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I think Salvage V6 said coolant temp sensor and I think he is right. It sounds like it is not leaning the mix like it should when the engine gets hot. The engine will run rich when it thinks it is cold
 
I think you need to check the temp sensor too, but while you do that, I thought I might come at this problem from another angle...

It sounds like the car runs good in open loop mode, but when it goes closed loop, it runs like crap? When you start it next time, make sure the crappy idle ocures at the same time as the loop is closed. I think the SM2 Decimal point 5 flashes when in open loop, but I didn't read that you have one. If you do, when DP5 quits flashing AND the idle gets messed up, maybe someone can ID what really changes at this point. We might be able to narrow the "Bad Part Search" items.

Of course, I'm not sure Red A. chips have open/closed loop modes, so please disregard my post if this is the case!

But that aside, you did say this came on all of a sudden, after a high speed run. Is it possible the camshaft sensor was damaged in some way? I know a bad sensor could cause the injectors to fire at the wrong time.

If the temp sensors check out (If you have a ScanMaster, this is pretty easy!) maybe while all that black smoke is pouring out, you should pull the plug on the camshaft sensor... While it is running... to see if the idle smoothes out. But I'm not sure what mods were made to the chip/ecm, so again, I may be suggesting ideas that are useless to your setup! My "Stock" point of view is possibly worthless, so take it as such.

Good luck to you at any rate!
 
Hey guys you all have been good help!! i'll put a new coolant temp sensor in the moring. and if that don't work i'll pull the plug one the cam sensor and see if that is the problem.this all happen when i got on it and it ran great then when i shut it off to go inside the parts store, tried to start it up and it was running like crap let it sit for about 20 min and it starts right up and idle great. then the samething happens it starts loading up and puffing out black smoke. thanks again guys Rob
 
This all sounds like good advice. The only other thing that comes to mind again, is; could an injector driver in the ECM have gone bad. With the 55lb injectors, the ECM has to have the impedance modified, and even though you've tried another ECM, did it have the same mod done to work with those injectors? I may be grasping at straws here, but I think we are all feeling your frustration Rob, and would like to help get it solved. It's probably something simple, but finding it seems to be quite a task. Have you attempted to call Jack Cotton or Red Armstrong. Jack seems to always be willing to help, even if you haven't done business with him. And,,, I would think Red would offer to help, since you're using his chipset. Keep us informed, and I'm sure we'll all keep thinking on it...
 
Originally posted by JToups386
This all sounds like good advice. The only other thing that comes to mind again, is; could an injector driver in the ECM have gone bad. With the 55lb injectors, the ECM has to have the impedance modified, and even though you've tried another ECM, did it have the same mod done to work with those injectors? I may be grasping at straws here, but I think we are all feeling your frustration Rob, and would like to help get it solved. It's probably something simple, but finding it seems to be quite a task. Have you attempted to call Jack Cotton or Red Armstrong. Jack seems to always be willing to help, even if you haven't done business with him. And,,, I would think Red would offer to help, since you're using his chipset. Keep us informed, and I'm sure we'll all keep thinking on it...
i talked to john at quad air yesterday he told me to try switching out ecm i told him it was a stock one the extra one i have. he said it would work as long i didn't go high speed, but i was checking everything while the car sat and it did the samething with the different ecm. but if i don't get it i'll call jack cotton and john from quad air thanks Rob :confused:
 
Watch the fuel pressure after 10 mins. See if the pressure goes whacko when the car acts up. I've had regulators fill up with fuel and once full, raise the FP to the pumps capacity. Took ~10 mins. Food for thought...
 
Originally posted by TurboJim
Watch the fuel pressure after 10 mins. See if the pressure goes whacko when the car acts up. I've had regulators fill up with fuel and once full, raise the FP to the pumps capacity. Took ~10 mins. Food for thought...
i checked that already it looks fine on the fuel pressure thanks alot for the reply Rob
 
Originally posted by rob nolan
i checked that already it looks fine on the fuel pressure thanks alot for the reply Rob

Ok, have you pulled the vacuum line off the reg when its acting up? Maybe its spittring raw fuel into the line?

Have you watched on a scanner when it acts up? Anything stick out like a sore thumb?
 
Originally posted by TurboJim


Ok, have you pulled the vacuum line off the reg when its acting up? Maybe its spittring raw fuel into the line?

Have you watched on a scanner when it acts up? Anything stick out like a sore thumb?
pulled the vacuum line off that was all good.The only thing that i noticed is it starts acting up when the temp hits 170 degrees onthe direct scan. But no codes are coming up.
 
Originally posted by rob nolan
pulled the vacuum line off that was all good.The only thing that i noticed is it starts acting up when the temp hits 170 degrees onthe direct scan. But no codes are coming up.

Aha, direct scan....send me a file of it runing before it acts up, then when it is acting up. If you can capture it going from fine to acting up in the same recording, send that as well.

jtesta1966@aol.com
 
Originally posted by TurboJim


Aha, direct scan....send me a file of it runing before it acts up, then when it is acting up. If you can capture it going from fine to acting up in the same recording, send that as well.

jtesta1966@aol.com
i gotta go and get me some more disk but i will send it to you. thanks Rob
 
You can check the ohmmeter reading on your existing temp. sensor easily. No need to buy a new one yet. Unless you want a spare.

Easy 5 minute test when the car is hot. :)

I think the reading should be 2-3K ohms when sitting at 80 degrees or so not warmed up yet.

Both readings would be good to get, cold and hot. :)
 
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