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trnslt2002

New Member
Joined
Apr 29, 2004
Messages
38
I am going insane with this car. It is an 85 gn. Anyway here are my readings from t-link. My IAC is between 70-85, Intergrator 90-100, Has 0 degrees retard, the 02 volts change erratically from 100-850, MAF is 8-10, block learn is 105 steady, and 02 counts are 1-4. I know most if not all these #'s are wrong. I don't know how to set the iac. I can't get it to stay at a good idle and won't stay under 1000 rpm's. It has a comp cam with .459 lift for both and 212 duration. After I rebuilt the engine I am having all these problems. I am also running 42.5 lb injectors. The car will hesitate severly when the gas is hit, but than jump up. As long as it is in high rpm it revs great. I can't take it down the street because it wants to die with any load put on. Some1 please help because I got a ton of money in this thing. :mad: :(
 
Your 02s are normal. They're supposed to jump like that except when your at or near WOT. I set my TPS a little different than most. I make sure the IAC is at 0 and then use the set screw to manually turn the idle to 700rpm then set TPS to it's correct value. With the IC and no BOV, it seems to be much more resistant to stalling when lifting off the gas quickly while in boost. The computer is pulling a lot of fuel. What's your fuel pressure and what chip are you running for your injectors? What's your TPS voltage?

8-10gms/sec is about right on the MAF for idle.

As for your idle, is the IAC clean? Do you happen to have an intercooler? Vacuum leak (I doubt it if the computer is pulling fuel).

Other things it could be since it's a new motor, is the cam sensor 180 out? Is the cam installed correctly?
 
I am using a casper 7 stage chip and running around 40 lbs fuel pressure. In my manual it says that normal for MAF is like 4-7. Whatever I do, I cannot get the iac down below 75. How do I take it out and check it? My TPS is like .44 so I know that it is right. It definatley seems to be pulling alot of fuel because I can smeel how rich its running.
 
IAC

IAC might just need cleaned. It's located on driver's side under the throttle body.
Unplug connector and screw it out.Use some throttle body cleaner on it .It is a rod,spring with a tapered plunger. Be careful removing and installing the housing is plastic and will break.Should also have a
paper gasket.Outside chance the gasket is missing or the IAC is loose.
HTH
 
I guess everyone missed that most of his Values he gave are Way off
that will pretty much cause every condition hes dealing with

your IAC"S are WAY high, also your TPS might not be set right. Check them on the t-link.

your Maf should be lower. say 6-7

Most of this is caused by your IAC being too high, it will make yer car idle high as helll and make your Maf readings higher then usuall.

My car Idles at 750-800

The screw to set the IAC is on side of the throttle body facing the windshield and facing up, usually has a lil grey cap on top of it.
If you turn the screw CLOCKWISE your iac counts will LOWER,

Try to get your IAC readings down to around 30-40

ALSO when you set this IAC value
make sure your car is atleast 150 degrees. ALSO put yer foot on the brake and put the CAr in Gear, THEN check your IAC values.
Give it time for the IAcC value to drop till it comes to 1 constant number

With every couple turns of the screw, turn the key off an restart your car, then re-check those IAc numbers.
Believe me, it will change.

Also remember when adjusting the IAC screw it will change the values of your TPs sensor (located on the other side)

Try to get your tps sensor to .42 volts at idle, and make sure it goes over 4.6 at WOT

DOing those steps will also bring your Maf readings down to where they should be.
that should definately fix yer idle issues.
ANd likely take away that Tip-In stumble
i know it cured mine !

O2s are gunna bounce like crazy they never stay at 1 number, They are only really USed at WOT to see if your rich or lean

BLMs and INT are totally something else, to be tackled after u adjust yer IAc and TPS

you'll be running smoothe in no time
if yer still running choppy after all that tuning, u might have a vacuum leak
Lets us know how it goes :D
 
The MAF #s are high because his idle is high. I'm sure the MAF is fine. Whether or not the IAC #s are off or not, that won't cause the rich condition.

The IAC is probably set right since it's calling for more air and the idle is high.
To bring the IAC to 0, you have to ground the top right two terminals on the ALDL with the key on. Then unplug the IAC and unground the ALDL. Set the base idle using the screw with the IAC unplugged.

02s are not used by the computer at WOT, only at idle, part throttle, and non PE mode.

The computer can call in a high idle for a lot of reasons. Bad coolant temp sensor, low alternator voltage, etc.
 
Thank you guys for all the info. I am going to try to play with the iac today and hopefully that helps. As for a voltage problem, that could be true because my battery keeps going dead. The t-link says the battery voltage is fine and when it is running 14 and some odd volts are coming from the back of the alternator. Maybe I have a short somewhere? That would be great because I wouldn't even know where to look. Thanks for the help and I will continue to follow up with my progress. THANX
 
I took apart the iac and it was horrible. I cleaned it up and screwed the post all the way in because I didn't know where to put it. I played with it and got it to 0 and about 43 in drive, but it is idling at 1000-1150. The MAF is at 9 steady and I also noticed the 3rd gear was on. Is that supposed to be like that? It also still hesitates at throttle but not as much. Another thing is I broke my fuel gauge and can't remember which way to turn the regulator screw to decrease the pressure. The block learn is 108 steady so I know it is running rich. I am ordering the new gauge today. I know we are getting close...........
 
I believe counter-clockwise is lowering fuel pressure
try for around #38 line off.

ya did get the chip for the 42.5 injectors?? i would assume so .....

will the IAC go lower then 42 in gear?
0trying gettin it down to 30.....

Maybe ya can swap out the iac motor or maybe get 1 from autozone, they always take everything back haha


WHen your BLm's are lower then 128, it means the ECm is adding fuel to the system, because there is un-metered air in the system.

Do a search of "low Blms" and you will get alot of ideas on what could cause them
 
thanx for the info ninja. I read in my maunal that lower than 128 means that the pulse of the injector is decreased due to a rich condition. I did order my chip for 42.5 even though I had to send the first one back because it was bad.
 
Well I got my fuel guage fixed and now have it running at 40 lbs. I also got the iac to be at 0 and 30 in drive. Now the car seems to be idling better but when I listen to the exhaust, it is stumbling. I took it around the block and it stumbles when I first hit the gas but if it stays running it revs up fine after that. It also seems to be running hot which is weird because I got 160 degree thermastat. I am not so much worried about that as I am the stumbling. I am going to change all the vacuum hoses tommorow. I am also thinking of changing the spark plug wires because that is about the last thing I have not changed. I hope that works because I don't know where to go from here.
 
Since my last posting I have thought of a couple things. I have headers from poston and the pipe that connects to the turbo from ATR. That don't exactly match that well but I had to change because my original gasket was broke. When installing I noticed it took a little power to pull in and seal the gap at the turbo. Maybe this is causing a leak? I sprayed it with WD-40 and didn't notice any change in idle. I also read in my manual that the iac should be at like 20 at idle. Is this true. The last think is now that I have my iac at 0 on idle the maf is 12-13 and it is idling even higher. I have sooooooo much money in this thing and I can't even drive it. SOMEBODY....ANYBODY PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!
 
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