New WE4, brakes are terrible!
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Accumulator
I just installed a new accumulator on my Powermaster and that did not solve the problem. I yanked the system off and installed a Hydroboost system over the weekend; very expensive and a PITA to install however that means I have a brand new accumulator that I spent $189 plus tax and shipping to not solve a problem. If you are interested in the ACC please let me know, I will ship to you in the original box for $150. The ACC may or may not be your problem but is often the root cause of poor brakes. This is the Carbone unit which is approximately 25% larger (I think that helps with increased brake pressure). Email is DZ28LaLonde@yahoo.com
I just installed a new accumulator on my Powermaster and that did not solve the problem. I yanked the system off and installed a Hydroboost system over the weekend; very expensive and a PITA to install however that means I have a brand new accumulator that I spent $189 plus tax and shipping to not solve a problem. If you are interested in the ACC please let me know, I will ship to you in the original box for $150. The ACC may or may not be your problem but is often the root cause of poor brakes. This is the Carbone unit which is approximately 25% larger (I think that helps with increased brake pressure). Email is DZ28LaLonde@yahoo.com
GNVYUS 1
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2002
- Messages
- 4,323
If you get the brake light then it's accumulator time, otherwise you're looking in the wrong place.
Make sure the fluid doesn't look like Pepsi and I'd literally flush the whole thing and replace with new fluid anyways. This of course gives you the chance to bleed the brakes and try it again.
Pump the pedal 10 times and then start at the rear pass and get back to us.
BTW, if it's stock brakes/rotors/drums you are not going to get anything special.
New rotors and better pads are the cheapest for the fronts and do a search for rear brake upgrades, S10 cylinders and new shoes with 1 big one are most common.
Make sure the fluid doesn't look like Pepsi and I'd literally flush the whole thing and replace with new fluid anyways. This of course gives you the chance to bleed the brakes and try it again.
Pump the pedal 10 times and then start at the rear pass and get back to us.
BTW, if it's stock brakes/rotors/drums you are not going to get anything special.
New rotors and better pads are the cheapest for the fronts and do a search for rear brake upgrades, S10 cylinders and new shoes with 1 big one are most common.
I am having problems with my system also. The brakes would come and go. And mostly go.
The Brake fluid was brown. I changed it out and I replaced the Iron Proportional valve with the new brass one. Now I have clear fluid. But My brakes still come and go. I think the accumulator is bad. The brake light will come on when I 1st hit the brakes. Plus if I do the 10 pumps then turn the key on the motor only runs for 1 or 2 seconds. The GM test procedure says this means the Accumulator is bad.
I now have the new accumulator. I am concerned about installing it. There is a label in it saying Caution Pressurized to 300psi with Fluid. After I depressurize the old one and unscrew it, I am wondering if I will have a problem screwing on the new accumulator being that it is Pressurized.
Any opinions on how to install the accumulator?
The Brake fluid was brown. I changed it out and I replaced the Iron Proportional valve with the new brass one. Now I have clear fluid. But My brakes still come and go. I think the accumulator is bad. The brake light will come on when I 1st hit the brakes. Plus if I do the 10 pumps then turn the key on the motor only runs for 1 or 2 seconds. The GM test procedure says this means the Accumulator is bad.
I now have the new accumulator. I am concerned about installing it. There is a label in it saying Caution Pressurized to 300psi with Fluid. After I depressurize the old one and unscrew it, I am wondering if I will have a problem screwing on the new accumulator being that it is Pressurized.
Any opinions on how to install the accumulator?
DailyDrifter
The Slow and the Curious
- Joined
- Dec 5, 2007
- Messages
- 5,118
The ball is basically a diaphram that has a charge of nitrogen in it, this give you the "assist" in the brakes. To replace it FIRST, MAKE SURE YOUR CURRENT ACC. IS DE-PRESURIZED!!!! I think GM calls for 25 pumps of the pedal without the key on. Then unscrew the ball and replace it with the new one.
Black Power
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 3, 2006
- Messages
- 4,617
I feel it is necessary to save you lots of hassle, time, money, and possibly save your life. Take that POS powermaster off, sell it on eBay, and get a vacuum or hydroboost put in that thing. I have vac brakes on my GN and I LOVE them.
Brakes Work!
Thank You, My Brakes now work. It was the accumulator. After you telling me that there was a diaphram that hold the charge of nitrogen it gave me the confidence to install. Now I understand that the 300psi nitrogen charge is what pushes the fliuid once the pump fills the accumulator with fluid. So has long has you depressurize the Brake Fluid side of the diapham it is safe to install the new accumulator.
Thanks Again Guys for you help.
Thank You, My Brakes now work. It was the accumulator. After you telling me that there was a diaphram that hold the charge of nitrogen it gave me the confidence to install. Now I understand that the 300psi nitrogen charge is what pushes the fliuid once the pump fills the accumulator with fluid. So has long has you depressurize the Brake Fluid side of the diapham it is safe to install the new accumulator.
Thanks Again Guys for you help.
