Not certain my rear main cap seated properly?

[Mike T]

My mission yesterday was to build my short block. Started early in the morning and by the end of the day everything was together including a few extra items.

It's all forged with center caps, The Eagle crank is new to this build.

I've been into this motor plenty but feel uncertain about a couple of things this time. In the past I've used Pro Seal rear seal kits with good success.
This time I used a Felpro with pins.

My install process was the same as in the past but the Felpro seemed to cause the cap to be very tight going into the block. The tightness caused the cap to tip towards the front of the block.
Aware of the angle I gently snugged down the main nuts watching it straighten itself out.

It's difficult to get a good look at this area because of the crank flange. It appears as if the thin coat of RVT between the parting lines squeezed out a very small amount to the crank case side (good) but the flex plate side didn't have a uniform squeeze.

The area closest to the crank did not push out RVT leading me to believe that the cap may be tipped a little? Would this even be possible?

 

[pacecarta]

i throw those side seals and pins away

 

[Mike T]

They are very frustrating but since I had good success in the past with a similar style I didn't want to stray from the norm. Throwing them away may become the new norm if they caused a problem.

I do and have always ditch the rubber included with the intake set.

 

[Mike T]

Double post finally caught me.

 

[pacecarta]

there should only be a small amount of rtv used on cap face from rubber seal edge to outer and assembly should have been done before that rtv could cure
squeze some rtv in the channel of the cap and breathe on it (it needs moisture for rtv to begin curing ) , slide cap in , torque then squeze rtv from top of channel until it comes out at the cap corner chamfers front and rear

if you want to use the side seals you should still smear the cap face with some rtv from crank seal to outer , cost the seals with rtv and put them in with one end sticking up about a 1/4"with pin slots facing front to rear , in the end of channel fill with rtv , assemble and torque then push the seal down to force the rtv into the chamfer edge and it should ooze out front and rear , then put pins in , when you do the pan gasket cover that area of the channel cap parting line with rtv

 

[Mike T]

Coating the back edge only makes absolute sense and I may do it that way in the future.
I used a pea size dab of RVT and coated the entire parting line as per the instructions and have done it the same way in the past.
I did add small amount extra in the corners to fill the chamfers.

 

[Mike T]

i throw those side seals and pins away

Do you fill the voids where the rubber would normally go or do you just do a U shaped bead on the back half of the cap? Also this time I staggered the seal itself at the parting lines like some others have done....do you do this?

 

[pacecarta]

i usually fill the cavity corners in two beads so air and humidity can get to the rtv leave it a little low then squeeze more in from top once its assembled

 

[ek02]

Staggering the seal ends 1/4" is the best way to install them. The Right Stuff in the aerosol can injected into the side grooves with the cap torqued down works very well and will squeeze out all around the cap sides. A small film on the block mating surfaces is also needed. Wipe off the excess sealer and it's done. The rubber side seals and pins never worked for me.