Last fall I re-painted a white 87 T-type that I purchased in Utah. I completed all the work at an Autobody Shop on a Military Base in Colorado Springs which is supervised by paint & body men. I had a beginners understanding of body prep and even practiced on 4 other cars before this attempt at the whole job. We needed to do some body-work around the rear wheel wells and the door jam areas on both sides, astro roof, and replace both doors that were rusted out. My question is on the new paint jobs overall thickness in mils. Just recently it needed some minor paint repair on the nose above the headlight that blistered up. All appeared to come out great but the Body Shop that did the nose repair said that the paint thickness in the area he spot checked was 17 mils. It also pulled up some paint when they removed the taped up area on some areas. He said this may cause the rest of the paint job to "Blister" in other places also. This 17 mils thickness as it was described to me includes primer/sealer, primer, and Base/clear coat. Before the paint I sanded the car down with 180 in most places, 80 grit in some others (body work needed) followed by 220 then 400. We knocked back what looked to be a cheap re-paint over the original color down to the bare metal in some places. The paint guy then sprayed a filler primer over the whole car and I went into that block, sand, fill steps, and leveled the body to achieve the "Perfect Panel" before we sprayed the base color. This step was repeated twice and then the painter sprayed the car with primer and base/clear coat, Arrival Blue 2004 GM metalic (All Sherman Williams paint). Any thoughts on the paint thickness and what could happen if it is above the recomended 10 mils max thickness?
http://community.webshots.com/user/lhbarrett
http://community.webshots.com/user/lhbarrett
