. It is a 95% street driven car.

Ah, and just days after getting a new water pump in.



Thanks,
Jeff

 

[85 Riviera]

Did you check the tranny fluid level? Thats how they act on a low level or whatever else like a crushed pan. I think I would first check for correct level then look under the car to see if the pans been crushed if all thats ok then I would drop the pan and replace the filter, fluid. after that if there is still shifting problems then you got problems. OH YEAH i almost forgot, check the TV cable for a broking cable or spliting cable, disconnect the cable from the carb or throttle body ( whatever you have ) and check for a smooth springy feeling cable by pulling on it. You can drive it for short I MEAN short trips like two or three mile because that wont give it enough time to burn a clutch or band but any further and I would be worried. i hope your shop is near by

 

[HOTTOGO]

Maybe servo seals or band related, streched, anchor pin hole in band or case or apply pin hole oblonged, or lining failure. Try what 85 Riviera said along with pressure check if you can.

 

[ez at nova]

Thanks for those initial thoughts guys.
Unfortunately I'm less than stellar with working on the car, so I think my diagnostic limits will be close to checking the fluid level, which I have not yet done (it was dark out when I parked it last night). I do have a spare filter here, so if it's not considerably harder than, say, an oil change, then I can change that I guess. I'm really thinking it's something more mechanical though, since it was an "all of the sudden" thing, and nothing gradual.
I don't know if it's related, but recently when downshifting when slowing down, the car makes a clunk sort of noise, but I was told it was just U-joints, and not to worry.

Oh, any idea on estimated $$ I'm going to be shelling out here if it is mechanical stuff?

I guess it's getting towed to my shop since it's 20 or so miles away.

Thanks,
Keep the thoughts coming!
Jeff

 

[87 WE2]

TRANS

JEFF,

CHECK YOUR E-MAIL, I AM WILLING TO BET I KNOW WHATS WRONG.

CALL ME DURING THE WEEK, AND LET ME KNOW,
ED

 

[HOTTOGO]

You can get rebuilts for about $1200 and a rebuild will probably cost ya about $700, these are ballpark figures and subject to change w/o notice.

 

[85 Riviera]

Well before you assume anything is broken at least check the level because low level will act fine intill you take a sharp turn or a fast jab at the gas peddle and the fluid moves to one side of the pan then your pump gulps a large chunk of air, from that point it takes time to work the air out even if you bring the fluid level back up it can take 5 to 10 minutes of driving before your tranns works all the air out.

 

[HOTTOGO]

Definately try and get the prob. figured out before a rebuild, or may have the same thing after.

 

[85 Riviera]

I have to agree with HOTTOGO on that one, a fast rebuild will just give you new clutches, seals and a cleaning but might not clear the real problem.

 

[WE4]

Originally posted by HOTTOGO
Maybe servo seals or band related, streched, anchor pin hole in band or case or apply pin hole oblonged, or lining failure.

This is what is wrong with your car. Possibly broken acc spring , but I seriously doubt it. But for it to be that bad, one of the items HOTTOGO mentioned

 

[ez at nova]

Thanks guys,
So, WE4, if it's one of the problems you confirmed that HOTTOGO mentioned, what's the best course of action for getting it fixed? Should I feel around for a servo leak, or jsut take it to where I can get it looked at and tell them where to start looking? Should I defeinitely not drive it to the shop (half hour away)?
I tell you what's a pain about my fluid level, I think I confirmed that I have an incorrect dipstick (I posted about it in the main tech section). Mine doesn't have the two pinholes for cold fluid level meaasuring. On my current dipstick, it measures a good 3/4 to 1" above the full hot mark.

 

[HOTTOGO]

If you feel compitant enough and have the tools and ability to pull the servo out and check the seals and/or drop the pan and pull the 1-2 accum. housing off and check the spring, you can do those. If it's not either of them with an obvious problem then your probably better off taking it some where for further diagnosis. I think you'll be alright driving it if you take it easy, if it is the band the damage is already done.