New alky questions

[1 RARE T]

Did some testing with my round bottle S.M.C. kit today an have some issues.

With boost at 24psi. sometimes I get as much as 6* of k/r.

Sometimes none at all.

Most times it will knock instantly then go away but sometimes come back 2-3*.

Brought the f/p up 2 psi. to get better 02 # because it was showing 720-730 in 3rd.

#'s are better now but still knocking some.

Even had a weird popping a couple times.

Running a 20* street chip, blue tops, TA-49 ect...

Any thoughts? Razor?

Thanks, Mike

P.S. 24 psi is crazy fast in this cold weather!

 

[1 RARE T]

Turn on piont is 14-15 psi. with pump speed on full.

HELP!

 

[Red Regal T]

Try lowering your turn on point. Mine comes on at 8-9 lbs. of boost.

 

[Razor]

Hey Mike,

Well see there are two places knock occurs throughout a run. One is when you initially stab the throttle, the other is the top of the gears. The knock that occurs when you stab the throttle has been given the moniker, transitional knock. this can be corrected by lowering your turnon point, slowing down the spool, and playing with fueling/timing within the chip. A simple test is to reach over and mash the red test button on the controller when to jab the throttle. If the knock goes away initially, then its telling you more is needed lower.

Now the other kind is the type you get at the top of the gear while going down the road. this one can be remedied by adding volume, aka spraying more. If you currently have a single nozzle, going to the SMC dual will alleviate this. And I found when you dont spray a lot, due to flow issues, you cant bring the O2's down into the lower 700's and still be kr free.

Simple suggestions are try and get a better grasp when the knock is occurring, and try to distinguish whether its tranny/downpipe/fueling/etc thats cuasing it. If you have access to Direct Scan and can make a recording of your run, this would help isolating what and why. Get your o2's up into the mid-high 700's and see if the knock goes away. Monitor pressure on your kit and make sure its delivering the 75 PSI while your running it. I typically on the SMC kit look at the consumption. If your running the car and the level on the bottle doesnt come down very fast, your pump may have issues. I'm not saying this is your case. But its one more piece of the puzzle. You should consume typically 5-7 ounces of alcohol when your system is cranked on pump speed 10 in a 1/4 mile pass. approximate.. To be able and sustain high boost.

HTH

Julio

 

[1 RARE T]

Thanks Red & Razor.

The alky is spraying alot as the bottle goes down really quick. I did'nt think it would use that much. Oh well.

I will put the turn-on point lower and try again.

This car flys up to 20 + psi. sooo fast now with the A.T.R. downpipe it almost suprizes me. I'll get used to it.

The problem with turning up the fuel pressure (which I've now done, but it's raining now) is that my B.L.M.'s at idle are 110 ish.

Can the k/r show up on the s/m if the road is a bit bumpy? Seems like a silly question but had to ask. The roads here really heave in the winter.

The knock seems to only come and go. Knocks 2.5 * then next frame 0 , then next frame 3 *.

Maybe I should just turn the boost down?

Could it be that since it's only 40-45 * outside that's why I'm having trouble?

I know the best thing to do is buy your progressive kit but I bought this one just before I read about yours. I't's like buying a new what-ever and learning a month later you should have waited.

Thanks again , Mike

 

[1 RARE T]

Hosed down the motor today and now the damn 'low alky' light stays on.

 

[Razor]

Unplug your low alky connector and dry it out. When I had an SMC kit, I had mine in silicon boots like used for coil packs. I packed the connectors in dialectric grease, put a boot over the brass end, and eliminated that type of problem. His new kits address the problem by using an external weather pack connector and eliminating the little plastic RCA type jacks.

I use a GM weather pack on my low alky sender cuase I learned

The pump connections are also prone to having issue. Inspect the terminals frequently. I chased a bad connection on the pump RCA jack couple years ago for like a month. Would test fire.. car would stumble.. go down the track.. get a bunch of KR.. come back.. stumble.. etc. it was a bad connection on the pump RCA terminal. I removed the RCA and hard wired the terminal by soldering , that problem went away.

I'll do as requested, any problems with your SMC kit, direct inquiries to Steve at SMC. I dont want to offer technical on a product I didnt make. I had this issue couple months ago. Hope you understand