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Odd boost fluxuations...need opinions!

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turbov6joe

Signal 1 J-12
Joined
May 22, 2002
Messages
2,220
Ok, I'll try to explain this oddity without sounding too confusing. On some occasions at WOT, my boost runs to a set 24-25 psi in 1st and 2nd, then, when it hits 3rd gear, it drops off to 19-20 psi then slowly works it way back up to 24-25 psi and stays there into 4th, and as long as I have the road/balls to hold it. Now, it does not do it all of the time, just randomly, and only from a dead stop. It doesn't matter if the TC is locked or not, and only seems to do it when the boost is set above 20 psi or so. If I punch it from say 55 mph and it downshifts to 3rd, then up shifts to 4th, this problem never rears its ugle head! Now here is the odd part of this all. When it is acting up and dropping to 19-20 psi, the turbo almost sounds like it's struggling/laboring to work its way back up to 24-25 psi (very hard to describe here)??? I can hear a rather loud sucking/vacume sound when its on the rise after it drops off. The turbo is new (about 50 miles), and did it before the rebuild, so that's out for now. The only other thing I did was change the squirters out for a set of 50's from stockers. The state of tune is good, so I doubt the 50's are causing it. I do not remember this problem before the injector upgrade, but that's not saying much, as my memory pretty much sucks most of the time (so my wife says). I cannot seem to put my finger on this one, so bang away with ideas....all will be greatly appreciated!

PS>>I'm using a known good bleeder valve in conjunction with the OE wastegate solenoid.
 
Originally posted by turbov6joe
PS>>I'm using a known good bleeder valve in conjunction with the OE wastegate solenoid.

Pull the wastegate hoses and inspect for oil. If you find oil in any of the Y-hose, WG solenoid, and/or WG actuator then replace them. You'll find posts in here from very reputable members that the solenoid never fails. I found out the hard way that it does after chasing everything else first with a similar problem. Good luck.
 
Thanks for the input, I'll look into it ASAP! As a side note, I just went out and made some passes to check/mess with a few things and here is what I came up with.

1. I got a code 13, so I replaced the O2 sensor with a new one.

2. I backed off on the WG rod 1 1/2 times to lower the boost slightly. I then went out and made a few passes and could not get the aforementioned problem to exist:confused: I did notice that the WOT boost level was down a pound or two at the most, and that the O2's were back up in the lower .8xx range opposed to the mid .7xx's where they were when all of this was going on. Is is possible that the slight KR I was seeing in 3rd gear would have been causing the timing to be lowered enough to cause the boost to drop as it did??? Then when the ECM didn't see any KR, it put the timing back in and the boost came back up??? Maybe, just maybe, when I'm on a roll and nail it, the load isn't enough to cause enough KR to force the ECM to pull out a significant amount of timing, thus causing the crazy boost flux I'm seeing??? Then, when I launch off idle and go through the gears, the load was enough at 24-25 psi to cause the KR and the timing to be pulled out??? Seems that the car felt as though it pulled harder at 22-23 psi then when at 24-25 psi. Maybe that slightly higher boost was just enough to cause just enough timing to get pulled out causing the boost to surge as it did??? I hate to make this so long, but I seem to trouble shoot better when I'm typing/thinking it through. Any other ideas out there?
 
Who's DP? Could be the swing valve stuck/binding. What are you using to hold the actuator to the valve? Sometimes an "alligator" clip causes inconsistant valve movement. Make sure the valve moves free, no sticking at all! Then you could (if you haven't already) try one of the clips from the throttlebody cables on the actuator/swing valve. I had the same problem, turned out to be the ATR DP binding. They fixed it free and been good ever since. Good Luck!
 
Other possibilities include a small leak in the exhaust system pre-turbo (such as a cracked DS header), vacuum leak, or a misalignment of the puck on the exhaust housing. Make sure all of those are in good shape and check the first suspicion I had and I bet the problem is gone. ;)
 
WOW, both of you all really have me wondering; here is why: Recently I lost the OE clip, so on went a gator clip (seems to be around the same time this all started). Secondly, I sent the turbo back to PT&E for a rebuild a few weeks ago. When I was putting the DP back on, I was playing with the flapper valve making it go back and forth. I noticed that a few times it seemed like it was sticking, not bad, but none the less, sticking. It just didn't have the free movement I know it should have had, but I dismissed it as me being over critical and put it back on anyhow:mad: As for exhaust leaks, my O2's seem too good for that, as well as I don't hear anything that would make me suspect of a leak (not saying it couldn't be a remote possibility). I will R&R the gator clip with something else, as well as R&R the flapper and see what happens. Thanks so much for the insight, as both of these opinions very well could be my problem(s). Thanks!
 
Might just be a little carbon buildup on the shaft, WD40 should eat through that piece of cake.
 
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