No power to F.P.

[85HOT-T]

I have 0 volts to my fuel pump, but I can hear the solinoid clicking. First, were is the solinoid, and second will a hotwire kit fix this.

 

[85HOT-T]

OK now I know someone has to have some input. WEll I havemore info now too. If I connect power to the fuel pump wire behind the alternator it will power the pump. Now it must be the feed wire after the solinoid but I am not sure. Anything at all would be nice, well anything usefull

 

[3.8Illusion]

im not positive on the hot air but the fp relay should be by the middle relay on the pass side. hopefully you have a volt meter or test light. check grnd, trigger, constant, and out put. if you have a good ground, trigger,and constant then change the relay. other wise check voltage at pump. easiest way is to disconnect the plug by the fuel tank (3 prong). remember it will only run the relay (trigger) for three seconds until the ecm gets a cam signal. good luck

 

[olds443]

I just changed out my dash wiring harness and had the same problem. Chased everything down, pulled harness apart and checked EVERY wire. Turns out to be a bad kill switch. Replaced switch and all is fine. Don't know if you have a kill switch or not but worth a try.

Try this also, I found it when doing a search; (posted by Pacecartta)

"disconnecting the original oil sender doesnt affect the pump unless your pump relay on the fender was defective
, the sender is a secondary source of current if the pump relay on the passenger fender should go bad , and only supplies 12v once oil pressure is above 4psi which can take a bit of cranking to establish pressure.

the pump should prime for a few seconds once the key is turned to the run position then you need to either crank the car or wait ten seconds and turn key to off then back on to prime again

theres really no short cut and if your not really familiar with auto electronis checking all the fuses in the fuse box (pull them out and visually look at them ) and the check hotwire fuse in the fuse holder at the back of the alternator should be the first step, followed by swapping in a good relay on the passenger fender

have someone turn the key or connect the prime wire behind the alternator and check for 12v at the red wire out from the hotwire harness to the pump harness that goes over the tank.


if you turn the key to on and see the check engine light the ecm is getting power. if not check the orange wire by the battery

if no prime occurs on initial key on check the fuelpump /inj fuse in the fuse box under the dash (you need to wait 10 seconds and cycle the key back to off then on before it will prime again) ,

youve already checked all the fuses now its time to check the system with a meter or a test light
disconnect the fuelpump relay (relay with the gray connector on passenger fender ) and hook up a volmeter or test light to the terminal with the green w/white stripe wire , you should see 12v when you turn the key to on ,if it doesnt then the ecm is bad or the wire is damaged to the ecm connector pin A1.

now check the two terminals at the relay that have red wires
one is for the supply and should have 12v with key on ,the other is out to the pump , if neither has 12v with key on you need to check the ignition switch.

now you have established a signal to the relay solenoid and a supply to the pump , now check the ground at the relay connector ( blk w/whitestripe) with an ohmmeter if its not showing a good ground fix it , that ground is bolted on the back of passengerside head and may need to be tightened or repaired or reattached to a good ground point like the manifold .
now with power , relay prime and ground established recconnect the pump relay and check the other red wire connector for 12v when key is turned on , if no current the relay needs replacement
if you have power and still no pump then you can connect the prime wire to the alternator and move to the rear of the car and disconnect the factory pump harness from the hotwire and plug it back to the tank harness , if the pump doesnt run then the pump is shot , if it works your problem is in the hotwire relay.
__________________
Paul, --MAGNA --
87 GN

 

[olds443]

sorry that was "pacecarta"

 

[85HOT-T]

Thanks guys Ill check it out. Oh and 3.8illusion I uess I sould change my screen name, don't ave the hot ir anymore. F'ing, uh..... how sould i put this "african americans" stole the car. The worst part about it was the heads were not even toruqed on it. They towed it. Oh well thse intercoolers make a hudge difference. Thanks aggin fellas.

 

[85HOT-T]

Sorry bout the spelling, just got off work.

 

[85HOT-T]

OK so if there any any experts out there mabey you can help me. I have a poston 110t with 009's and a turbo (honestly I do not know what size but the intake on the compressor wheel is around an inch larger than stock). The car runns pretty good but will stmble if you hit it right away. Now when I get into boost it sounds like fuel starvation. It will hit a few and miss a few. Now I have ngk's in it I think 4's if I remember right. Could it be too hot or cold, and does it sound like ossibly a gap problem. Like I said it runs good without boost but sh!t with the boost. I would appreciate any help. Thanks much.........................Matt. Oh and its not hot air its an 87.

 

[3.8Illusion]

how much boost? no more than 15psi on 93. how much fuel press? with the vacuum line off around 42. are you running 93 oct with a 110 chip? could be too much timing. i use the ngk ur5 gapped at .35. if those seem to be right than it could be coil or ign module. possibly maf?. good luck

 

[85HOT-T]

This happens after 3 psi or so. The chip is a red 93. The gas though is a year old that can be a problem. Maf is reading so I do not think that is it. The coil is new from advanced @%$&up . Its wells so it may be bad you know how that goes. I am going to have to try new gas and check out the F.P. Thanks 3.8 I'll let you know what happens.